You shoulda bought an Outcast - My 4s Granite Build Thread

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Notorious
Title is my tl;Dr for this. I guess this is my intro too. I've searched through this forum for a long while now and thought it was finally time to join and say hi. You all have been a fantastic resource figuring crap out and learning how to do stuff and work arounds for all the nonsense we try to pull with our rigs.

Been in and out of the hobby for years decided to get back in when I saw the Outcast 4s on the YouTubes. Looked sick and Kevin Talbot beat the piss out of it and seemed to hold up better than my old Tmaxx ever did with way better performance. Electric stuff is crazy now.

So I start looking and it's sold out everywhere. Come to find its been "temporarily" discontinued, but there's still parts support.

So in the mean time I get a Granite 3s blx.
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And a Voltage for my son. We have a skate park walking distance from my house as you can see in the pic didn't take long to bust the rod ends out of the shocks 😂.

The little truck is a blast and I beat the ever living crap out of it. I get a spare set of shocks from jennys and gorilla glue the rod ends so as I pop them I can just rotate and that holds me for a while.
Destroyed the stock servo the first day. No surprise there I bought a spektrum 652 the same day as the truck in preparation of the inevitable.

But I still wanted an Outcast, with the giant wheels and the old school truck body so here comes the hop ups.

Arrma Outcast body posts
Outcast Wing
Outcast body and roll cage
Typhon rpm and arrma arms and linkages (was mix of what the hobby shop had)
HR 17mm hex extenders
Backflip LPs
12t Pinion

I thought the. Notorious "real steel" gimmick was awesome so I gave that a try. First time painting a body and I'm just going for it like Leroy Jenkins 😂

I think the body turned out pretty good though for first try. Having gold underneath did NOT have the effect I was going for tho and I didn't scuff the body well enough or something because the paint job on the inside chipped as fast or faster than the outside which was disappointing. Definitely doing this color scheme again though, just normal next time instead of inside and out.
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Only minimal tire rub when fully cranked, looked ridonkulous and performed too. I got my Uncle back into the hobby, he got a Maxx and with this set up in a drag race I literally vaulted over his truck I wish I had a video it was hilarious. Honestly performed pretty damn well..for a while.

Iost a wheel and a pin from one of the hr extensions..just literally fell off. Stole a pin from my old Tmaxx and added more loctite. Imo the hr exts look cool but I'm not a fan of anything that mounts with a screw on the same axis as the axel.

Then the slipper problems began. It just did not like the big wheels it would back out, I'd re tighten it. It would loosen again I'd tighten further and with lock tire. Oops too much now I'm losing driveshafts left and right. I ended up stripping one of the plates that hold the adjustment screw so:

Next upgrade

Arrma cvds
Slipper repair kit
Duratrac 6pack tires
Wallace Motorsports shims


The longer screw and locking nut that's technically for the V2 slipper helped alot with the self loosening. I watched alot of YouTube tutorials and poured over these forums for hours looking for a solution.

Ended up put the longer screw in and putting RED lock tire on the extra lock nut. I can always take a lighter to it when I need it apart and it finally stays.

This is also about the time I discovered that the spur in these 3s trucks has a habit of eating away at the gear housing and destroying the bearings in the motor. The shims came in a pack of 3 sizes I don't recall which combination I used but it would likely be different depending on how much wear you already have.

Just set em right in the hole where the bearing is supposed to go until you have enough clearance that the side of the spur can't touch the gear housing. Don't over do it though you can bind up you drive train with too many.


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She ran like this for long while. I left the 13 tooth pinon as it kept everything cool and I didn't lose much top end.

And then tragedy struck, ran full blast up the quarter pipe and somehow still snagged the rail. Helicopter tumbled about 20 ft right onto pavement.

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Turnbuckles bent 90° bent shock shafts (forget the rod ends 😂), cracked shock tower, snapped drive shaft a total mess.

