Yet another Limitless build...

[codenut33]

So... I've had this limitless for a bit, but recently started trying to figure out how to get it to some admirable top speed. I'm not looking to be in the record books, well, maybe just in my city, but I took some time the past month or so to start diving in. All I know is that I do NOT want to know how much i've put into this. I'd probably puke.

Here's the current build so far with links:
Scorched Parts Standard width carbon fiber chassis
Scorched Parts titanium rear skid plates
Scorched Parts billet aluminum bell crank arm
RamJam Racing titanium long spool set
YZX aluminum front and rear chassis braces
PPS Grublock motor mount combo
BSR Purples
GP5 diffs in front and rear
Carbon fiber front and rear shock towers.
Castle XLX2
Castle 2028 1100kv

I have the Castle 1721 2400kv coming in tomorrow, so i'll post pictures once I get that in, but here are pics with the squad above. I bought the setup to change it to a Felony, then switched my mind and decided to paint a Limitless body myself. Here's the whole process, haha!

Fresh Limitless w/ HobbyWing Max6 and 1650kv motor. EZ PZ setup. Just wanted to get something going. Fun... but I wanted something a bit more extreme.

Next to the Xmaxx

Decided to switch it to a Felony, because... I mean look at how mean that bastard looks. (sorry about the mess, running the other RCs at the track builds up a lot of dust and I always forget to shake them out before I bring them in)

Ended up getting the skid plate setup from RC Speed Monsters: https://rcspeedmonsters.com/ (but it was soon destroyed by a bad wreck, I was too sad to take pictures)

I wanted more power and read of a lot of good setups using the 2028 w/ GP5 differentials, so I got a 2028 and put it in with a XLX2. (later learned the original motor mount didn't fit, so I ordered the PPS one and woila, it's been amazing)

Yup.. way too big of a motor for my own good.

8s power, baby

I wanted to try out the SpazStix color changing paint, so I ordered a new Limitless body and gave it a whack. Latest pics after new body

The SpazStix color changing paint is amazing. I read up a few places to use the prep spray after washing it was warm water and soap, and very light dusting coats of the color changing paint. I wanted the windows clear so I masked those off - I love looking inside and seeing that amazing motor mount and motor.

Anyways, that's where i'm at currently. I ordered the 1721 and it should be here tomorrow, so I switched out the spool back to a 39t so I can use one of my smaller pinions to start (w/ a 4s battery to start, of course). I'll be running it this weekend hopefully, and should have some better numbers! Top speed so far is 98mph, but it's all because of roads. We'll see what happens!

 

[Jerold]

Great thread and I like the paint!

What's with the long spool? I'm thinking that the torque on the longer drive shafts looses some power. So a longer (stiffer) spool and shorter drive shafts is more efficient?

And the carbon fiber chassis, I don't think it would be as stiff as the stamped aluminum, how much does that flex?

 

[codenut33]

Great thread and I like the paint!

What's with the long spool? I'm thinking that the torque on the longer drive shafts looses some power. So a longer (stiffer) spool and shorter drive shafts is more efficient?

And the carbon fiber chassis, I don't think it would be as stiff as the stamped aluminum, how much does that flex?

Thanks! I appreciate it!
The long spool helps minimize vibrations when it's spinning like a bat out of hell. It keeps both dog bones short rather than a short and a long. The original long one was the first one to bend before I replaced it. The titanium is for strength for the crazy motors.

On the chassis I haven't noticed any flex in it yet, but I haven't done any real runs with it since i've installed it. I should know more after this weekend.

 

[codenut33]

It. has. arrived.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

+1 on the paint. I thought it was black.... Love how it lights up green!
I can tell you have done your research and know what you are doing so far. But don't be afraid to ask questions.

Make sure to run a tall spur with that 2400kv motor if you are running it on 8s. It operates best in the 50-65k rpm range and needs light gearing to get there.

Only one thing I saw from your pics that needs to go in the trash ASAP
Those tools will strip hexes all day

 

[Jerold]

Only one thing I saw from your pics that needs to go in the trash ASAP
Those tools will strip hexes all day

What is your recomendation? I've been using the EcopPower set. They seem to be pretty good on smaller scale stuff.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-5-piece-1-4-hex-nut-driver-set-ecp-3030/p1224978

 

[LibertyMKiii]

What is your recomendation? I've been using the EcopPower set. They seem to be pretty good on smaller scale stuff.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-5-piece-1-4-hex-nut-driver-set-ecp-3030/p1224978

Those may be good I have not tried them.

For 6s Arrma rigs I stand by MIP 2.0 and 2.5 hex wrenches.
I have been abusing mine for almost 4 years and they are still going strong.

 

[codenut33]

+1 on the paint. I thought it was black.... Love how it lights up green!
I can tell you have done your research and know what you are doing so far. But don't be afraid to ask questions.

Make sure to run a tall spur with that 2400kv motor if you are running it on 8s. It operates best in the 50-65k rpm range and needs light gearing to get there.

Only one thing I saw from your pics that needs to go in the trash ASAP
Those tools will strip hexes all day

Thanks! It's neat because I have a couple shots where it looks reddish-maroon. I was really surprised with how well it turned out.

So I went back to the 39t spur, 34t pinion and only running on 4s for the forseeable future. I'm switching out to QS8's this weekend so i'll feel much better about the amp draw.

