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- Arrma RC's
- Granite
- Notorious
Title is my tl;Dr for this. I guess this is my intro too. I've searched through this forum for a long while now and thought it was finally time to join and say hi. You all have been a fantastic resource figuring crap out and learning how to do stuff and work arounds for all the nonsense we try to pull with our rigs.
Been in and out of the hobby for years decided to get back in when I saw the Outcast 4s on the YouTubes. Looked sick and Kevin Talbot beat the piss out of it and seemed to hold up better than my old Tmaxx ever did with way better performance. Electric stuff is crazy now.
So I start looking and it's sold out everywhere. Come to find its been "temporarily" discontinued, but there's still parts support.
So in the mean time I get a Granite 3s blx.
And a Voltage for my son. We have a skate park walking distance from my house as you can see in the pic didn't take long to bust the rod ends out of the shocks .
The little truck is a blast and I beat the ever living crap out of it. I get a spare set of shocks from jennys and gorilla glue the rod ends so as I pop them I can just rotate and that holds me for a while.
Destroyed the stock servo the first day. No surprise there I bought a spektrum 652 the same day as the truck in preparation of the inevitable.
But I still wanted an Outcast, with the giant wheels and the old school truck body so here comes the hop ups.
Arrma Outcast body posts
Outcast Wing
Outcast body and roll cage
Typhon rpm and arrma arms and linkages (was mix of what the hobby shop had)
HR 17mm hex extenders
Backflip LPs
12t Pinion
I thought the. Notorious "real steel" gimmick was awesome so I gave that a try. First time painting a body and I'm just going for it like Leroy Jenkins
I think the body turned out pretty good though for first try. Having gold underneath did NOT have the effect I was going for tho and I didn't scuff the body well enough or something because the paint job on the inside chipped as fast or faster than the outside which was disappointing. Definitely doing this color scheme again though, just normal next time instead of inside and out.
Only minimal tire rub when fully cranked, looked ridonkulous and performed too. I got my Uncle back into the hobby, he got a Maxx and with this set up in a drag race I literally vaulted over his truck I wish I had a video it was hilarious. Honestly performed pretty damn well..for a while.
Iost a wheel and a pin from one of the hr extensions..just literally fell off. Stole a pin from my old Tmaxx and added more loctite. Imo the hr exts look cool but I'm not a fan of anything that mounts with a screw on the same axis as the axel.
Then the slipper problems began. It just did not like the big wheels it would back out, I'd re tighten it. It would loosen again I'd tighten further and with lock tire. Oops too much now I'm losing driveshafts left and right. I ended up stripping one of the plates that hold the adjustment screw so:
Next upgrade
Arrma cvds
Slipper repair kit
Duratrac 6pack tires
Wallace Motorsports shims
The longer screw and locking nut that's technically for the V2 slipper helped alot with the self loosening. I watched alot of YouTube tutorials and poured over these forums for hours looking for a solution.
Ended up put the longer screw in and putting RED lock tire on the extra lock nut. I can always take a lighter to it when I need it apart and it finally stays.
This is also about the time I discovered that the spur in these 3s trucks has a habit of eating away at the gear housing and destroying the bearings in the motor. The shims came in a pack of 3 sizes I don't recall which combination I used but it would likely be different depending on how much wear you already have.
Just set em right in the hole where the bearing is supposed to go until you have enough clearance that the side of the spur can't touch the gear housing. Don't over do it though you can bind up you drive train with too many.
She ran like this for long while. I left the 13 tooth pinon as it kept everything cool and I didn't lose much top end.
And then tragedy struck, ran full blast up the quarter pipe and somehow still snagged the rail. Helicopter tumbled about 20 ft right onto pavement.
Turnbuckles bent 90° bent shock shafts (forget the rod ends ), cracked shock tower, snapped drive shaft a total mess.
About this time the "real steel" effect was really coming through and I realized I chose the wrong under color. Got replacements of everything broke off of Jennys aside from I upgraded to
ZD Shocks with 70wt oil
The swapping shocks and gorilla gluing was getting old at this point and ZD's we're like $30 well worth it. Even if they're not the color Id want. Nothing wrong with red white and blue just doesn't go with Purple or Green so good.