About this time the "real steel" effect was really coming through and I realized I chose the wrong under color. Got replacements of everything broke off of Jennys aside from I upgraded to

ZD Shocks with 70wt oil

The swapping shocks and gorilla gluing was getting old at this point and ZD's we're like $30 well worth it. Even if they're not the color Id want. Nothing wrong with red white and blue just doesn't go with Purple or Green so good.

Took it out for a drive and it's CRUNCHY sounding. No power and the front is doing most/all the work.

My diffs are shot.

Ive seen the hr stuff and watched guys on YouTube put it together but .an is it alot of $$$

Then I saw arrma had their own version so I took mine apart and pulled the planetary gears out they're still good it's just the ring and crown that's destroyed.

Arrma hardened steel ring and imput gears plus the new case because the ring is on the other side now.

I've left the case plastic and opted to forgo the hr yokes for now. So far so good

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You can see there's not much left 😂

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The assembled new metal diffs. In the center you can see the front and rear plastic ring gears the rear worn and chipped all over. Not enough grease on the stocks ones to say though. Not much diff fluid inside either.
I opted to keep the fluids stock with some

Team associated 10k front and rear
RednTacky for the outside.

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Now I got a borderline bullet proof drive train I thought what the hell I'll make it 4s. Got a

Spektrum 150a esc

Off of Jennys and I'm still waiting on a 2400kv blx motor to pop up for cheap some where.

I didnt realize how much bigger the esc is but no problem I drilled a small hole in the corner of the radio box and switch to longer tapping thread screws and so far it's stayed no problem and. I water issues either 🤞.

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Back in green. A mean 4s machine. I have a bunch of 3s packs and only 2 2s so it still primarily runs 3 but the power on 4 is just insane. The motor isnt made for it but I've written this motor off anyhow. I opted for the 6s speed control to keep everything cool and once the motor does go I'll get a 4s motor.
With a 13 tooth pinion tho even on 4s it really hasn't gotten that hot I can still do the finger test without getting burnt so in my book that's plenty cool.
The non belted six packs are great tires. They don't have as much offset as stock so you wouldn't want to run them with the stubby stock granite arms. They have a little more give in the grass than the stock tires so less traction rolling and more power slides which is always a good time.

The arrma cvds are not meant for the Typhon arms supposedly but they seem to do just fine for me and have never come apart at the center so far inspite of having less area covered than they should.

Just a little beast screaming and flying from one end to the other. Probably could have just gotten a full size 6s outcast for as much as I spent trying to make this truck into one, but ya know modifying and making them yours is part of the fun 😎.
 
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I think the paint looked good but I know what you were going for and the have Metal flake lexan paint thats semi transparent that you spray on first. I do also love the customizing aspect and you certainly learn a lot by doing so. I will say if you do want to jump to the 6s my wifes outcast 6s exb is TOUGH! In the 6mo we have owned it and about 20 or so sessions we have only bent a couple screws that I should have double checked out of the box, a front skid plate and a wing mount. If you want to check out a crazy tough 4s truck check out the new Sketer By team Corally the out the video in the first link then hit up the Corally Forum at the second
https://www.corallyforum.com/
 
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I thought spraying gold on the underside that as the paint chipped away it'd get this star burst hot wheels car kind of look to it, but it didn't really work out that way.

Those Exbs are awesome. I regret not grabbing the Kraton when it was 350 for that black Friday sale.

I've seen the Sketer. All the Team Corally stuff runs like it's on crack!

The Granite is my 4s rig now. Next stop for me is 6s whether that be a Kraton or Kronos, probably depends on whichever is on sale next 😂
 
I've seen the Sketer. All the Team Corally stuff runs like it's on crack!
The 6s rigs TC rigs do, but not the 4s. The 4s rigs are underpowered. The Sketer does 43mph on 4s. Outcast/Kraton 4s models do 53mph. With the 3200kv motor, your 4s rig should be even faster. A 4s Arrma will do triple backflips with air that the Sketer can only do one.
 
Oh really? It looked fast I'll have to find the video again, maybe someone converted to 6 already and I missed that part.
Regardless I'm not interested in the Sketer it's too close in line with what I already have. And like you said, my 4s Granite would beat the tar out of it.
Next step for me is a 6s model just haven't decided on whether I want another SWB or a LWB. I've more or less reached the limits of this platform for the kind of stuff I like to do.

