Metal diff build ?

[Anthony jaques]

I'm building the arrma aluminum diff conversion and I have mugen shims.my question is the breakdown shows 2 arrma shims on outdrive satellite gear side I'm using the mugen but only have one set do I put one arrma under mugen seems wobbley. Do I get another shim set or do I just run 1 mugen which seems the most logical but there is the tiniest of play when pushing the drive cup back and forth. So I guess my real question is do I really need to shim's in that place or do the gears press together taking up that tiny maybe 1/4 Millimeter . I apologize in advance if this was not punctuated properly. I am just trying to task a question thank you for your time.

I'm building the arrma aluminum diff conversion and I have mugen shims.my question is the breakdown shows 2 arrma shims on outdrive satellite gear side I'm using the mugen but only have one set do I put one arrma under mugen seems wobbley. Do I get another shim set or do I just run 1 mugen which seems the most logical but there is the tiniest of play when pushing the drive cup back and forth. So I guess my real question is do I really need to shim's in that place or do the gears press together taking up that tiny maybe 1/4 Millimeter . I apologize in advance if this was not punctuated properly. I am just trying to task a question thank you for your time.

2 shims sry
Hear is the breakdown to show where I'm talking about

 

[KevinC]

Hey bro.

You’re going to find that it’s hit and miss with shims in the diff. It’s a crap shoot……not enough shimming results in improper sun/planetary mesh and too many results in the gears binding. It’s different for every diff. I have metal diffs too and in some cases require 3 shims on each end…..some cases only 2.

I can only suggest a “dry” fit test…….build your diff with what you think is the best fit…..don’t put oil in it and put it together. If it’s smooth, disassemble it and fill it with your choice oil. If it binds, remove a shim.

cheers,
kev

 

[Anthony jaques]

Hey bro.

You’re going to find that it’s hit and miss with shims in the diff. It’s a crap shoot……not enough shimming results in improper sun/planetary mesh and too many results in the gears binding. It’s different for every diff. I have metal diffs too and in some cases require 3 shims on each end…..some cases only 2.

I can only suggest a “dry” fit test…….build your diff with what you think is the best fit…..don’t put oil in it and put it together. If it’s smooth, disassemble it and fill it with your choice oil. If it binds, remove a shim.

cheers,
kev

Thank you so much I was thinking the exact thing dry build that helps alot I really appreciate it

 

[Anthony jaques]

Hey bro.

You’re going to find that it’s hit and miss with shims in the diff. It’s a crap shoot……not enough shimming results in improper sun/planetary mesh and too many results in the gears binding. It’s different for every diff. I have metal diffs too and in some cases require 3 shims on each end…..some cases only 2.

I can only suggest a “dry” fit test…….build your diff with what you think is the best fit…..don’t put oil in it and put it together. If it’s smooth, disassemble it and fill it with your choice oil. If it binds, remove a shim.

cheers,
kev

Hey bro have you ever needed these they didn't come stock on my fireteam

 

[SrC]

They came stock on my FT. They are only used at the rear. Not with the front CVD axels. I installed them on most of my OG 6s Arrma's as well. Was considered a V5 EXB part thing, but found its way on most all of the 6s platform line as of late. Unless Arrma is cost cutting???? Which they do rather often. Thinking most won't even notice them missing. IMO, The Arrma outsource factory is ripping off HH/Arrma, like with cheaping out on filling the diffs properly. Its a common China thing. Many products, not just with RC outsourcing.

 

[Anthony jaques]

They came stock on my FT. They are only used at the rear. Not with the front CVD axels. I installed them on most of my OG 6s Arrma's as well. Was considered a V5 EXB part thing, but found its way on most all of the 6s platform line as of late. Unless Arrma is cost cutting???? Which they do rather often. Thinking most won't even notice them missing. IMO, The Arrma outsource factory is ripping off HH/Arrma, like with cheaping out on filling the diffs properly. Its a common China thing. Many products, not just with RC outsourcing.

Yeah mine came with none I used black rubber o rings

 

[KevinC]

Yes I use them but as Steve mentioned above most don't notice them missing and they're not for the front CVD's.....not 100% sure why not. They prove to be a tight fit (it's hard to get the shaft into the outdrive because the rubber grommet takes up a lot of room)

Could be that front drive shafts tend to pop out more than rears so putting anything in the outdrive cup to push the shaft outward more than necessary is a bad idea.

 

[Anthony jaques]

Yes I use them but as Steve mentioned above most don't notice them missing and they're not for the front CVD's.....not 100% sure why not. They prove to be a tight fit (it's hard to get the shaft into the outdrive because the rubber grommet takes up a lot of room)

Could be that front drive shafts tend to pop out more than rears so putting anything in the outdrive cup to push the shaft outward more than necessary is a bad idea.

I'm sure why lol I shimed my cvds and it caused diff to skip teeth on heavy power