Took it out for a drive and it's CRUNCHY sounding. No power and the front is doing most/all the work.
My diffs are shot.
Ive seen the hr stuff and watched guys on YouTube put it together but .an is it alot of $$$
Then I saw arrma had their own version so I took mine apart and pulled the planetary gears out they're still good it's just the ring and crown that's destroyed.
Arrma hardened steel ring and imput gears plus the new case because the ring is on the other side now.
I've left the case plastic and opted to forgo the hr yokes for now. So far so good
You can see there's not much left
The assembled new metal diffs. In the center you can see the front and rear plastic ring gears the rear worn and chipped all over. Not enough grease on the stocks ones to say though. Not much diff fluid inside either.
I opted to keep the fluids stock with some
Team associated 10k front and rear
RednTacky for the outside.
Now I got a borderline bullet proof drive train I thought what the hell I'll make it 4s. Got a
Spektrum 150a esc
Off of Jennys and I'm still waiting on a 2400kv blx motor to pop up for cheap some where.
I didnt realize how much bigger the esc is but no problem I drilled a small hole in the corner of the radio box and switch to longer tapping thread screws and so far it's stayed no problem and. I water issues either .
Back in green. A mean 4s machine. I have a bunch of 3s packs and only 2 2s so it still primarily runs 3 but the power on 4 is just insane. The motor isnt made for it but I've written this motor off anyhow. I opted for the 6s speed control to keep everything cool and once the motor does go I'll get a 4s motor.
With a 13 tooth pinion tho even on 4s it really hasn't gotten that hot I can still do the finger test without getting burnt so in my book that's plenty cool.
The non belted six packs are great tires. They don't have as much offset as stock so you wouldn't want to run them with the stubby stock granite arms. They have a little more give in the grass than the stock tires so less traction rolling and more power slides which is always a good time.
The arrma cvds are not meant for the Typhon arms supposedly but they seem to do just fine for me and have never come apart at the center so far inspite of having less area covered than they should.
Just a little beast screaming and flying from one end to the other. Probably could have just gotten a full size 6s outcast for as much as I spent trying to make this truck into one, but ya know modifying and making them yours is part of the fun .
Been in and out of the hobby for years decided to get back in when I saw the Outcast 4s on the YouTubes. Looked sick and Kevin Talbot beat the piss out of it and seemed to hold up better than my old Tmaxx ever did with way better performance. Electric stuff is crazy now.
So I start looking and it's sold out everywhere. Come to find its been "temporarily" discontinued, but there's still parts support.
So in the mean time I get a Granite 3s blx.
And a Voltage for my son. We have a skate park walking distance from my house as you can see in the pic didn't take long to bust the rod ends out of the shocks .
The little truck is a blast and I beat the ever living crap out of it. I get a spare set of shocks from jennys and gorilla glue the rod ends so as I pop them I can just rotate and that holds me for a while.
Destroyed the stock servo the first day. No surprise there I bought a spektrum 652 the same day as the truck in preparation of the inevitable.
But I still wanted an Outcast, with the giant wheels and the old school truck body so here comes the hop ups.
Arrma Outcast body posts
Outcast Wing
Outcast body and roll cage
Typhon rpm and arrma arms and linkages (was mix of what the hobby shop had)
HR 17mm hex extenders
Backflip LPs
12t Pinion
I thought the. Notorious "real steel" gimmick was awesome so I gave that a try. First time painting a body and I'm just going for it like Leroy Jenkins
I think the body turned out pretty good though for first try. Having gold underneath did NOT have the effect I was going for tho and I didn't scuff the body well enough or something because the paint job on the inside chipped as fast or faster than the outside which was disappointing. Definitely doing this color scheme again though, just normal next time instead of inside and out.
Only minimal tire rub when fully cranked, looked ridonkulous and performed too. I got my Uncle back into the hobby, he got a Maxx and with this set up in a drag race I literally vaulted over his truck I wish I had a video it was hilarious. Honestly performed pretty damn well..for a while.
