Typhon ZK's Typhon 6s Log

[ZooKeeper]

I'm currently in the process of performing my annual winter maintenance on my Typhon 6s. Perfect time to start a maintenance/build log for it.


Below is the list of parts that I've changed or upgraded from the stock out-of-the-box configuration:

Brand	Part #	Description	Link	Note
Arrma	AR310484	Wheel hex aluminum 17mm (16.5mm thick) red	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR330404	Hub Rear	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR310591	Wheel axle 8x45mm	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR330505	Composite steering block front 6s	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR310590	CVD axle 8x44.5mm	Link	Kraton Part
Scorched Parts	n/a	SWB Titanium Chassis	Link
Scorched Parts	n/a	Titanium Shock Towers	Link
Hot Racing	AON28C01	Aluminum Front Chassis Brace	Link
Hot Racing	AON30X01	Aluminum Rear Chassis Brace	Link
Hot Racing	AON1101	Aluminum Differential Carrier Case	Link
Hot Racing	AON50T	Hardened Steel Mod 1 Spur Gear	Link
Hot Racing	AON311M01	Aluminum Center Sway Bar Mounts	Link
Hot Racing	AON24M02	Aluminum Steering Servo Mount	Link
Hot Racing	AON08FR01	Aluminum Front Lower Rear Suspension Arm Mount	Link
Hot Racing	AON08FU01	Aluminum Upper Front Suspension Arm Mount	Link
Hot Racing	AON10M01	Aluminum 17mm Friction Dirt Shield Wheel Nuts	Link
Hot Racing	AON21N02	Aluminum Delrin Cap Hub Nut with O-Ring Red	Link
M2C Racing	M2C 3065	Ackerman bar/Steering rack	Link
M2C Racing	M2C 3080	Shock tower stand off kit	Link
HobbyWing	38010405	EZRUN MAX8 G2 COMBO	Link
PPS RC	n/a	Grublock Motor Mount	Link
PPS RC	n/a	SWITCHFORK Switch Mount for Hobbywing ESC's	Link
Robinson Racing	RRP1217	17 Tooth Hardened Steel Pinion Gear	Link
Pro-Line	PRO906741	1/8 Badlands MX M2 Front/Rear Buggy Tires Mounted 17mm Black	Link

-= Electronics =-
Hobbywing 4278S G2 2250KV Sensored Motor
Hobbywing Max8 G2 ESC
Flysky INr4-GYB Receiver (used with Noble NB4)

-= Differentials =-
Front - 10k
Center - 10k
Rear - 5k

-= Gears =-
17T pinion
50T spur gear

-= Shocks =-
TLR 50 wt (710 CST)

 

[ZooKeeper]

Currently, the car is in pieces. During my annual maintenance, I do a complete teardown, clean everything, check/clean/replace bearings, and perform any upgrades I haven't got around to yet.

Box-o-Typhon

Diff Parts and Bearings. Theres more parts here than whats required just for the Typhon, I'm working on some other cars too.

 

[dure16]

Currently, the car is in pieces. During my annual maintenance, I do a complete teardown, clean everything, check/clean/replace bearings, and perform any upgrades I haven't got around to yet.

Box-o-Typhon
View attachment 273972

Diff Parts and Bearings. Theres more parts here than whats required just for the Typhon, I'm working on some other cars too.
View attachment 273974

You gonna rebuild it with the HW?

 

[ZooKeeper]

You gonna rebuild it with the HW?

You bet, working on it now!

 

[dure16]

You bet, working on it now!

Nice! Still planning for primarily 4S? What size pinion are you thinking?

 

[ZooKeeper]

Nice! Still planning for primarily 4S? What size pinion are you thinking?

4s for now, I'm excited to see what the new motor will do for me compared to the stock motor. This is my first time changing the ESC & motor away from stock.

I had a 25T pinion in there already, I think I'm going to stick with it for now also for comparison purposes and then see if I want to go up or down after a couple runs.

 

[dure16]

I had a 25T pinion in there already, I think I'm going to stick with it for now also for comparison purposes and then see if I want to go up or down after a couple runs.

You may want to keep a close eye on temps. The stock Spektrum 6S motors test around 1900kv actual, where I’d guess that HW 2250kv rating is more accurate. 4S geared for 70mph may heat up quickly.

 

[Thebullfrog]

I love how the only ARRMA parts listed aren't even for a Typhon

 

[ZooKeeper]

I love how the only ARRMA parts listed aren't even for a Typhon

Yes - I've "truggified" my Typhon so that I can run monster truck tires if I choose to do so, it also widens the car a small bit which I like. I haven't run MT tires in over a year, but I plan on keeping this configuration as I'm also in the process of building an XL Typhon which will be on-road only. The car featured in this thread will be dedicated to off-road adventures.

I've updated my first post to add some clarification about the parts list.

 

[Thebullfrog]

Oh I know, my Typhon has all the same Kraton parts and MX28s. It's just funny seeing a whole list for a Typhon that's either Kraton, or aftermarket. There is NOTHING on there that came from the factory lol

 

[fozzy71]

I'm currently in the process of performing my annual winter maintenance on my Typhon 6s. Perfect time to start a maintenance/build log for it.


