Vorteks XXL granite/vorteks/typhon thing

[StephenSchandelmayer]

So I decided to make a LWB composite chassis even longer. I currently had the LWB on my truck and had a spare SWB on hand. I cut a 4 inch piece from the center of the SWB and then cut the LWB in half. I used aluminum sheets on the top and the bottom of the truck with nuts and bolts to secure all 3 pieces of the chassis together to make one huge XXL chassis. My favorite part of it though is the center driveshaft. I took 2 of the SWB shafts and took the spring out of one of them and then I slightly trimmed the spring on the second. I used one of the red splined connectors to connect the two in the middle. I also used 2 of the high speed bearing supports in order for it to stay nice and rigid. I'm using vorteks rear shocks on the front, granite rear shocks on the rear, vorteks rear tower and body mounts and granite front tower and body mounts, and granite front bumper. Also running typhon wing and arms.

I for sure added some weight with the aluminum sheets but I knew that was going to be part of it. Haven't even run it yet but I'm very excited to! BLX185 Esc, hobbystar 4074 2250 kv motor with 20 tooth pinion, 4s battery, full arrma metal diffs, M2C motor mount, metal spur, HR yolk on the rear diff, HR hub extenders with Badlands.

I had a lot of fun putting it together, hopefully it runs good! Kraton 6s for size comparison.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Very interested to see how this runs. Great work on the rebuild bro

 

[AIan]

Love it, I had a similar thought a couple times but slightly different, I wanted to do a carbon fiber chassis with the diffs on each end of it

 

[SrC]

Making the Chassis that long will affect your steering ability. At least in the dirt and rough stuff. It will handle less agile.
For speed running on pavement, will add more directional straight line stability.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Really great thinking here!
I did something similar with the Traxxas 4tec 2.0

I could see @vwturbowolf making a 1/7 speed runner this way

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

Love it, I had a similar thought a couple times but slightly different, I wanted to do a carbon fiber chassis with the diffs on each end of it

Yeah that would be a better option for sure and probably easier. I don't think I had it perfectly straight, meaning the 3 different chassis pieces weren't cut perfectly, so I believe it was messing with the straight line running because it always wanted to tweak one way no matter how many things I tried to change. But off road it was a blast, it drifted so nice because of that length lol it was awesome. And of course it would never wheelie it would just put the power down which was great.

Really great thinking here!
I did something similar with the Traxxas 4tec 2.0

I could see @vwturbowolf making a 1/7 speed runner this way

Thank you sir! And yes yes that would be awesome. I have since taken it apart but I might try again because it was a lot of fun to build

 

[FJC_GUY]

Making the Chassis that long will affect your steering ability. At least in the dirt and rough stuff. It will handle less agile.
For speed running on pavement, will add more directional straight line stability.

In dirt it will depend on driving style. If sliding corners is your thing a longer wheelbase usually lessens snap oversteer and makes drifts more controllable.

 

[King blitz]

So I decided to make a LWB composite chassis even longer. I currently had the LWB on my truck and had a spare SWB on hand. I cut a 4 inch piece from the center of the SWB and then cut the LWB in half. I used aluminum sheets on the top and the bottom of the truck with nuts and bolts to secure all 3 pieces of the chassis together to make one huge XXL chassis. My favorite part of it though is the center driveshaft. I took 2 of the SWB shafts and took the spring out of one of them and then I slightly trimmed the spring on the second. I used one of the red splined connectors to connect the two in the middle. I also used 2 of the high speed bearing supports in order for it to stay nice and rigid. I'm using vorteks rear shocks on the front, granite rear shocks on the rear, vorteks rear tower and body mounts and granite front tower and body mounts, and granite front bumper. Also running typhon wing and arms.

I for sure added some weight with the aluminum sheets but I knew that was going to be part of it. Haven't even run it yet but I'm very excited to! BLX185 Esc, hobbystar 4074 2250 kv motor with 20 tooth pinion, 4s battery, full arrma metal diffs, M2C motor mount, metal spur, HR yolk on the rear diff, HR hub extenders with Badlands.

I had a lot of fun putting it together, hopefully it runs good! Kraton 6s for size comparison.
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Wtf. This is exactly what I've been searching for .just didn't know anyone that had attempted to ths.thats awesome.thank you for explaining what you did..I had a few ideas just didn't know which to go with.. cutting my chassis in half allows me to stretch as much as I want .to a certain extent.ill have to buy another big rock chassis then..I already ordered another big rock cover but not sure yet if I want to extend bed size or add another xtra cab.like I been saying before.i have not yet seen anyone build a extended big rock yet.so which means if I do this correctly I'll be the first.this excited me more now...thank you for actually showing photos of how you did this ..I have plenty of aluminum sheets and not worried about xtra weight because the few peices I'll add for the middle is less weight than it I were to use a full aluminum chassis.ill need to figure a way to make or find a center brace for support.

