Diff questions

[dphung]

I have a Kraton 6s EXB, the older one not sure what V that is. But I also have a stretched truggy Typhon and want to make them to the point where they’re interchangeable. The more I read on diff cases the more I’m getting confused. Pulled my secondhand Typhon apart for diff fluid and found out that it has a plastic diff case, so I’m wanting to go metal case. I’m looking at this setup from RCAWD.

Or do I need to go with this one to match the Kraton?

Also am I right in my guess of me changing to the similar Kraton diff I can’t use the Typhon outdrives and input? And I’ll have to get all new diff internals and cups?

 

[MrTitanium]

All 6s “EXB” labelled Arrmas have 29mm diffs. Some newer models also have 29mm diffs but are not labelled with “EXB” such as the new Big Rock. Ratios are as follows:

GP4: 43T/10T (available as both “open” or LSD units).
GP5: 42T/15T (Limitless, Infraction v2, Felony front diff)
GP6: 45T/14T (Felony rear diff)

The 29mm have the plastic “ribbed” diff cups (983). To the best of my knowledge, the aluminum diff case 061 is optional and not standard equipment.

All other 6s diffs have 31mm diffs.

Gear ratio between the 29mm (GP4 only) and 31mm are the same (4.3:1) so they are interchangeable (provided that you use the applicable pinion gear as the pitch differs between the two designs). In other words, they must be changed as an assembly only.

I don’t trust RCAWD gears and components.

 

[joshludden]

Just buy the arrma type of components

 

[PrerunninF150]

Just get Arrma cases RCAWD is trash. I would upgrade the Typhon to the EXB diffs.

 

[MrTitanium]

A well-blueprinted (shimmed) differential with OEM (stock) components will survive surprisingly well with stock electronics. But, keep in mind that the Arrma gears are Chinesium and can only take so much before they go kaboom. Once you decide to go with a hotter motor, bigger tires, etc. etc., your stock diffs will hate you and they'll let you know. Believe me.

This is the route I took with my Big Rock 6s and Infraction V1. I've done a lot of research and trial-and-error. I would consider the following a huge improvement over stock, but as aviation has taught me throughout the years, nothing is bulletproof.

Front:
- 29mm (LSD).
- 10K fluid.
- Arrma 061 aluminum diff case.
- Vitavon ring and pinion gear set.
- Vitavon spider gear set.
- Mugen shims throughout.
- M2C Racing outdrives.
- Mugen outdrive pins.
- Vitavon bulkhead.

Center:
- 31mm
- 100k fluid.
- Arrma 050 aluminum diff case.
- OEM ring and pinion gear set.
- M2C Racing outdrives.
- M2C outdrive pins.
- All-Mugen spider gears and shims.

Rear:
- 29mm (open).
- 60k fluid.
- Arrma 061 aluminum diff case.
- Vitavon ring and pinion gear set.
- Vitavon spider gear set.
- M2C Racing outdrives.
- Mugen outdrive pins.
- Vitavon bulkhead.

 

[Shadows]

A well-blueprinted (shimmed) differential with OEM (stock) components will survive surprisingly well with stock electronics. But, keep in mind that the Arrma gears are Chinesium and can only take so much before they go kaboom. Once you decide to go with a hotter motor, bigger tires, etc. etc., your stock diffs will hate you and they'll let you know. Believe me.

This is the route I took with my Big Rock 6s and Infraction V1. I've done a lot of research and trial-and-error. I would consider the following a huge improvement over stock, but as aviation has taught me throughout the years, nothing is bulletproof.

Front:
- 29mm (LSD).
- 10K fluid.
- Arrma 061 aluminum diff case.
- Vitavon ring and pinion gear set.
- Vitavon spider gear set.
- Mugen shims throughout.
- M2C Racing outdrives.
- Mugen outdrive pins.
- Vitavon bulkhead.

Center:
- 31mm
- 100k fluid.
- Arrma 050 aluminum diff case.
- OEM ring and pinion gear set.
- M2C Racing outdrives.
- M2C outdrive pins.
- All-Mugen spider gears and shims.

Rear:
- 29mm (open).
- 60k fluid.
- Arrma 061 aluminum diff case.
- Vitavon ring and pinion gear set.
- Vitavon spider gear set.
- M2C Racing outdrives.
- Mugen outdrive pins.
- Vitavon bulkhead.

Vitavon? M2C? That's all too much....and too much money.

 

[MrTitanium]

Vitavon? M2C? That's all too much....and too much money.

Understandable statement as I can sympathize. But:

Buy once, cry once.

 

[Shadows]

I have a Kraton 6s EXB, the older one not sure what V that is. But I also have a stretched truggy Typhon and want to make them to the point where they’re interchangeable. The more I read on diff cases the more I’m getting confused. Pulled my secondhand Typhon apart for diff fluid and found out that it has a plastic diff case, so I’m wanting to go metal case. I’m looking at this setup from RCAWD.
View attachment 346576
Or do I need to go with this one to match the Kraton?
View attachment 346577

Also am I right in my guess of me changing to the similar Kraton diff I can’t use the Typhon outdrives and input? And I’ll have to get all new diff internals and cups?

I wouldn't even go near that RCAWD stuff. I see that it's a 29mm case, but it's set up like any standard open diff. It should have the limited slip plates, or the thick washers like ARRMA uses to make it an open differential. This is strange. It's not correct. Steer clear away from it. I'm sorry but changing a whole diff set in a model is just plain expensive. There's no way around it. But stay with ARRMA's aluminum diff cups for 29mm EXB. Use ARRMA's ring & input gears too. Companies like RC AWD use steel that's too hardened, making it brittle. The teeth will crack apart like glass. With EXB diffs, you don't need to use any other brand shims inside the diff cups. If it's for a Typhon, you would have to increase your motor's pinion size because the the EXB's input gear is a lower ratio. As for whether to stay with a regular 31mm diff for the center.... that's up to you. Your decision. But for the standard 31mm diffs, you actually do want the Mugen Seiki shims. As for the viscosity of the diff oils.... that's up to you. It's a preference thing.

Understandable statement as I can sympathize. But:

Buy once, cry once.

Vitavon ring and pinions are not better than ARRMA's EXB. Vitavon is completely unnecessary. As far as diff gear internals, (sun and satellite gears) they're more sacrificial as silicone is a lousy lubricant for metal anyway. M2C outdrives are better, but this person's budget may not be what YOU can afford. Stock ones in a lighter Typhon should last a while. The stock outdrives in EXB diffs fit the pins better than the 31mm diffs, so the only benefit from M2C's would be longer wearing steel around the driveshafts. Fancy M2C outdrives are really only needed for heavy, upgraded Kratons running 6th scale power.

Edit. To keep the differential ring and input gears in good shape, you don't need a hyped up, overpriced set from Vitavon. What you need is to check the bearings before or after every run. Diffs fail most often from the bearings getting worn and too loose, which make the gears go out of alignment. You should shim both the input gear, and ring gear as close together as possible without binding. That with good bearings are enough. Fancier name gears will not hold up better if the bearings fail.

 

[GraniteFox]

Could not agree more. Skip the RCAWD and stick with the Arrma diffs. I would run the plastic case until failure. The most important diff to go metal case it the center as it heats up significantly more than the front & rear. I have not found any issues running the front & rear 29mm EXB diff cases.