Below is the list of parts that I've changed or upgraded from the stock out-of-the-box configuration:

Brand	Part #	Description	Link	Note
Arrma	AR310484	Wheel hex aluminum 17mm (16.5mm thick) red	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR330404	Hub Rear	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR310591	Wheel axle 8x45mm	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR330505	Composite steering block front 6s	Link	Kraton Part
Arrma	AR310590	CVD axle 8x44.5mm	Link	Kraton Part
Scorched Parts	n/a	SWB Titanium Chassis	Link
Scorched Parts	n/a	Titanium Shock Towers	Link
Hot Racing	AON28C01	Aluminum Front Chassis Brace	Link
Hot Racing	AON30X01	Aluminum Rear Chassis Brace	Link
Hot Racing	AON1101	Aluminum Differential Carrier Case	Link
Hot Racing	AON50T	Hardened Steel Mod 1 Spur Gear	Link
Hot Racing	AON311M01	Aluminum Center Sway Bar Mounts	Link
Hot Racing	AON24M02	Aluminum Steering Servo Mount	Link
Hot Racing	AON08FR01	Aluminum Front Lower Rear Suspension Arm Mount	Link
Hot Racing	AON08FU01	Aluminum Upper Front Suspension Arm Mount	Link
Hot Racing	AON10M01	Aluminum 17mm Friction Dirt Shield Wheel Nuts	Link
Hot Racing	AON21N02	Aluminum Delrin Cap Hub Nut with O-Ring Red	Link
M2C Racing	M2C 3065	Ackerman bar/Steering rack	Link
M2C Racing	M2C 3080	Shock tower stand off kit	Link

Thx for taking the time to create and update the table. I am definitely going to copy some of your ideas.

 

[ZooKeeper]

Winter rebuild and maintenance is now complete! I still need to check my camber and toe, which I'll do before it's first run. As the ESC and motor are also new, I need to play with the ESC settings to figure out which configuration I prefer.

I used to have a T-Bone bumper on the front, but I've decided to remove that for the time being. Not sure if I'll ever put it back on or install some other bumper, we'll see in time. I've replaced the stock velcro straps with a single Kevlar reinforced strap. I've removed the front vertical sliding part of the battery tray as I now need to put my battery in backwards due to the short leads on the ESC. Maybe at some point I'll play with different ESC positioning. The issue now is that I don't have a good way to strap down the battery and ESC wires, so they are going to flop around - I need to figure out a solution to this.

Here are some pics:

 

[dure16]

Nice! Those new HW motors look great.

Could you loop the battery wire under the velcro before connecting to the ESC? It looks like that may help keep it taut.

How do you like that motor mount? PPS?

 

[Dan B.]

Looks great man, nice rig! Also, the table you made for parts and links in the build thread is fantastic, what a nice and concise approach.
Waiting to hear how you like that HW G2 setup, I’ve been really curious about those since they dropped. Nice that the HW’s are finally sensored.

 

[ZooKeeper]

How do you like that motor mount? PPS?

Its really nice! Setting gear mesh is so much better now. Just turn a screw to set your mesh, the screw holds it in place while you lock down the motor mount screws. No longer does the motor mount move while tightening the motor mount screws, moving that mesh you just spent 20 minutes trying to get perfect.

 

[ZooKeeper]

Well.... The Typhon is well overdue for maintenance and after a few too many crashes at the last local meetup, it was in need of some repairs as well.

The original plan was to replace the bent passenger front shock shaft, change the diff fluids, confirm all screws were tight, check bearings, and perform a light cleaning.

While taking things apart to get to the diffs, I found other repairs were needed as well.

• The spur gear was missing a tooth and the rest of the teeth were sharp enough to open Amazon boxes
• The lower front passenger hinge pin snapped inside the arm
• A screw in the front lower rear arm mount sheared off from under the chassis, making the remainder of the screw to require extraction
• The front front arm mount was twisted
• The rear front arm mount was cracked
• One of the two motor cooling fans has at least one broken blade

I've already completed the diff fluid change and went with 10k/10k/5k. I chose this because I only run 4s in this car now, and after driving @MMoelmann's Typhon for a little bit with the same diff setup, I wanted to give it a try in my own car. Regarding the center diff and the spur gear - I went back to the stock spur. I have no complaints about the Hot Racing spur I wore out, it worked great, I just didn't want to wait for a new one to show up.

The bearings on the diffs were all running smoothly still, so I didn't do anything with them. I still need to go through the bearings in the wheel hubs though.

I've decided to go the M2C route for my arm mount repairs. I've ordered the kits for both the front and back of the car. They are still in transit to my doorstep however. I'm hoping they arrive sometime this week before the next meetup this Sunday.

My custom painted body is pretty beat up at this point too. It has a hole forming above the drivers side "window" from road rash, the rear body mount holes have cracked to the rear edge, and the paint is starting to flake off in various areas. I have a new body already in my hands, I'm now just waiting for spring's warmer weather to do some painting.

@Dan B. a review of the HW MAX8 G2 combo kit is long overdue. I've been very happy with it over the last year. This was my first time using something other than the stock motor and ESC in any of my cars. I love how quiet it is when I take my car for a walk and how smooth the throttle control is. I would buy the kit again if I had a need for it.