Big Rock Help, there is some sort of slipage going on in my rear diff.

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Absolute pig to work on that's why mine gets the least "air time" my money's on that slipper, diff looks fine, let us know how u get on once it's all re assembled ?
Completely agree on the jumping or sending these heavy trucks, that's why I'm fine just blasting through grass/dirt/asphalt.
 
Silicone in diffs and seal accordingly
Do you think the diff-lock holes on the diff case needs to be sealed if the brain mechanism is removed? Wonder how it was sealed for the non-diff brain Neros? Thought you could just install the mechanism as a plug and play option.
Do you think the diff-lock holes on the diff case needs to be sealed if the brain mechanism is removed? Wonder how it was sealed for the non-diff brain Neros? Thought you could just install the mechanism as a plug and play option.
I've had this truck over three years and still learning about it.
 
Do you think the diff-lock holes on the diff case needs to be sealed if the brain mechanism is removed? Wonder how it was sealed for the non-diff brain Neros? Thought you could just install the mechanism as a plug and play option.

I've had this truck over three years and still learning about it.

No, there should be a red rubber grommet in the plastic housing.
 

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Is this for the nero? I'm not sure what your talking about.
Yes the Nero, the metal case that holds the planetary and sun gears, the pics you showed with the gears inside it. I was wondering if the non-diff brain Nero diff-lock pin holes came sealed from the factory.
 
Oh, I am not sure about that. Do they need to be sealed? I took the servo and pins out.
 
Guess I'll find out once I finish my build and test it. I've only ever locked the center diff on my Big Rock, so I removed the locking mechanism on both front and rear diffs on this new Nero build.
 
Ok so the whole plastic gearbox assy which houses the diff and its brain (first pic) I use red high temp grease dabbed around the gears, inside the actual diffs from factory is grease, strip, degrease and re build with desired oil I used 60f 200c 30r transformed the truck because they're ally cases loctite the pins in (blue) I've had drive issues in the past and 9/10 it's been the slipper, beautifully engineered truck but the newer stuff is so easy to work on ?
I don't think so, as I can see no debris can get into the diff itself interesting to see if the cases are the same minus the brain
 
Ok so the whole plastic gearbox assy which houses the diff and its brain (first pic) I use red high temp grease dabbed around the gears, inside the actual diffs from factory is grease, strip, degrease and re build with desired oil I used 60f 200c 30r transformed the truck because they're ally cases loctite the pins in (blue) I've had drive issues in the past and 9/10 it's been the slipper, beautifully engineered truck but the newer stuff is so easy to work on ?
I don't think so, as I can see no debris can get into the diff itself interesting to see if the cases are the same minus the brain

Ok, thanks for the response. I'll try that. I also have another question. Whenever I spin the input shaft, I hear and feel something hitting the inside of the plastic housing. But, whenever I take one of the covers off, the noise goes away. What do you think this could be?
 
No, I mean the screws holding the whole motor and transmission assembly inside the car. I can send a picture.



There are four screws on each side of the car holding it in. Like 5 out of 8 are stripped.
How i did it for me i took a old electric drill and started tightening the muzzle until it fully grips the screw head the best it could and activate reverse
 
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