So....let's just say for a moment that you've bought a Castle 1717 / MM8X because you're looking for a crazy overpowerd and bullet-proof setup. And then you're like, "hey, I'd like some of that sweet telemetry!" So you get the Castle Telemetry Link and try it with your existing Amazon radio. But then some (helpful!) forum people let you know that by "telemetry" this means either Spektrum XBus or Futaba S.Bus2. And since the high-end Spektrum stuff is kind of EOL you go with a Futaba 7PXR. Because hey, why shouldn't your radio cost more than your car, right?
But then you're like, "hey, it would be cool to change ESC settings with my phone instead of a laptop" and so you bust out the credit card and buy the Castle Bluetooth Adapter. Awesome! Now you can use that iPhone to do RC car stuff. So much winning.
But after ordering everything, you then read that the Bluetooth adapter doesn't work in series with the telemetry stuff:
But you're stubborn, and you want to make it all (kinda) work together. And your 3D printer is staring at you, daring you to fire up Solidworks and turn a $20 problem into a $200 solution. Because why, after all, are we in this silly hobby?
This is the answer to that question:
This is TPU cap that bolts to the top of the Kraton V4 transmitter box. This will not fit a V5, but it may fit earlier models. Inside it holds the Castle Bluetooth adapter (with the input on the left side of the rendering) and a simple 4-pin right-angle 2.54mm header that snaps into the TPU. This allows you to plug the ESC into the pins (for normal operation) or alternatively connect the ESC to the BT adapter (for programming) or to a laptop for data download. It's also tall enough to allow the Futaba antenna to be installed in the supplied hard plastic tube.
It's also designed to have enough room to house an electronic switch relay so that I can power my 6S direct-power steering servo, but turn this off when the rig is de-powered.
Here's what it looks like installed. Bolts right up to the existing electronics box:
The Aux wire is split off from the rest, so you can just plug the ESC into the BT adapter. The RX side of the BT harness is held securely out of the way by the cap.
This is pretty much the definition of edge-case design. But it works nicely for my overbuilt Kraton rig, and there's a Thingiverse page for this design. There's probably as many as two (2) other Kratons in the world that will benefit from this, but I'm all about the community so enjoy!
-hyp
But then you're like, "hey, it would be cool to change ESC settings with my phone instead of a laptop" and so you bust out the credit card and buy the Castle Bluetooth Adapter. Awesome! Now you can use that iPhone to do RC car stuff. So much winning.
But after ordering everything, you then read that the Bluetooth adapter doesn't work in series with the telemetry stuff:
But you're stubborn, and you want to make it all (kinda) work together. And your 3D printer is staring at you, daring you to fire up Solidworks and turn a $20 problem into a $200 solution. Because why, after all, are we in this silly hobby?
This is the answer to that question:
This is TPU cap that bolts to the top of the Kraton V4 transmitter box. This will not fit a V5, but it may fit earlier models. Inside it holds the Castle Bluetooth adapter (with the input on the left side of the rendering) and a simple 4-pin right-angle 2.54mm header that snaps into the TPU. This allows you to plug the ESC into the pins (for normal operation) or alternatively connect the ESC to the BT adapter (for programming) or to a laptop for data download. It's also tall enough to allow the Futaba antenna to be installed in the supplied hard plastic tube.
It's also designed to have enough room to house an electronic switch relay so that I can power my 6S direct-power steering servo, but turn this off when the rig is de-powered.
Here's what it looks like installed. Bolts right up to the existing electronics box:
The Aux wire is split off from the rest, so you can just plug the ESC into the BT adapter. The RX side of the BT harness is held securely out of the way by the cap.
This is pretty much the definition of edge-case design. But it works nicely for my overbuilt Kraton rig, and there's a Thingiverse page for this design. There's probably as many as two (2) other Kratons in the world that will benefit from this, but I'm all about the community so enjoy!
-hyp
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