WLToys 144001 Dethroned as my favorite small RC. Xinlehong Toys Q903 1/16th Brushless new KING Rear LEDs added. Has front and rear ones now.

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Ah. But im looking more into the standart plastic one from the lc racing emb because its going to cost me more by buying all of thealluminum pieces togueter 6usd for the set of spindles vs 9usd for 2 metal spindles or 21$ for 6 spindles made of alluminum and with all of that alluminum the pins might start to bend or snap the A arms at that point
I will leave rc mart a few days if they don't resupply im going for alliexpress and get the set of spindle 2 sets so 12 plastic spindles for 18cad$ and 9$Cad shipping
Don't forget to get the 4x8x3 bearings, might as well buy a 10 pack and have 2 spares.
 
Might get a kit of bearings instead for everything how do you get the diff bearigs out they must have lockite the crap of those screws holding the diff cups. The spindles are gone from alliexpress now
Don't forget to get the 4x8x3 bearings, might as well buy a 10 pack and have 2 spares.
I was thinking using my father tools to sand the bearings holes to make them deeper and larger for the emb racing bearings to fit because its getting ridiculous to get those spindles
Nvm for the bearings will get them seperatly sizes
I can get all the sizes of bearings from fast eddy but i want the wheel hubs bearing and the ones in the differentials
 
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Might get a kit of bearings instead for everything how do you get the diff bearigs out they must have lockite the crap of those screws holding the diff cups. The spindles are gone from alliexpress now

I was thinking using my father tools to sand the bearings holes to make them deeper and larger for the emb racing bearings to fit because its getting ridiculous to get those spindles
Nvm for the bearings will get them seperatly sizes
I can get all the sizes of bearings from fast eddy but i want the wheel hubs bearing and the ones in the differentials
In all honesty I wouldn't bother putting any money into that car, just drive it until something breaks and toss it in the trash, like you would with a Hyundai Accent, Toyota Yaris or Nissan Versa.
 
In all honesty I wouldn't bother putting any money into that car, just drive it until something breaks and toss it in the trash, like you would with a Hyundai Accent, Toyota Yaris or Nissan Versa.
Heh i cant do that or im going to feel like i wasted 100$ again
Its not a toy grade rc but the parts is the issue atm idk why tf they made the bearing smaller and impossible to get from someone esle than their website
I received the 2s lipo i ordered for it today too
 
@slick2500 have you tired the lc racing arms on the wltoys 144001? I busted the plastic pin holders on the left arms after hiting a post. Bended the brace in the rear. Those wltoys spacer seems pretty low quality. I can buy the lc racing arms and fittings for 8$ or the better grade alluminum braces and fittings for 15$
 
@slick2500 have you tired the lc racing arms on the wltoys 144001? I busted the plastic pin holders on the left arms after hiting a post. Bended the brace in the rear. Those wltoys spacer seems pretty low quality. I can buy the lc racing arms and fittings for 8$ or the better grade alluminum braces and fittings for 15$
I have not, but they look like they should fit, I could check for ya but I might not be able to get to it until later tonight. If you do get the LC Racing arms I would opt for the heavy duty a arms instead of the standard ones they are thicker.
Rip lipo 0.04ish differance between both cells my luck cant get any better..
Was that out of the box, after a run or after a charge?
 
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I have not, but they look like they should fit, I could check for ya but I might not be able to get to it until later tonight. If you do get the LC Racing arms I would opt for the heavy duty a arms instead of the standard ones they are thicker.

Was that out of the box, after a run or after a charge?
They have heavy duty arms?
 
Heh i cant do that or im going to feel like i wasted 100$ again
Its not a toy grade rc but the parts is the issue atm idk why tf they made the bearing smaller and impossible to get from someone esle than their website
I received the 2s lipo i ordered for it today too
Well you did waste $100 because you bought it, now to fix everything that is wrong with it you will spend more money than you would have spent just starting with an Lc Racing EMB-1 to begin with.
 
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I have not, but they look like they should fit, I could check for ya but I might not be able to get to it until later tonight. If you do get the LC Racing arms I would opt for the heavy duty a arms instead of the standard ones they are thicker.

Was that out of the box, after a run or after a charge?
After a charge i ran it today cells after run 3.8v 3.8v so its okay seller did he is going to send me a new one
Well you did waste $100 because you bought it, now to fix everything that is wrong with it you will spend more money than you would have spent just starting with an Lc Racing EMB-1 to begin with.
Yeah but i mean its not falling apart by its own its me hiting stuff with it at quite high speed for its size
Im not going to buy anything who is not brushless next time i wanted something to remplace the crappy a959 i had that thing was absolute poop out of the box
 
Oh okay but if its thicker its going to act more like a solid than plastic. Or its made of a softer plastic material?
Oof my hobbyshop has the hub bearings for 2.50$ for set of 2 great
 
Oh okay but if its thicker its going to act more like a solid than plastic. Or its made of a softer plastic material?
Oof my hobbyshop has the hub bearings for 2.50$ for set of 2 great
They are thicker and harder so they don't flex as much as the standard Lc Racing ones do, the standard Lc Racing arms don't even flex as much as the WL Toys arms do.
 
They are thicker and harder so they don't flex as much as the standard Lc Racing ones do, the standard Lc Racing arms don't even flex as much as the WL Toys arms do.
THe plastic pin holders of the arms are what is going to break than the arm snaping. Like mine did arm pin are fine only the plastic thing is completely chewed up
 
THe plastic pin holders of the arms are what is going to break than the arm snaping. Like mine did arm pin are fine only the plastic thing is completely chewed up
Oh the little pill inserts for the hinge pins? I ruined one once, I was trying to remove it from the hinge pin brace because the manual showed them going in in the wrong direction, one of them was supposed to be upside down instead of right side up.
 
Oh the little pill inserts for the hinge pins? I ruined one once, I was trying to remove it from the hinge pin brace because the manual showed them going in in the wrong direction, one of them was supposed to be upside down instead of right side up.
In mine i was able to but it upside down or up i have put it upside down for now because the failure point was in the other side but the spacer has an oval shape it can go in both ways
I superglued the whole thing found the plastic who broke its holding quite nicely now
and for the lipo the seller is sending me a new one he was quick. But maybe the lipo is fine and just needs a break in the cells were balanced after the run going to try again tomorrow and get them under 3.6v and see if they get unbalanced
 
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