Whatever it is it will have a center diff for sure 😂 that by far is my biggest gripe with the small arrmas. It impacts everything from performance to drive train longevity and it's so finicky for me.

Finally killed my first spur gear today and I am loathing taking it apart when it's currently right where I want.


EDIT: took the power module out today and the spur is still in great shape EXCEPT FOR

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The pinion retainer clip popped out and wrecked havoc in my gear box thankfully that appears to be the only damage. It's literally inside the teeth surprised it didn't destroy my pinion too. Not running them anymore 😂 a lock tite set screw should be plenty.

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Never posted it's current set up looks like. Here she is back in green till I repaint the OC body. Filthy from running in winter poop. Once the weather dries, I'll clean or pickup a new set of fast Eddy's rubber sealed bearings for everything.
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I cut 2 notches in the back so I can run with wing or without.
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Blew out my Duratrax Six Packs yesterday so we're slapping the LPs and the HR extenders back on. This time with Red Loctite and we'll see how the pins hold up.

Alot more room on the Granite body so chopping a corner off the wheel well is all that's needed to avoid body rub.

On 4s it's just silly. I can go flying down the street flip it on its lid and use the brakes to make it go upright midslide. I'll have to try to get my wife to record it it's pretty sick.

One 4s run in so far so good 🤘

I'll be checking the hub screws periodically to see how that red loctite holds up
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After seemed like an eternity of waiting between ordering the wrong parts or having incompatible hardware, she's finally done!

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Compared to the Notorious
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Still gotta get the turnbuckles lined up right then hopefully maiden rip tomorrow. She's more Outcast than Granite now.

I'll post the parts list and what I did to make crap work tomorrow but I had to share this today Can't wait to see how she does!
 
Did you ever get the 2400 kv and steel gear slipper set up? You may want to upgrade at least the rear diff to the CNC cut gears and HR yoke. My plastic yoke couldn't hold up to the stress. Seeing the same problem in my K4 as well, it just ate through a $40 set of gears in 20 packs.
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I'd look into getting a set of machined C hubs, the stock ones are prone to breaking.
TC Sketer:
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I bought a Sketer in Feb, 1st week after it was released. I'll tell you this, I've been pounding the hell out of that rig pack after pack and it just keeps taking it. I'm lucky to get through 1 pack in with my OC or K4 without having to pull the center driveshaft to retighten the slipper, ( no I don't locktite the slipper) or end up with a bent motor plate, stripped clutch hub ,or a twisted ( broken axle. Sure they'll outrun ( speed) and out flip the Sketer but not out handle it. The Sketer is so much smoother. Currently my Sketer has a 6s system it and will smoke my 4s Arrmas all day long in every metric.
 
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Did you ever get the 2400 kv and steel gear slipper set up? You may want to upgrade at least the rear diff to the CNC cut gears and HR yoke. My plastic yoke couldn't hold up to the stress. Seeing the same problem in my K4 as well, it just ate through a $40 set of gears in 20 packs. View attachment 212755
I'd look into getting a set of machined C hubs, the stock ones are prone to breaking.
TC Sketer:
View attachment 212756View attachment 212757View attachment 212758

I bought a Sketer in Feb, 1st week after it was released. I'll tell you this, I've been pounding the hell out of that rig pack after pack and it just keeps taking it. I'm lucky to get through 1 pack in with my OC or K4 without having to pull the center driveshaft to retighten the slipper, ( no I don't locktite the slipper) or end up with a bent motor plate, stripped clutch hub ,or a twisted ( broken axle. Sure they'll outrun ( speed) and out flip the Sketer but not out handle it. The Sketer is so much smoother. Currently my Sketer has a 6s system it and will smoke my 4s Arrmas all day long in every metric.
Yup Still Bashing my Sketer and have yet to break anything the rig is just tough, Truck of the Year Material for sure.
 