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

Wtf. This is exactly what I've been searching for .just didn't know anyone that had attempted to ths.thats awesome.thank you for explaining what you did..I had a few ideas just didn't know which to go with.. cutting my chassis in half allows me to stretch as much as I want .to a certain extent.ill have to buy another big rock chassis then..I already ordered another big rock cover but not sure yet if I want to extend bed size or add another xtra cab.like I been saying before.i have not yet seen anyone build a extended big rock yet.so which means if I do this correctly I'll be the first.this excited me more now...thank you for actually showing photos of how you did this ..I have plenty of aluminum sheets and not worried about xtra weight because the few peices I'll add for the middle is less weight than it I were to use a full aluminum chassis.ill need to figure a way to make or find a center brace for support.

If I were to do it again I would use carbon sheets. The aluminum added an unnecessary amount of weight and honestly it was pretty solid on its own, it didnt really need a center brace because the center became so rigid with the sandwich of aluminum and plastic. A second attempt would certainly come out better but now that the new kraton 4s chassis is the longest I doubt I will do it again

 

[King blitz]

If I were to do it again I would use carbon sheets. The aluminum added an unnecessary amount of weight and honestly it was pretty solid on its own, it didnt really need a center brace because the center became so rigid with the sandwich of aluminum and plastic. A second attempt would certainly come out better but now that the new kraton 4s chassis is the longest I doubt I will do it again

That was my my other option . actually probably only option to use the kraton 4s chassis but I was told that if I did them I wouldn't be able to use the big rocks front and rear assembly.

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

That was my my other option . actually probably only option to use the kraton 4s chassis but I was told that if I did them I wouldn't be able to use the big rocks front and rear assembly.

Why wouldn't you be able to? I had a old kraton 4s and I put the new kraton 4s chassis on it. It is all the same stuff

 

[King blitz]

So I decided to make a LWB composite chassis even longer. I currently had the LWB on my truck and had a spare SWB on hand. I cut a 4 inch piece from the center of the SWB and then cut the LWB in half. I used aluminum sheets on the top and the bottom of the truck with nuts and bolts to secure all 3 pieces of the chassis together to make one huge XXL chassis. My favorite part of it though is the center driveshaft. I took 2 of the SWB shafts and took the spring out of one of them and then I slightly trimmed the spring on the second. I used one of the red splined connectors to connect the two in the middle. I also used 2 of the high speed bearing supports in order for it to stay nice and rigid. I'm using vorteks rear shocks on the front, granite rear shocks on the rear, vorteks rear tower and body mounts and granite front tower and body mounts, and granite front bumper. Also running typhon wing and arms.

I for sure added some weight with the aluminum sheets but I knew that was going to be part of it. Haven't even run it yet but I'm very excited to! BLX185 Esc, hobbystar 4074 2250 kv motor with 20 tooth pinion, 4s battery, full arrma metal diffs, M2C motor mount, metal spur, HR yolk on the rear diff, HR hub extenders with Badlands.

I had a lot of fun putting it together, hopefully it runs good! Kraton 6s for size comparison.
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From the front bumper to back bumper how long is it?

 

[King blitz]

So I decided to make a LWB composite chassis even longer. I currently had the LWB on my truck and had a spare SWB on hand. I cut a 4 inch piece from the center of the SWB and then cut the LWB in half. I used aluminum sheets on the top and the bottom of the truck with nuts and bolts to secure all 3 pieces of the chassis together to make one huge XXL chassis. My favorite part of it though is the center driveshaft. I took 2 of the SWB shafts and took the spring out of one of them and then I slightly trimmed the spring on the second. I used one of the red splined connectors to connect the two in the middle. I also used 2 of the high speed bearing supports in order for it to stay nice and rigid. I'm using vorteks rear shocks on the front, granite rear shocks on the rear, vorteks rear tower and body mounts and granite front tower and body mounts, and granite front bumper. Also running typhon wing and arms.

I for sure added some weight with the aluminum sheets but I knew that was going to be part of it. Haven't even run it yet but I'm very excited to! BLX185 Esc, hobbystar 4074 2250 kv motor with 20 tooth pinion, 4s battery, full arrma metal diffs, M2C motor mount, metal spur, HR yolk on the rear diff, HR hub extenders with Badlands.

I had a lot of fun putting it together, hopefully it runs good! Kraton 6s for size comparison.
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So on the center drive shaft you made how has it held up? And does high speeds effect it?

From the front bumper to back bumper how long is it?

You said you haven't ran it yet but I'm sure since you first posted this that you have so how is it ? So you like it ? And anything about it that you think shouldn't have been done differently?only asking because if you ran into any issues I definitely don't want to run into them also lol.thx

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

So on the center drive shaft you made how has it held up? And does high speeds effect it?

You said you haven't ran it yet but I'm sure since you first posted this that you have so how is it ? So you like it ? And anything about it that you think shouldn't have been done differently?only asking because if you ran into any issues I definitely don't want to run into them also lol.thx

I actually don't have the rig anymore. It got taken apart and sold. I never measured it but if you look at the pictures I lined up the rear arms and the front arms are about 2 maybe 3 inches longer than kraton. If I remember correctly it was basically the same length as a mojave/fireteam. But now this has sparked me to build another one because I have another 4s truck now and this is a cheap enough and very fun project. I never tested the speed of it but I'm sure it got up somewhere around 50 or 60 ish. I just would have / am going to do the plates different this time and be more mindful of cutting as straight as I can. I also had made it out of 3 pieces but this time it'll be 2

 

[King blitz]

Making the Chassis that long will affect your steering ability. At least in the dirt and rough stuff. It will handle less agile.
For speed running on pavement, will add more directional straight line stability.

