Big Rock Center diff in BRCC?

[Emery Hall]

I just saw the center diff used in the 4s Mojave and I’m curious as to how I could use this in a BRCC or any 3s model for that matter. I think this could be a game changer for me because the slipper clutch has always been the biggest problem for me. I would assume I’d need the center diff, motor mount, and a different center drive shaft. If anyone has already made a thread on this please let me know.

 

[Rocketzx1]

Looks like you’d need the center diff, motor plate, and plastic module that holds it all together. But I’m going to wait for someone else to try it

 

[slick2500]

 

[Emery Hall]

Looks like you’d need the center diff, motor plate, and plastic module that holds it all together. But I’m going to wait for someone else to try it

On YouTube I found a video where somebody did in fact try it and it looks like it drops in with the chassis only needing slight modification. I found the diff on order, the motor mount on preorder, and could not find the plastic module. I am going to wait to see how this works out though but if it’s any better than the slipper this will be huge (for me atleast).

Just saw this lol. Thanks man!

 

[slick2500]

On YouTube I found a video where somebody did in fact try it and it looks like it drops in with the chassis only needing slight modification. I found the diff on order, the motor mount on preorder, and could not find the plastic module. I am going to wait to see how this works out though but if it’s any better than the slipper this will be huge (for me atleast).

Just saw this lol. Thanks man!

Apparently JayteeRc forced his in.

 

[Emery Hall]

Apparently JayteeRc forced his in.

Ah. Well I got a while before I have to decide to modify or force. Probably going to wait until I can order all parts at once. For now I will keep fighting my enemy, the slipper clutch…

 

[FlipSide]

I am 100% for a center diff in the 3S line, but what issues are you having with the slipper clutch of the 3S line? It's been surprisingly reliable for me. Fully tightened, then back 1.5 turn.

 

[Emery Hall]

I am 100% for a center diff in the 3S line, but what issues are you having with the slipper clutch of the 3S line? It's been surprisingly reliable for me. Fully tightened, then back 1.5 turn.

I just never think I have been able to gauge the tightness right. I have also cracked the metal things a couple times aswell on the slipper. I also keep stripping spurs. I don’t see what is wrong because it doesn’t seem too tight, motor mount is pretty straight, and the bearings seem fine.

 

[FlipSide]

I may have been lucky, but -1.5 turn works well for me on my two 3S cars.

I am also impressed at how long the plastic spurs can last. Just for science (!?), I recently monitored a very worn one one after every pack, just to see how long it would last. It lasted a good 3 full packs after I should have replaced it. I am very dedicated on getting the mesh perfect though, and I recheck it once in a while, so that's probably a big part of it. Maybe you set your mesh too loose? Also, I did my best to seal everything in order to avoid getting sand and crap in the plastic power module. Recently, I slotted the chassis under the spur. I thought letting crap get out was easier than ensuring it doesn't get in.

I fully agree with the cracked metal thing. Again, I have been lucky so far, but just looking at it, it's obviously made of very low-quality metal. Hopefully the new 4S center diff assembly uses higher quality.

 

[razorrc]

I may have been lucky, but -1.5 turn works well for me on my two 3S cars.

I am also impressed at how long the plastic spurs can last. Just for science (!?), I recently monitored a very worn one one after every pack, just to see how long it would last. It lasted a good 3 full packs after I should have replaced it. I am very dedicated on getting the mesh perfect though, and I recheck it once in a while, so that's probably a big part of it. Maybe you set your mesh too loose? Also, I did my best to seal everything in order to avoid getting sand and crap in the plastic power module. Recently, I slotted the chassis under the spur. I thought letting crap get out was easier than ensuring it doesn't get in.

I fully agree with the cracked metal thing. Again, I have been lucky so far, but just looking at it, it's obviously made of very low-quality metal. Hopefully the new 4S center diff assembly uses higher quality.

Yup, all of this important. Once you understand how to set the slipper and maintain the unsealed power module, it's pretty reliable.

 

[Rocketzx1]

I’m going to assume most people who have had ongoing issues with the sub par slipper clutch have more than enough experience to properly set the slipper tightness and gear mesh.

With that said, I’ve also broken the metal ring off just by tightening the screw in all the way to back it off 1.5 turns. The part itself should be able to withstand the force exerted on it by that tiny spring. And yet it doesn’t. I bought a Chinese knock off part to try for the slipper plates and it’s doing better than stock parts, but the slipper clutch still backs the screw out even with loctite. This has been an issue since the first mega/3s model release. It’s needs to be fixed.

Most people on here will tell you the slipper clutch for the 3s models is horse crap. It’s a poorly made part and is the main issue people have with their 3s models. It shouldn’t still be an ongoing problem. If the center diff is a viable option I will be putting it in all my 3/4s models.