HAHAHA! That was my first set of tools! I gave those to a buddy once I picked up the traxxas set with 1/4" ends. They've been nice, but i've noticed some crappier screws get stripped. I need to check out a better set.
I will also say that I bought a set of stainless steel screws for the limitless from the one dealer you see everywhere trying to sell screw kits and those have stripped really badly for me. Maybe it's just me.

 

[Speed/267]

Looking good I’m putting together the same power plant. I looked at center esc braces and ended up just putting it up front.

 

[Jerold]

I also have a complete set of metric and standard Craftsman mini wrenches. I drive's me crazy when I see someone grab the needle nose and use it on a nut. Then again I'm a bit put off by people using a lighter on heat shrink too. Maybe it's me.

Looking good I’m putting together the same power plant. I looked at center esc braces and ended up just putting it up front.

What is the blue thing behind the motor? It look like a little tiny fire bottle, you will need little tiny guy for it too.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

HAHAHA! That was my first set of tools! I gave those to a buddy once I picked up the traxxas set with 1/4" ends. They've been nice, but i've noticed some crappier screws get stripped. I need to check out a better set.
I will also say that I bought a set of stainless steel screws for the limitless from the one dealer you see everywhere trying to sell screw kits and those have stripped really badly for me. Maybe it's just me.

Stainless is softer metal and strips very easily. I wouldn't use any of those for RC cars unless its a basher that you want to keep screws from rusting.

You can get a complete screw set for an Arrma 6s car from the kit breakers like Jenny's RC for a good price. Another option is sets found on Amazon seem to be good. I think they are all about the same... I have not noticed a quality difference between a few brands I have tried. As long as they are black and metric sizes.

 

[Jerold]

Stainless is softer metal and strips very easily. I wouldn't use any of those for RC cars unless its a basher that you want to keep screws from rusting.

You can get a complete screw set for an Arrma 6s car from the kit breakers like Jenny's RC for a good price. Another option is sets found on Amazon seem to be good. I think they are all about the same... I have not noticed a quality difference between a few brands I have tried. As long as they are black and metric sizes.

On Jenny's RC, I see these, they are the factory screws taken from a build.
https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...raction-ar109011?_pos=25&_sid=bfab15397&_ss=r

I've personally seen the top motor screws strip out and heard of it in some videos too. It would seem better to replace them with something that has more meat on them. I have a PPS mount coming to solve that issue.

If you know the screw spec and want like a 100 of them, McMaster Carr is a great source. Example below. They also have Titanium, but you'd better get the right length because you will have a hard time cutting it.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/soc.../material~steel/socket-head-profile~standard/

Or if you have small HW store nearby (not Lowes or HD) they should have some small hardened screws too. I go to Outdoor Supply Hardware regularly and pick up tiny bits for the car.

 

[codenut33]

Stainless is softer metal and strips very easily. I wouldn't use any of those for RC cars unless its a basher that you want to keep screws from rusting.

You can get a complete screw set for an Arrma 6s car from the kit breakers like Jenny's RC for a good price. Another option is sets found on Amazon seem to be good. I think they are all about the same... I have not noticed a quality difference between a few brands I have tried. As long as they are black and metric sizes.

Ah, sounds good. I'm going to junk these. I don't like them much anyway.

I also have a complete set of metric and standard Craftsman mini wrenches. I drive's me crazy when I see someone grab the needle nose and use it on a nut. Then again I'm a bit put off by people using a lighter on heat shrink too. Maybe it's me.

What is the blue thing behind the motor? It look like a little tiny fire bottle, you will need little tiny guy for it too.

It looks like a tiny bottle of Nitrous
What do you guys think about rear wings? I've seen the active wings from StupidRC and those look neat, but I want to go CF rather than aluminum. I ain't putting no batwing on this one.

 

[Speed/267]

I also have a complete set of metric and standard Craftsman mini wrenches. I drive's me crazy when I see someone grab the needle nose and use it on a nut. Then again I'm a bit put off by people using a lighter on heat shrink too. Maybe it's me.

What is the blue thing behind the motor? It look like a little tiny fire bottle, you will need little tiny guy for it too.

That’s the “nitrous”

 

[limitless202+]

YES codenut build thread this is great
1721 is a monster.. hope to have a build thread of some of my other speedrun cars soon.
this is going to go 180mph all The way!!

 

[codenut33]

Time for some 4s test runs out front! Also, I think if you were able to go big enough pinion and spool that some of the center bar braces with ESC mount would work. I don't know if it's worth the effort or not. We'll see!

 

[limitless202+]

I wish you the utmost BEST of luck.

 

[codenut33]

Only felt comfortable with a couple little sprints, nothing too crazy. My road sucks. It ran fast though. Way fast. Saturday will be much, much better.

 

[codenut33]

The only thing I wish is that the 1721 had a longer motor shaft. If they're gonna go 8mm diameter might as well go the same length as the other 8mm motor shafts. My pinion grub screw is pretty close to the edge. I may swap around some of the spool spacers to see if I can make me feel better about running this thing.

Aren't the other 17** series 5mm diameter motor shaft? I feel like they should have went longer if they were going to go ahead and put a 8mm diameter shaft in. I bet it's probably something with the balancing of the motor. Just a guess, though.

 

[limitless202+]

Yea, it’s a 22mm shaft, they did it to get you used to speedrun motors, if you are ever to go bigger, that’s the shaft length
don't worry about the pinion being on the edge like that, I ran it like that for the longest time with the 2028, as log as your set screws are loctited in, you’ll be good to go.