Yomamma's Typhon Log

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yomamma219

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
So I figured I would start a "build log" of sorts for my Arrma Typhon. I don't currently have any specific goals for my Typhon since it is just my main basher now so this will more-so just be a spot to log the upgrades I've purchased and thoughts on the car and the upgrades and changes I make.

Figured a link to my 1 week post would be a good way to start.
1st Week

Things I've bought for the Typhon:

Two Helio 2S 5200mah 50c Batteries (run in series for 4S voltage)
Duratrax Banditos C2 Compound
RPM Rear skid plate
T-Bone Racing Front Bumper
T-Bone Racing Rear Mud Guard
RadioLink RC4GS w/ R6FG (tx/rx combo off Amazon)
Team Associated 100k wt diff fluid
Losi 30k wt diff fluid
Nitro Hobbies 4 LED light bar
Two Ovonics 5500mah 3S batteries with T-plug (sold in a two pack o)
T-plug to EC5 adapters
Dynamite Motor cooling fan/housing
Screen Door Patch set (mesh for body hole)
BQLZR Computer Fan Mesh (finer mesh for body hole)



Opened up the Center and rear diffs last night and dumped out as much of the fluid as I could and Replaced the center with the 100k and filled to about where the manual specifies which seemed to be just a tad more than was in there stock. Then I did the same to the rear diff using the 30k wt fluid. I lowered the ride height all the way and put my duratrax banditos back on. I noticed the banditos seemed a little less sticky than when I first used them. Today at lunch I was driving the car around the parking lot at work and it was performing much more how I would like it to. It was sliding a good bit more than before. Definitely no traction rolling problems like I had previously mentioned which probably has a lot to do with lowering the ride height (thanks @Wmorgan for the tips). I think the center diff fluid replacement was slightly noticeable too. The car seemed to "pull" itself around a bit less and felt like it had a bit more rear power bias. Not a ton but seemed noticeable. I will probably put the 30k wt fluid up front when I get a chance next and see how that feels.

So far so good with the RadioLink Tx/Rx as well. Haven't experienced any of the issues I was having with the stock radio and it definitely helps boost my confidence in driving the car more aggressively.

Cut a hole where the front windshield would exist on the body and installed a small stick on screen door patch on the front and back side of the hole (as a double layer). This was to try to get more airflow to the esc/motor. It seems to keep things a bit cooler and keeps large debris out but definitely seems to allow more fine dust into the car. Going to try to use a computer fan screen in addition to see if that helps.
 
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Updated parts list to include the nitro hobbies light bar, Ovonics batteries, and screen door mesh.
 
Updated parts list to include the nitro hobbies light bar, Ovonics batteries, and screen door mesh.
Where did you mount the Light bar and what width Light bar did you use ? I would love to see pics... Was thinking about adding lights to my Typhon also..
 
Where did you mount the Light bar and what width Light bar did you use ? I would love to see pics... Was thinking about adding lights to my Typhon also..

I mounted it to my T-bone racing bumper. its a "Nitro Hobbies NHX 4 LED....... "off ebay [ Link ]. Below are a few pics. They have a 3 LED one that is about the right size for on the roof of the car but I roll the car a lot so didnt think it would last up there and didnt want to worry about wires when putting on or removing my body. I have done plenty of nose dives and cartwheels with this one on the bumper those and it has held up well so I think its a bit more durable than I expected. My only real complaint is that there is not really a lens on the front of the LEDs so they just kinda "throw" light everywhere. They are quite bright for their size though. They make the car somewhat usable when its dark but I definitely am going much slower relative to when I have taken it out.


full


full
 
the first mod should be to get rid off the EC5 connector.
What's so bad about the connector? I think technically it's a IC5? The LHS shop I got it at swapped the batteries I bought with it too EC5 though. Thought it was nice that IC5 was backwards compatible like that.

If you want to hear something really mortifying: the Ovonics 3S 2 pack I later bought on Amazon only came with a t-plug. So I also got some t-plug to EC5 connectors. Fortunately, So far the T-plug has only come loose once on a hard landing.
 
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