Limitless XLX2 Limitless placement?

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Jerold

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
I'm wondering if anyone has done this and looking for some thoughts or feedback.

I'm in the midst of building a limited. The power will come from a Castle 1717 1650 with a Castle XLX2 ESC. Since the XLX2 is the size of a dishwasher, it doesn't fit in the allocated space an you need to make some adjustments. My current plan is to keep both battery trays and put the ESC on the center brace.

While I'm waiting on the center brace, and other parts, to arrive I'm working on the other bits I and noticed that I might be able to place the ESC where the gigantic receiver box is and put the receiver on the center brace.

Not my rig below, I only used it for a visual. I would need separate servo mount and trim down the receiver box or make one to fit on the brace.
1645208423860.png
 
XLX2 should be on the Center T2T brace. How many do this.
Yeah it is rather large. But in Charge.:ROFLMAO:
I too prefer side by side saddled lipos. Stock motor config.(y)

Why do you have a double/dual motor mount? Is that what I see there??? Maybe I am wrong??
If so, this limits Rx box/servo space if only running a single motor.:unsure:
 
XLX2 should be on the Center T2T brace. How many do this.
Yeah it is rather large. But in Charge.:ROFLMAO:
I too prefer side by side saddled lipos. Stock motor config.(y)

Why do you have a double/dual motor mount? Is that what I see there??? Maybe I am wrong??
If so, this limits Rx box/servo space if only running a single motor.:unsure:
I have a single 1717 in the stock location. The picture is from the website that sells the center brace.

This is the XLX2 over the "standard" position. Picture courtesy of Raz Shifrin. If you place it there you need to cut the battery tray and use a short (< 157mm) battery, which limits the choices. Alternatly, I can stack both batteries on the driver's left side.
1645211725469.png

You can see Raz's Video of his placement.
 
I know exactly what you are referring to. How Raz trims the right hand tray. Many do this. Watch all his videos.
Lipo choice does becomes limited that way.
Maybe you tried this............. orient the ESC the other way, less tray trimming involved???
I think its best to get T2T ESC brace perhaps. Mounting the ESC at the center. Keep the saddles intact. Better overall chassis balance. IDK.
 
Yeah my infraction i may cut that whole box down flat and run it sideways there. I'll relocate the receiver box to somewhere else if i run one, i may just strap the receiver down somewhere since it's staying a parking lot basher. If it's wet i just won't run it. I'm keeping the dual battery trays so i can run 8s on mine.
 
Yeah my infraction i may cut that whole box down flat and run it sideways there. I'll relocate the receiver box to somewhere else if i run one, i may just strap the receiver down somewhere since it's staying a parking lot basher. If it's wet i just won't run it. I'm keeping the dual battery trays so i can run 8s on mine.
Same here, with a rig like this, a Rx box is not imperative. Rx located exposed anywhere feasible is just fine. I have several rigs here with exposed Rx's. A Rx box is really optional IMHO. Depending if you run in the wet or not. This rig I say not running in the wet anyway. Would be a sin to do that anyway. Many Rx's are even Water Resistant to some minor extent. As a rule I use silicone conformal coating on the Rx's PCB for an Oz. of prevention whether in a Rx box or not.. FWIW.
 
Here’s a side by side of the Felony/V2 Infraction and Limitless/V1 Infraction
View attachment 201064
Ordered the newer receiver box. I have the carbon fiber skirts too so I may see if I can fit it in there and stick out a little over the skirt. If not it’s all going but the servo mount and I’ll find a new home for the receiver
 
Ordered the newer receiver box. I have the carbon fiber skirts too so I may see if I can fit it in there and stick out a little over the skirt. If not it’s all going but the servo mount and I’ll find a new home for the receiver
I eyeballed it and it will fit ; however, the servo arm is close to the ESC wires and they would need to be extra long and tied out of the way some where. Possibly even some sort of protection?

The other thing it needs is a flat surface. So I was thinking shave the receiver box flat and mount the ESC to that. We might also be able to space the servo higher?

It needs some fiddling. But I think for now the ESC is going on the T2T support to get it on the road.
 
I eyeballed it and it will fit ; however, the servo arm is close to the ESC wires and they would need to be extra long and tied out of the way some where. Possibly even some sort of protection?

The other thing it needs is a flat surface. So I was thinking shave the receiver box flat and mount the ESC to that. We might also be able to space the servo higher?

It needs some fiddling. But I think for now the ESC is going on the T2T support to get it on the road.
I didn’t want to put it up there on mine or I’ll have to cut the body. Trying to avoid the chopping block on it. The chassis is fair game though 😂
 
I know this thread was created when there was only the OG...but, now that the V2 is released, is supposed to be "ready" for an XLX2, and people have run into 'problems' fitting the XLX2 (more accurately, getting the stock body to fit once the XLX2 is in place. It's time to *bump* this thread.

Granted, I am still fairly new to speed run vehicles, and even newer to Arrma...but, I thought I would share what I came up with for modding the electronics tray, so as to allow the XLX2 to be placed lower. I will (eventually) get a machined servo mount, which will either eliminate the receiver box all together, or be replaced with a smaller receiver box (such as one from Traxxas)...but, until then, I decided to come up with an 'alternate' solution.

As can easily be seen in the first photo, I completely removed the ESC tray from the rest of the electronics tray. It wasn't until after I had cut off the ESC tray, that I noticed a notch of 'missing' plastic on the servo mount section, which is normally "strengthened" by the ESC tray. In removing the ESC tray section, I inadvertently weakened the servo mount section...but, I came up with a 'solution' for that, as well. If you look in the lower left quadrant of the first photo, you will notice a 45° angle corner piece missing from the ESC tray section. After cutting off that section of the ESC tray, I cut down that piece, and, using a little CA glue, I used it to reinforce the "weakened" area of the servo mount (see second photo).

