Big Rock Big Rock 3s rear Differential outer gears shredded - upgrades or stock parts?

[Hector_Fisher]

@Velodromed do you have any experience with the hot racing helical diff gears? they look to be plug and play with the existing stock diff case.
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-ATF9337-Helical-Pinion/dp/B00A29DVDC
I know people have varying experience with HR steel parts, so I ask because i'm cautiously wary... But it seems like another option that I didn't know about until today.

EDIT: looks like you need the new diff case (ARAC4023). Regardless, curious how these might stack up.

 

[Velodromed]

@Velodromed do you have any experience with the hot racing helical diff gears? they look to be plug and play with the existing stock diff case.
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-ATF9337-Helical-Pinion/dp/B00A29DVDC
I know people have varying experience with HR steel parts, so I ask because i'm cautiously wary... But it seems like another option that I didn't know about until today.

EDIT: looks like you need the new diff case (ARAC4023). Regardless, curious how these might stack up.

Nope. I’m suspicious of hot racing stuff for the most part. There’s just a few parts that I like so far (diff yokes and 6s chassis braces). Those diffs sure look nice but I think they require hot racing out drives to work right. I may be wrong but for some reason I thought they were required. I don’t see them as part of the set though. I’ve just stuck with the Arrma CNC diffs, which are excellent. Using the internal gears from a stock diff they run about 45 bucks to build, including the input gear.

The new 4S sintered metal diffs seem decent, I’ve been testing one out on the rear of 4s old yeller, but will move it up front next time I open them for servicing. I did have to do a little bit of material removal inside the differential area of the 3s chassis for them to work. I just don’t quite trust sintered metal though for the rear. I love the CNC ones though. I know that they can handle a lot as I’ve been running two for over a year now on the rear of over powered 3s cars, and they have near zero wear. I’ve now put them in my two, 4s cars now.

 

[bukshypro]

My only prob w the Arrma metal diff stuff is their price, other than that it looks and feels like a tank. Also, you put it in a metal yoke ($18-20 on Amazon) and how the metal input gear and crown gear meshes, touches each other, dammmmm, I think I need one to be in my hand always, it just feels so damn good.

But you tell me, isnt this absolutely sexy?

 

[Velodromed]

My only prob w the Arrma metal diff stuff is their price, other than that it looks and feels like a tank. Also, you put it in a metal yoke ($18-20 on Amazon) and how the metal input gear and crown gear meshes, touches each other, dammmmm, I think I need one to be in my hand always, it just feels so damn good.

But you tell me, isnt this absolutely sexy?

View attachment 268672

I agree, the price is a bit much. But considering how long they last I think it’s justifiable. Typically I can’t get plastic diffs to last much longer than four months on the cars I drive daily. But the metal diffs I’ve had for over a year, maybe 14 months, and they have almost no wear on them.

I know I can get the complete already built diffs for close to 80 bucks, but I build them for around 50, including the input gear. Of course the metal diff yoke is another 25 to 30 but those are worth it as well. And yeah, they are definitely nice to look at lol.

Oh, where did you find a metal diff yoke for only 18 to 20? The cheapest I’ve found is 25.

 

[bukshypro]

I agree, the price is a bit much. But considering how long they last I think it’s justifiable. Typically I can’t get plastic diffs to last much longer than four months on the cars I drive daily. But the metal diffs I’ve had for over a year, maybe 14 months, and they have almost no wear on them.

I know I can get the complete already built diffs for close to 80 bucks, but I build them for around 50, including the input gear. Of course the metal diff yoke is another 25 to 30 but those are worth it as well. And yeah, they are definitely nice to look at lol.

Oh, where did you find a metal diff yoke for only 18 to 20? The cheapest I’ve found is 25.

The brand is RCAWD, found them on AmazonUK. And its pretty damn good quality from what I can tell, but its the exact same replica of the Hot Racing metal yoke.

I am working with a friend of mine who is CNC pro to see what we can manifacture in Europe thats better quality than Arrma parts and yet cheaper. My whole point is to sell something that s better and cheaper. Once I have a few test pieces you ll be the first person that I will send some too.
Currently Im looking into making 3S line stronger from around the diff, so spur gear, crown gear, input gear, yoke and diff body. Then we get onto body parts, skid plates, chassis brace and such. And then we go to 4S and above from there.

 

[Velodromed]

The brand is RCAWD, found them on AmazonUK. And its pretty damn good quality from what I can tell, but its the exact same replica of the Hot Racing metal yoke.

