Outcast The Outcast 4S V2.5

[PittsburghJason]

Great hobby! Got started at the beginning of this year and never looked back.

Here is my "fully upgraded" monster:

Specs:

Electronics -

Hobbywing Max8 G2S ESC with Bluetooth programming
Hobbywing 4268SD 2500Kv motor cooled by 2 rocket fans
SMC 5200mah 150C battery

Steering -

Reefs Rc RAW 500HD servo running at 8.4v
Hot Racing steering bellcranks with horn cut Treal servo saver mod

Gears -

14T motor pinion
Reinforced Steel 57T Spur Gear
Hot Racing Differential case front and rear
Hot Racing diff yokes
Hot Racing hardened steel ring and pinion in front diff
Aluminum center gear box
Hot Racing center driveshaft
Aluminum center driveshaft bearing holder
Arrma HD axles
Fast Eddie bearings

Suspension -

6s shocks with 90wt fluid
Integy shock tower protection braces
Integy aluminum wheelie bar
RCAWD steel pivot balls

Body -

ProbodyRC 3mm unbreakable body
Oktays front bumper
M2C chassis brace
M2C hinge blocks


Pretty bulletproof with the upgrades, even if I don't land on the wheels. I need to tighten up the wiring, but really no more upgrades planned at this time which is sad because I like upgrading. Driving is the most fun, especially with this monster!

 

[Glitch]

Looks pretty much fully upgraded! Nicely done! I'd heard the RCAWD pivot balls are really sloppy.

 

[PittsburghJason]

Looks pretty much fully upgraded! Nicely done! I'd heard the RCAWD pivot balls are really sloppy.

Thanks! I had aluminum pivot balls and switched to steel. Both types are the same size as stock so the same slop. Mainly the plastic rod ends wear out and create more slop.

 

[KnowAir]

Thanks! I had aluminum pivot balls and switched to steel. Both types are the same size as stock so the same slop. Mainly the plastic rod ends wear out and create more slop.

Good call. Aluminum pivots are okay for racing or speed running, and the "hard coated" aluminum pivot balls seem to hold up well, but for all out durability and cost, nothing beats steel IMO. Nice rig!!

 

[Just a hobby]

Truck looks nice!!! I tried the rc4wd pivot balls with brand new ends,way too much slop. Took them all out and got HR pivot balls.

 

[Glitch]

Have y’all seen the KA_RC pivot balls on eBay? Look like maybe the best option.

 

[KnowAir]

Is it possible to use links and pivot balls from the 6s line Arrma's? Or any 1/8 scale M4 rod ends and pivots that matches up would be better than the plastic pivot balls I would think?

 

[Just a hobby]

Have y’all seen the KA_RC pivot balls on eBay? Look like maybe the best option.

Thank you,will have to try them.

Is it possible to use links and pivot balls from the 6s line Arrma's? Or any 1/8 scale M4 rod ends and pivots that matches up would be better than the plastic pivot balls I would think?

The pivot balls might be to long.

 

[Just a hobby]

Truck looks nice!!! I tried the rc4wd pivot balls with brand new ends,way too much slop. Took them all out and got HR pivot balls.

Glitch just told me about this ebay seller. Has 6s parts to. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1663268583...zbksbv6rzo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[PittsburghJason]

Have y’all seen the KA_RC pivot balls on eBay? Look like maybe the best option.

I don't think the pivot balls are the problem. It's the plastic rod ends that "waller" out.

The problem is the pivot ball screw hole is an m3 screw and the shafts are 5mm and everywhere only sells links with matching holes.

Also Arrma has the rear links mistakenly labeled as M4x95. They are M5x95 and the fronts are M5x85, both with M3 pivot balls.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/steel-turnbuckle-m4-x-95mm-black-2/ARA330717.html

We could try some tough m3 shafts to go with m3 pivot ball holes that are available, but 2mm smaller for a link shaft is a big deal so that is a no.

I am thinking shop for an all metal M5 sized link with something to adapt the M5 pivot balls to M3 holes. Anyone know of an adapter we could use? I am thinking m3 rivet maybe?

 

[KnowAir]

I don't think the pivot balls are the problem. It's the plastic rod ends that "waller" out.

The problem is the pivot ball screw hole is an m3 screw and the shafts are 5mm and everywhere only sells links with matching holes.

Also Arrma has the rear links mistakenly labeled as M4x95. They are M5x95 and the fronts are M5x85, both with M3 pivot balls.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/steel-turnbuckle-m4-x-95mm-black-2/ARA330717.html

We could try some tough m3 shafts to go with m3 pivot ball holes that are available, but 2mm smaller for a link shaft is a big deal so that is a no.