Did you ever get the 2400 kv and steel gear slipper set up? You may want to upgrade at least the rear diff to the CNC cut gears and HR yoke. My plastic yoke couldn't hold up to the stress. Seeing the same problem in my K4 as well, it just ate through a $40 set of gears in 20 packs. View attachment 212755
I'd look into getting a set of machined C hubs, the stock ones are prone to breaking.
TC Sketer:
View attachment 212756View attachment 212757View attachment 212758

I bought a Sketer in Feb, 1st week after it was released. I'll tell you this, I've been pounding the hell out of that rig pack after pack and it just keeps taking it. I'm lucky to get through 1 pack in with my OC or K4 without having to pull the center driveshaft to retighten the slipper, ( no I don't locktite the slipper) or end up with a bent motor plate, stripped clutch hub ,or a twisted ( broken axle. Sure they'll outrun ( speed) and out flip the Sketer but not out handle it. The Sketer is so much smoother. Currently my Sketer has a 6s system it and will smoke my 4s Arrmas all day long in every metric.

Nope haven't had the need yet, I've put close to 100 packs in this truck and only went through 3, one of which was just because the safe D clip was bouncing around in the gear box. And this is my skate park basher.

The Granite Motor hasn't died yet but when it does I'll go down some kvs probably. With the drive train shimmed up nice and no further dust getting built up inside, it's been very resilient and honestly not that hot. I'm gonna throw one more fan on it come summer and I'm thinking it should be good.

It won't protect every which way, but your motor mount and spurs will last longer if you add support between the motor can and the chassis.

M2c makes a motor mount/brace that addresses it or you can use something as simple as gift cards like I have in this build 🤪🤘

Yeah, I have arrma metal diff gears front and back. 👍 I just checked the gear mesh while I had it apart doing the suspension upgrade. Still look good but the HR yokes for the back are on my list especially now that I've added some more poundage to the Granite's frame.

If your slipper is coming loose, why not loctite the back? I used red loctite and it finally stays. Then when I need to take it apart just flick a lighter underneath it for a few seconds and good to go.


The Sketer looks like a beast man glad it's holding strong for ya. I got myself a Notorious during arrmas big sale in March and it's a totally different animal than the 3s machines.
 
Nice build. I am most impressed with the Typhon 3S. I'm 10 packs in dead stock, never even locktited the axles or did any of the preventative stuff before running it. Have a new ramp, jumping it 20-30 feet - not a problem. My only breakage was day 1 out on the street when I hit the tire of a car at about 40 kph with just the left rear wheel. Broke a turnbuckle and an A arm. I had spares already - no worries. I've been letting my GF's nephews and my kids run it and it just takes it and takes it.
 
I like my Notorious.
I didn't need to add much to it at all. HR F/R braces and Center diff mount. Basically all stock. And gets some big air no issues.
No slipper to deal with. Diffs are running great. Run it with 3s, 4s and 6s. All stock electrics.
If I got a 4x4, I would have sunk in way too much money, costing more than my Noto. out the box.
Seems many try $upgrade$ on their 4x4's to become as durable as the 6s line. When in reality, it costs way more and always has issues running 4s when more speed is wanted. Much of the 4x4 upgrades are just band-aids that don't always work. I feel the 4x4's are all money pits. Some can say ALL RC's are money pits, just that some RC platforms are $way worse$ than others.