Then this works for me since I'm a speed runner

I actually don't have the rig anymore. It got taken apart and sold. I never measured it but if you look at the pictures I lined up the rear arms and the front arms are about 2 maybe 3 inches longer than kraton. If I remember correctly it was basically the same length as a mojave/fireteam. But now this has sparked me to build another one because I have another 4s truck now and this is a cheap enough and very fun project. I never tested the speed of it but I'm sure it got up somewhere around 50 or 60 ish. I just would have / am going to do the plates different this time and be more mindful of cutting as straight as I can. I also had made it out of 3 pieces but this time it'll be 2

4s and only 50? That doesn't sound right .I'm sure you got more than that from 4s .. electronics in my Big Rock v3 3s blx is stock accept the servo and I get 53 on it with no electronic mods.so using 4 s I would think your mph would increase .unless you had it geared differently..so you say your going to use just 2 plates.im assuming one for the bottom and one inside? So after splitting the chassis in half and then you added a piece of another chassis in the middle now I can see why you went just enough so the motor wires would reach to the esc..if I wanted to add a bigger middle piece than you did then I'd have to bring in the esc closer to the motor.my esc now is in stock position which is on top of the receiver tray.i think I would be able to slide just the esc over a bit if I wanted to..but I like the length of what yours is at.do you remember how big of a peice you added to the middle? Like 5 inch or 4?

 

[King blitz]

Then this works for me since I'm a speed runner

4s and only 50? That doesn't sound right .I'm sure you got more than that from 4s .. electronics in my Big Rock v3 3s blx is stock accept the servo and I get 53 on it with no electronic mods.so using 4 s I would think your mph would increase .unless you had it geared differently..so you say your going to use just 2 plates.im assuming one for the bottom and one inside? So after splitting the chassis in half and then you added a piece of another chassis in the middle now I can see why you went just enough so the motor wires would reach to the esc..if I wanted to add a bigger middle piece than you did then I'd have to bring in the esc closer to the motor.my esc now is in stock position which is on top of the receiver tray.i think I would be able to slide just the esc over a bit if I wanted to..but I like the length of what yours is at.do you remember how big of a peice you added to the middle? Like 5 inch or 4?

Also your aluminum sheets look pretty thick.are they like 3mm or more? I believe I have 2mm might be even 3mm.and I have some thinner plates also that I think are 1mm but obviously that's not thick enough to brace the chassis together.importqnt question..do you think as I move up in motor size and esc would I get torque twist on the chassis because it was modified? I plan on going to 6 s eventually after I max out potential on the 3 s..but first I really want to push the limit and see what's the top speed I can get on 3s .I have tons of sizes of pinnion and spur gears and as of now my gears are stock .I will be changing them soon or at least the pinnion.and see where that takes me.but when I'm ready for 6 s the great thing about the 3s and 4s chassis is we can add battery trays to the sides when we use more than one battery.let me know what your view is.any feed back from you and any one is greatly appreciated

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

Then this works for me since I'm a speed runner

4s and only 50? That doesn't sound right .I'm sure you got more than that from 4s .. electronics in my Big Rock v3 3s blx is stock accept the servo and I get 53 on it with no electronic mods.so using 4 s I would think your mph would increase .unless you had it geared differently..so you say your going to use just 2 plates.im assuming one for the bottom and one inside? So after splitting the chassis in half and then you added a piece of another chassis in the middle now I can see why you went just enough so the motor wires would reach to the esc..if I wanted to add a bigger middle piece than you did then I'd have to bring in the esc closer to the motor.my esc now is in stock position which is on top of the receiver tray.i think I would be able to slide just the esc over a bit if I wanted to..but I like the length of what yours is at.do you remember how big of a peice you added to the middle? Like 5 inch or 4?

4 inches. So yeah you could figure out the length based on that. Big rock length plus 4 inches is what that truck came out to be

Also your aluminum sheets look pretty thick.are they like 3mm or more? I believe I have 2mm might be even 3mm.and I have some thinner plates also that I think are 1mm but obviously that's not thick enough to brace the chassis together.importqnt question..do you think as I move up in motor size and esc would I get torque twist on the chassis because it was modified? I plan on going to 6 s eventually after I max out potential on the 3 s..but first I really want to push the limit and see what's the top speed I can get on 3s .I have tons of sizes of pinnion and spur gears and as of now my gears are stock .I will be changing them soon or at least the pinnion.and see where that takes me.but when I'm ready for 6 s the great thing about the 3s and 4s chassis is we can add battery trays to the sides when we use more than one battery.let me know what your view is.any feed back from you and any one is greatly appreciated

Not sure how it's going to pan out for you with speed running. It's all a guessing game with this type on modification. Depends on how well you do it and then who knows after that lol