Until I can afford to order the machined servo mount, and the other items I'll be ordering from that same merchant, this solution should (I'm hoping) prove "worthy". Besides, as I'll be doing all initial testing on 4S & 6S, I'm figuring I shouldn't have to worry too much. Now, I just need to figure out what servo specs I should be looking to get. I know it doesn't need to be a 'fast' servo...I'm wondering about the torque (this is only my 2nd "large-scale" land vehicle, the other being my X-MAXX).

20220918_105332.jpg


20220918_111641.jpg
 
I know this thread was created when there was only the OG...but, now that the V2 is released, is supposed to be "ready" for an XLX2, and people have run into 'problems' fitting the XLX2 (more accurately, getting the stock body to fit once the XLX2 is in place. It's time to *bump* this thread.

Granted, I am still fairly new to speed run vehicles, and even newer to Arrma...but, I thought I would share what I came up with for modding the electronics tray, so as to allow the XLX2 to be placed lower. I will (eventually) get a machined servo mount, which will either eliminate the receiver box all together, or be replaced with a smaller receiver box (such as one from Traxxas)...but, until then, I decided to come up with an 'alternate' solution.

As can easily be seen in the first photo, I completely removed the ESC tray from the rest of the electronics tray. It wasn't until after I had cut off the ESC tray, that I noticed a notch of 'missing' plastic on the servo mount section, which is normally "strengthened" by the ESC tray. In removing the ESC tray section, I inadvertently weakened the servo mount section...but, I came up with a 'solution' for that, as well. If you look in the lower left quadrant of the first photo, you will notice a 45° angle corner piece missing from the ESC tray section. After cutting off that section of the ESC tray, I cut down that piece, and, using a little CA glue, I used it to reinforce the "weakened" area of the servo mount (see second photo).

Until I can afford to order the machined servo mount, and the other items I'll be ordering from that same merchant, this solution should (I'm hoping) prove "worthy". Besides, as I'll be doing all initial testing on 4S & 6S, I'm figuring I shouldn't have to worry too much. Now, I just need to figure out what servo specs I should be looking to get. I know it doesn't need to be a 'fast' servo...I'm wondering about the torque (this is only my 2nd "large-scale" land vehicle, the other being my X-MAXX).

View attachment 244286

View attachment 244287
You might be able to use the Mojave EXB servo mount.
 
I know this thread was created when there was only the OG...but, now that the V2 is released, is supposed to be "ready" for an XLX2, and people have run into 'problems' fitting the XLX2 (more accurately, getting the stock body to fit once the XLX2 is in place. It's time to *bump* this thread.

Granted, I am still fairly new to speed run vehicles, and even newer to Arrma...but, I thought I would share what I came up with for modding the electronics tray, so as to allow the XLX2 to be placed lower. I will (eventually) get a machined servo mount, which will either eliminate the receiver box all together, or be replaced with a smaller receiver box (such as one from Traxxas)...but, until then, I decided to come up with an 'alternate' solution.

As can easily be seen in the first photo, I completely removed the ESC tray from the rest of the electronics tray. It wasn't until after I had cut off the ESC tray, that I noticed a notch of 'missing' plastic on the servo mount section, which is normally "strengthened" by the ESC tray. In removing the ESC tray section, I inadvertently weakened the servo mount section...but, I came up with a 'solution' for that, as well. If you look in the lower left quadrant of the first photo, you will notice a 45° angle corner piece missing from the ESC tray section. After cutting off that section of the ESC tray, I cut down that piece, and, using a little CA glue, I used it to reinforce the "weakened" area of the servo mount (see second photo).

Until I can afford to order the machined servo mount, and the other items I'll be ordering from that same merchant, this solution should (I'm hoping) prove "worthy". Besides, as I'll be doing all initial testing on 4S & 6S, I'm figuring I shouldn't have to worry too much. Now, I just need to figure out what servo specs I should be looking to get. I know it doesn't need to be a 'fast' servo...I'm wondering about the torque (this is only my 2nd "large-scale" land vehicle, the other being my X-MAXX).

View attachment 244286

View attachment 244287
That works. I did that at first as well. Later I separated off the electronics box so I could move it around and even the two screws the servo was held down by was adequate.

On the topic of of torque, you definitely want as much torque as you can get in your steering servo. 25kg is adequate, 35kg is good, 45kg and up is optimal. Obviously the faster you go, the stronger you want the servo to be.
 
That works. I did that at first as well. Later I separated off the electronics box so I could move it around and even the two screws the servo was held down by was adequate.

On the topic of of torque, you definitely want as much torque as you can get in your steering servo. 25kg is adequate, 35kg is good, 45kg and up is optimal. Obviously the faster you go, the stronger you want the servo to be.
Work a machined servo mount, I'm 110% certain the 2-screw chassis mounting will be strong enough...as for mounting the servo to the servo mount, I try to always use 4 screws (except, obviously, in vehicles where such isn't possible).

As for torque/speed, sounds just like race vehicles. Will definitely get something in the 40-45kg range...thanx. 🤙🏼
 
Work a machined servo mount, I'm 110% certain the 2-screw chassis mounting will be strong enough...as for mounting the servo to the servo mount, I try to always use 4 screws (except, obviously, in vehicles where such isn't possible).

As for torque/speed, sounds just like race vehicles. Will definitely get something in the 40-45kg range...thanx. 🤙🏼
Sorry, I should have been more specific. I didn't mean the four screws that hold the servo to the mount. I meant the screws that hold the servo mount to the chassis. If you separate the electronics box from the servo mount as I did, only two screws remain to hold the servo mount to the chassis. I also always use four screws for the servo itself. Sorry for the confusion :)
 
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