Not raining on anyone's parade here. The 4x4 platform is a great starter rig for someone, a young kid perhaps, new to RC and learning, all while NOT bashing YT hard, and not sure if they will like the hobby.
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I feel the 4x4 platform is already maxxed out with 3s running. And probably more durable running 2s only. Investing $200.+ in upgrades makes no sense. Yet many do this. Needing 6s shocks, Motor mount plate, constant slipper repairs/adjustments, driveshaft breakages. C hubs breaking, Having to go to 17mm hexes from the standard oddball 14mm hexes in some cases. Weak Servo Saver issues, Steering slop that is way worse than the 6s line, Power module that collects so much dirt, gear mesh that never stays correct/ bricked pinions and spurs. Diffs that are hard to shim/plastic yokes and main gears etc, Motor BB's that are very poor. Many end up replacing motors early on. By the time you try to upgrade/address many of these problem areas, you could have purchased a 6s rig and then some.. I noticed so many 4x4 upgrade parts cost as much if not more than many 6s parts. 4x4 line is a money maker for upgrade brands and Arrma. Because Arrma doesn't want to make the 4x4x line any better, continues to sell as is with many inherent issues. This has gotten very old by now. The only thing new is the higher prices Arrma gets for the same old 4x4 platform.
Just get a 6s rig. Only when you get a 6s rig will you understand it better.
A 6s Typhon RTR can be had for only $500.
You will very easily bring your 4x4 well over $500. by the time you start upgrading things that always break frequently. And it will happen out the box.
You can't bash 4x4's hard, like Arrma wants you to think. It was originally meant as a 2s Mega platform, IMHO. It is maxxed out already, so it will not be durable as many would like it to be.
 
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I like my Notorious.
I didn't need to add much to it at all. HR F/R braces and Center diff mount. Basically all stock. And gets some big air no issues.
No slipper to deal with. Diffs are running great. Run it with 3s, 4s and 6s. All stock electrics.
If I got a 4x4, I would have sunk in way too much money, costing more than my Noto. out the box.
Seems many try $upgrade$ on their 4x4's to become as durable as the 6s line. When in reality, it costs way more and always has issues running 4s when more speed is wanted. Much of the 4x4 upgrades are just band-aids that don't always work. I feel the 4x4's are all money pits. Some can say ALL RC's are money pits, just that some RC platforms are $way worse$ than others.

Not raining on anyone's parade here. The 4x4 platform is a great starter rig for someone, a young kid perhaps, new to RC and learning, all while NOT bashing YT hard, and not sure if they will like the hobby.View attachment 212802

I feel the 4x4 platform is already maxxed out with 3s running. And probably more durable running 2s only. Investing $200.+ in upgrades makes no sense. Yet many do this. Needing 6s shocks, Motor mount plate, constant slipper repairs/adjustments, driveshaft breakages. C hubs breaking, Having to go to 17mm hexes from the standard oddball 14mm hexes in some cases. Weak Servo Saver issues, Steering slop that is way worse than the 6s line, Power module that collects so much dirt, gear mesh that never stays correct/ bricked pinions and spurs. Diffs that are hard to shim/plastic yokes and main gears etc, Motor BB's that are very poor. Many end up replacing motors early on. By the time you try to upgrade/address many of these problem areas, you could have purchased a 6s rig and then some.. I noticed so many 4x4 upgrade parts cost as much if not more than many 6s parts. 4x4 line is a money maker for upgrade brands and Arrma. Because Arrma doesn't want to make the 4x4x line any better, continues to sell as is with many inherent issues. This has gotten very old by now. The only thing new is the higher prices Arrma gets for the same old 4x4 platform.
Just get a 6s rig. Only when you get a 6s rig will you understand it better.
A 6s Typhon RTR can be had for only $500.
You will very easily bring your 4x4 well over $500. by the time you start upgrading things that always break frequently. And it will happen out the box.
You can't bash 4x4's hard, like Arrma wants you to think. It was originally meant as a 2s Mega platform, IMHO. It is maxxed out already, so it will not be durable as many would like it to be.

My kids are running their 3S rigs even in the skate park with minimal breakage and cheap replacement parts when they do. Agreed though that once you are serious and going to stay with this hobby, the 6S rigs are awesome. I really like my Notorious as well. My issue with buggies and smaller tired rigs is that where I run (construction areas a lot) the lower ground clearance = crashes and breakage. The Kraton is a great choice where I run and the Talion 6S would also be a good choice. At this point I am more looking to pick up used/smashed ones for cheap and then spend the money on the upgrades I want to make a good rig.
 
