Big Rock Big rock rear diff problems

[Mkampf1016]

Hey guys, had some problems with my rear diff today. A few minutes in to bashing with my kids I noticed my rear wheels weren't getting any power, so I put the big rock to the side until I could look at it...just got a chance to take it apart and I found the center gear completely destroyed (forgive me, I'm new to rc and no idea what its called). This car is less than a month old and has been used maybe 4-5 packs through it.

Car is completely stock besides some mx28 badlands and new transmitter. Also, the diff is about 1/4 full of fluid.

What would cause this? Is this a common issue? Is this a legitimate warranty claim?

 

[razorrc]

Loosen your slipper.

 

[K-BASH]

Bigger, heavier tires will destroy rear diffs.jennyrc is the best for new input gear,an whole rear diff like 20-30$$

 

[Mkampf1016]

Loosen your slipper.

Ok Ill try that! I adjusted it when I first got it, apparently I didnt adjust it correctly.

And thanks for all your videos! I've watched a bunch of them and I usually search your channel first when trying to figure something out, extremely helpful!

Bigger, heavier tires will destroy rear diffs.jennyrc is the best for new input gear,an whole rear diff like 20-30$$

If I just replace the parts though is it just going to keep happening? or is it definitely just solely an issue with adjusting my slipper clutch and all will be ok?

 

[K-BASH]

Adjust slipper an should be good ,keep punch low.ive blown 5 rear diffs in a year with senton,big rock.5in tire an bigger better have slipper adjusted.i tighten my slipper down,run all smaller tires that spin a little,an mine 4,6s sytems.the 1/10 are truly amazingfor what they are capable of stock..mx28s don't spin,heavier tire,grip hard===blown rears & broken axles unless adjusted clutch.

 

[Mkampf1016]

Adjust slipper an should be good ,keep punch low.ive blown 5 rear diffs in a year with senton,big rock.5in tire an bigger better have slipper adjusted.i tighten my slipper down,run all smaller tires that spin a little,an mine 4,6s sytems.the 1/10 are truly amazingfor what they are capable of stock..mx28s don't spin,heavier tire,grip hard===blown rears & broken axles unless adjusted clutch.

Awesome, will do that

The whole diff assembly was only like $15 from jrc so thats on order already!

I'll loosen the slipper and how low would you recommend punch setting? 1 or 2?

 

[K-BASH]

1 or 2..I tighten my slipper tight,then back it off 1/4 turn.

 

[kantonburg]

Awesome, will do that

The whole diff assembly was only like $15 from jrc so thats on order already!

I'll loosen the slipper and how low would you recommend punch setting? 1 or 2?

@jondilly1974

This is a good starting point

 

[razorrc]

Ok Ill try that! I adjusted it when I first got it, apparently I didnt adjust it correctly.

The V3's need their slipper set a little looser than the earlier versions, I think the pads are grippier or the spring is stiffer or something. Loosen it until you notice the slipper slip on full throttle from a stop, then tighten it maybe a half turn.

 

[stiles]

The V3's need their slipper set a little looser than the earlier versions, I think the pads are grippier or the spring is stiffer or something. Loosen it until you notice the slipper slip on full throttle from a stop, then tighten it maybe a half turn.

I’ll have to try that. Everyone says a turn and a half from tight

 

[razorrc]

I’ll have to try that. Everyone says a turn and a half from tight

Well, I guess I disagree with everyone then. Every car is different, there's no fast and easy answer to setting your slipper.

 

[stiles]

Well, I guess I disagree with everyone then. Every car is different, there's no fast and easy answer to setting your slipper.

Well I watch your videos and gotta say I’m gonna take your word for it.

 

[DRBNGR]

Hy guys,

i'm pretty shure i got my slipper adjusted wrong because i killed both of my diffs.

So i swaped them.

Now i notice that there is some friction. Meaning as i spin the wheels it is not as smooth-running as before.
And when i spin the diff while it is not attached there is some resistance at two points in one rotation.

I changed the diff and the input gear but i took over the old ball bearings.

Is this because of poor manufacturing accuracy and will disappear over time or is it because of the old ball bearings?

 

[GRC]

The V3's need their slipper set a little looser than the earlier versions, I think the pads are grippier or the spring is stiffer or something. Loosen it until you notice the slipper slip on full throttle from a stop, then tighten it maybe a half turn.

Well, I guess I disagree with everyone then. Every car is different, there's no fast and easy answer to setting your slipper.

I'd estimate your full throttle slip then tighten half a turn method gets you pretty close to 1 and 1/2 turns from full tight (maybe more like 1 and 3/4), so you may not really be in disagreement. There will some variation depending on the tires, surface, etc. I also recommend loosening around 1 and 1/2 turns from fully tight. Also, in my opinion, that slipper clutch video results in a very tight slipper, definitely much tighter than 1 and 1/2 turns loosened.

 

[razorrc]

I'd estimate your full throttle slip then tighten half a turn method gets you pretty close to 1 and 1/2 turns from full tight (maybe more like 1 and 3/4), so you may not really be in disagreement.

Probably not, I actually loosen both my Granite and Vorteks about 1.5-2 turns from the factory setting, so I'm probably like 3 turns out from full tight. Actually I don't even use that full throttle and then tighten method, I can just tell by driving a car how to set it. But that's too hard to explain, so that was my simplistic version.

The reason you can't rely on these "X turns from tight" is for a bunch of reasons. Springs wear out, slipper pads wear out, depends on your power level, depends on your tires, traction, and the surface you run on. Every car is different.

I'm a firm believer that you should be tightening the slipper in to set it, not loosening it out to set it. Springs are more consistent when tightening, not as much when loosening. Springs will usually not be as strong if you precompress them all the way, so you lose some of the tension range. It's also easy to overcompress the springs, especially on Traxxas cars. Also, you run the risk of overtightening and snapping the bolt when tightening it all the way (before you loosen it).

 

[GRC]

I doubt you're a full 3 turns out. I just went through some slipper adjustment experiments. 3 turns out will probably get you a slipper that never catches. I don't know for sure because anything over about 2 1/2 turns already slips way too much for anyone. Full tight is easy to find, I don't think it varies much in an Arrma slipper. Tighten until there's a sudden, very noticeable change in resistance. How loose you want it from there depends on tires/power/surface/preference.

I think I understand how you set your slipper. You loosen it, test it, and tighten until you like the response. It's still useful to then count how many rotations you are from full tight. Then you know the exact, easily repeatable setting for the next time.

 

[razorrc]

I just drive my cars, see if it's too loose or too tight and then loosen or tighten as needed. That's it.

 

[Ruzty1311]

Speaking of slipper pads....how do you know when to swap them out for new ones? When they are nice and black lol?