Iost a wheel and a pin from one of the hr extensions..just literally fell off. Stole a pin from my old Tmaxx and added more loctite. Imo the hr exts look cool but I'm not a fan of anything that mounts with a screw on the same axis as the axel.
Then the slipper problems began. It just did not like the big wheels it would back out, I'd re tighten it. It would loosen again I'd tighten further and with lock tire. Oops too much now I'm losing driveshafts left and right. I ended up stripping one of the plates that hold the adjustment screw so:
Next upgrade
Arrma cvds
Slipper repair kit
Duratrac 6pack tires
Wallace Motorsports shims
The longer screw and locking nut that's technically for the V2 slipper helped alot with the self loosening. I watched alot of YouTube tutorials and poured over these forums for hours looking for a solution.
Ended up put the longer screw in and putting RED lock tire on the extra lock nut. I can always take a lighter to it when I need it apart and it finally stays.
This is also about the time I discovered that the spur in these 3s trucks has a habit of eating away at the gear housing and destroying the bearings in the motor. The shims came in a pack of 3 sizes I don't recall which combination I used but it would likely be different depending on how much wear you already have.
Just set em right in the hole where the bearing is supposed to go until you have enough clearance that the side of the spur can't touch the gear housing. Don't over do it though you can bind up you drive train with too many.
She ran like this for long while. I left the 13 tooth pinon as it kept everything cool and I didn't lose much top end.
And then tragedy struck, ran full blast up the quarter pipe and somehow still snagged the rail. Helicopter tumbled about 20 ft right onto pavement.
Turnbuckles bent 90° bent shock shafts (forget the rod ends ), cracked shock tower, snapped drive shaft a total mess.
About this time the "real steel" effect was really coming through and I realized I chose the wrong under color. Got replacements of everything broke off of Jennys aside from I upgraded to
ZD Shocks with 70wt oil
The swapping shocks and gorilla gluing was getting old at this point and ZD's we're like $30 well worth it. Even if they're not the color Id want. Nothing wrong with red white and blue just doesn't go with Purple or Green so good.
Took it out for a drive and it's CRUNCHY sounding. No power and the front is doing most/all the work.
My diffs are shot.
Ive seen the hr stuff and watched guys on YouTube put it together but .an is it alot of $$$
Then I saw arrma had their own version so I took mine apart and pulled the planetary gears out they're still good it's just the ring and crown that's destroyed.
Arrma hardened steel ring and imput gears plus the new case because the ring is on the other side now.
I've left the case plastic and opted to forgo the hr yokes for now. So far so good
You can see there's not much left
The assembled new metal diffs. In the center you can see the front and rear plastic ring gears the rear worn and chipped all over. Not enough grease on the stocks ones to say though. Not much diff fluid inside either.
I opted to keep the fluids stock with some
Team associated 10k front and rear
RednTacky for the outside.
Now I got a borderline bullet proof drive train I thought what the hell I'll make it 4s. Got a
Spektrum 150a esc
Off of Jennys and I'm still waiting on a 2400kv blx motor to pop up for cheap some where.
I didnt realize how much bigger the esc is but no problem I drilled a small hole in the corner of the radio box and switch to longer tapping thread screws and so far it's stayed no problem and. I water issues either .
Back in green. A mean 4s machine. I have a bunch of 3s packs and only 2 2s so it still primarily runs 3 but the power on 4 is just insane. The motor isnt made for it but I've written this motor off anyhow. I opted for the 6s speed control to keep everything cool and once the motor does go I'll get a 4s motor.
With a 13 tooth pinion tho even on 4s it really hasn't gotten that hot I can still do the finger test without getting burnt so in my book that's plenty cool.
The non belted six packs are great tires. They don't have as much offset as stock so you wouldn't want to run them with the stubby stock granite arms. They have a little more give in the grass than the stock tires so less traction rolling and more power slides which is always a good time.
The arrma cvds are not meant for the Typhon arms supposedly but they seem to do just fine for me and have never come apart at the center so far inspite of having less area covered than they should.
Just a little beast screaming and flying from one end to the other. Probably could have just gotten a full size 6s outcast for as much as I spent trying to make this truck into one, but ya know modifying and making them yours is part of the fun .
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