^^^ you have both 4x4 and 6s rigs there. You understand it well.(y)
 
I like my Notorious.
I didn't need to add much to it at all. HR F/R braces and Center diff mount. Basically all stock. And gets some big air no issues.
No slipper to deal with. Diffs are running great. Run it with 3s, 4s and 6s. All stock electrics.
If I got a 4x4, I would have sunk in way too much money, costing more than my Noto. out the box.
Seems many try $upgrade$ on their 4x4's to become as durable as the 6s line. When in reality, it costs way more and always has issues running 4s when more speed is wanted. Much of the 4x4 upgrades are just band-aids that don't always work. I feel the 4x4's are all money pits. Some can say ALL RC's are money pits, just that some RC platforms are $way worse$ than others.

Not raining on anyone's parade here. The 4x4 platform is a great starter rig for someone, a young kid perhaps, new to RC and learning, all while NOT bashing YT hard, and not sure if they will like the hobby.View attachment 212802

I feel the 4x4 platform is already maxxed out with 3s running. And probably more durable running 2s only. Investing $200.+ in upgrades makes no sense. Yet many do this. Needing 6s shocks, Motor mount plate, constant slipper repairs/adjustments, driveshaft breakages. C hubs breaking, Having to go to 17mm hexes from the standard oddball 14mm hexes in some cases. Weak Servo Saver issues, Steering slop that is way worse than the 6s line, Power module that collects so much dirt, gear mesh that never stays correct/ bricked pinions and spurs. Diffs that are hard to shim/plastic yokes and main gears etc, Motor BB's that are very poor. Many end up replacing motors early on. By the time you try to upgrade/address many of these problem areas, you could have purchased a 6s rig and then some.. I noticed so many 4x4 upgrade parts cost as much if not more than many 6s parts. 4x4 line is a money maker for upgrade brands and Arrma. Because Arrma doesn't want to make the 4x4x line any better, continues to sell as is with many inherent issues. This has gotten very old by now. The only thing new is the higher prices Arrma gets for the same old 4x4 platform.
Just get a 6s rig. Only when you get a 6s rig will you understand it better.
A 6s Typhon RTR can be had for only $500.
You will very easily bring your 4x4 well over $500. by the time you start upgrading things that always break frequently. And it will happen out the box.
You can't bash 4x4's hard, like Arrma wants you to think. It was originally meant as a 2s Mega platform, IMHO. It is maxxed out already, so it will not be durable as many would like it to be.


Yes, I've spent more on this truck just on upgrades, than it would have cost to go get a 6s truck. You've summed up everything I wanted to say upon completion of this build perfectly. I still love the truck inspite of all it's nonsense but the sunken cost fallacy is very real.

You can see over the course of this build work arounds for most everything you listed but they all cost $$ or aren't perfect.

You could just get a normal Notorious, not even EXB, throw a fan and amazon servo on it and be ahead in power, size AND durability for LESS than the "cheaper" 3/4s line.
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That said, this post will have the parts list next time I get down stairs for anyone else who wants to do what I did 😂😂😂😂🤣🤘🤘

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(2) ARA310886 ARRMA 3S/MEGA CNC INPUT GEAR(13T)
(2) ARA310885 ARRMA 3S/MEGA CNC CROWN GEAR (37T)
(2) ARA310772 ARRMA COMPOSITE DIFFERENTIAL CASE
AR330523 STEERING BLOCKS
AR330522 REAR HUBS
AR330519 C-HUBS
AR727411 KING PIN SCREW SET 5X24MM
(2) AR330524 HINGE PINS 3X48.5
AXA1356 AXIAL SILICONE BUSHINGS
(2)AR330525 STEEL TURNBUCKLES 4X63MM
AR330526 STEEL TURNBUCKLES 4X71MM
(2) ARA310893 CVD SLIDER SET
RPM 4S REAR A ARMS
RPM 4S FRONT A ARMS
FAST EDDY'S 4S OUTCAST SEALED BEARING KIT
WALLACE RACING 12X15X.2MM SHIMS (VARIETY PACK)
FACTORY TEAM 10K SILICONE DIFFERENTIAL FLUID
LUCAS RED" N" TACKY
PERMATEX THREAD LOCKER BLUE
JB WELD PERMA-LOCK RED
ZD 1/10 SCALE ALUMINUM SHOCKS
 
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