I am working with a friend of mine who is CNC pro to see what we can manifacture in Europe thats better quality than Arrma parts and yet cheaper. My whole point is to sell something that s better and cheaper. Once I have a few test pieces you ll be the first person that I will send some too.
Currently Im looking into making 3S line stronger from around the diff, so spur gear, crown gear, input gear, yoke and diff body. Then we get onto body parts, skid plates, chassis brace and such. And then we go to 4S and above from there.

View attachment 268711

Ahh ok, I didn’t realize you’re in the UK. Those are the same ones that I found. I got one and it works just as well as heart racing. Basically 25 to 28 bucks US. Thanks bud!

 

[iLikeRCs]

The brand is RCAWD, found them on AmazonUK. And its pretty damn good quality from what I can tell, but its the exact same replica of the Hot Racing metal yoke.

I am working with a friend of mine who is CNC pro to see what we can manifacture in Europe thats better quality than Arrma parts and yet cheaper. My whole point is to sell something that s better and cheaper. Once I have a few test pieces you ll be the first person that I will send some too.
Currently Im looking into making 3S line stronger from around the diff, so spur gear, crown gear, input gear, yoke and diff body. Then we get onto body parts, skid plates, chassis brace and such. And then we go to 4S and above from there.

View attachment 268711

You should definitely try making some outer diff gears for the 6s arrmas, as no cnced ones exist as far as I know

 

[Velodromed]

I am working with a friend of mine who is CNC pro to see what we can manifacture in Europe thats better quality than Arrma parts and yet cheaper.

I am very interested to see what you guys come up with! And I would love to test them out. Anything that you make for the 3s line or 4s line should be able to work on either car. Very good idea man. I wish you guys much luck

 

[bukshypro]

You should definitely try making some outer diff gears for the 6s arrmas, as no cnced ones exist as far as I know

I am very interested to see what you guys come up with! And I would love to test them out. Anything that you make for the 3s line or 4s line should be able to work on either car. Very good idea man. I wish you guys much luck

Thanks both for the encouragement. To be frank im shitting myself from the fact that I am just about to start a business. I ve set myself small tasks that I can do day by day to feel like I do something to get closer to this and it makes me feel a bit more relaxed cuz otherwise I super overwhelmed by the myriad of ideas and things I gotta do

 

[Velodromed]

Thanks both for the encouragement. To be frank im shitting myself from the fact that I am just about to start a business. I ve set myself small tasks that I can do day by day to feel like I do something to get closer to this and it makes me feel a bit more relaxed cuz otherwise I super overwhelmed by the myriad of ideas and things I gotta do

I can imagine the level of stress involved. But if it works it’s worth it huh?

 

[Hector_Fisher]

It's tempting. But I'm not currently having any diff issues, and I've had to make it a point in the past not to buy parts for stuff that ain't broken to curb spending I'm on a restricted, "very visible" budget if you catch my drift eventually I want to go 4s for higher top end, but I don't even have the esc, so I'm not jonesing for upgrades.

UGH, I should have knocked on wood.

It appears my Big rock was listening in and decided to make me eat my words, as just yesterday I heard that annoying grinding sound from the rear diff. Looks like i'll be re-reading this thread again

To be fair, i believe the last time I touched the diff was about a year. So maybe it was due!

 

[Velodromed]

UGH, I should have knocked on wood.

It appears my Big rock was listening in and decided to make me eat my words, as just yesterday I heard that annoying grinding sound from the rear diff. Looks like i'll be re-reading this thread again

To be fair, i believe the last time I touched the diff was about a year. So maybe it was due!

Yeah it was listening a year is a damn good amount of time for a differential to last. I would just get one of the metal ones off of jennys and run it on the rear. Keep a stock on up front. I’ve had no problem running stock differentials upfront, they just aren’t near as stressed as the ones on the rear. I take it a step further and put an aluminum yoke on the rear. It’s like double insurance.

 

[bukshypro]

if it lasted a year, I wont even try convincing you to go for metal ones
I gotta take apart mine to see how they look after a few bashes. for some reason I feel excited working with so nice metal

 

[Hector_Fisher]

if it lasted a year, I wont even try convincing you to go for metal ones
I gotta take apart mine to see how they look after a few bashes. for some reason I feel excited working with so nice metal

Okay, keep your pants on. This forum is family friendly.