I am thinking shop for an all metal M5 sized link with something to adapt the M5 pivot balls to M3 holes. Anyone know of an adapter we could use? I am thinking m3 rivet maybe?

The pivot ball screws on 6s are 3mm too. I understand there may be clearance issues with the height of the actual pivot ball from a 6s too though. Not sure on that one. The 6s use 5mm camber links, 4mm steer links. Maybe the KC parts might be the easiest solution, IDK. But I have to say the plastic pivot balls are a real boner killer with the 3 and 4s lines from Arrma. Even TRX knows better, c'mon Arrma!! LOL.

 

[Glitch]

The pivot ball screws on 6s are 3mm too. I understand there may be clearance issues with the height of the actual pivot ball from a 6s too though. Not sure on that one. The 6s use 5mm camber links, 4mm steer links. Maybe the KC parts might be the easiest solution, IDK. But I have to say the plastic pivot balls are a real boner killer with the 3 and 4s lines from Arrma. Even TRX knows better, c'mon Arrma!! LOL.

It’s so ridiculous, Arrma selling a $500 rig with plastic pivots! After I wear out my current set, I’ll be getting the KC ones

 

[KnowAir]

It’s so ridiculous, Arrma selling a $500 rig with plastic pivots! After I wear out my current set, I’ll be getting the KC ones

I like the idea of an Arrma 4s, but not sure I can get behind their rendition of it. Too much plastic for my liking. We know a plastic chassis can and does work, but why they insist on things like plastic/metal hybrid drivetrain I can't understand. Just make them all metal already, they obviously don't need to be as meaty as the 6s line, just scale the 6s parts down a bit and call it done? Same for the steering setup, too complicated or maybe just not strong enough, IDK, but most vids I see people mention understeer. Then the plastic pivot balls, grr.. sorry, I know many like them, no offense intended. I just don't know if there's enough there for the money to buy it.

 

[Just a hobby]

We'll have to wait for the 4s v6.5 for all that to come true. It would be nice if their was less plastic. It's the size,weight and less to take apart for repairs. I know it sounds odd,it's the weight that I have to avoid with my spine issues. I'm so tempted to buy a 6s. All that nice looking aluminum parts red and black parts. One day I won't be able to resist a good sale!! If I didn't get HR yokes and HD spiral diff gears for f/b at 50% off I probably would have 6s instead of 4s. The price would be crazy that's got to be the reason for no metal?

 

[KnowAir]

We'll have to wait for the 4s v6.5 for all that to come true. It would be nice if their was less plastic. It's the size,weight and less to take apart for repairs. I know it sounds odd,it's the weight that I have to avoid with my spine issues. I'm so tempted to buy a 6s. All that nice looking aluminum parts red and black parts. One day I won't be able to resist a good sale!! If I didn't get HR yokes and HD spiral diff gears for f/b at 50% off I probably would have 6s instead of 4s. The price would be crazy that's got to be the reason for no metal?

I understand, and definitely not saying one is bad, one is good..each has it's merits. Seeing a 4s Arrma hit 50 out of the box is impressive to me. They're very "lively" on 4s vs a 6s rig being run on 4s. As to cost of plastic vs metal, I have no idea TBH. But seeing the price difference of $470 for 4s vs $550 for 6 doesn't really sound like it?

 

[Just a hobby]

On Jenny's rc not much of a difference in price. Expensive no matter what direction we go!! What ones pocket can afford and at the moment. Buy 4s one can also get 2 or 3 lipos to go with it for same price.
Then again I no nothing!!
I think??

 

[KnowAir]

I stand corrected, $450 for the 4s now. Last I knew was $470. Sorry.

Also FWIW, the 6s is on sale currently for "Arrmageddon" @$470.. how ironic, LOL.

 

[Just a hobby]

I stand corrected, $450 for the 4s now. Last I knew was $470. Sorry.

Also FWIW, the 6s is on sale currently for "Arrmageddon" @$470.. how ironic, LOL.

That kind of sale would get me if I was looking for a new rc. The price was lowered I believe when the v2.5 was released.

 

[KnowAir]

I think there is a seat for every a$$, or however that saying goes, LOL.
If you have a beefed up 4s and are happy with it, all good!

I like to run all my beaters at home, on my own track 99% of the time. For me, 4s is it.. perfect. Now, a 6s rig on 4s can be a bit slow, but a lightweight truggy or buggy on 4s is really impressive. So my brother and I run all kinds of rc's on different battery configurations to get the best combination of performance and durability. A Tekno truggy on 4s is very quick, but then so is a 6s Typhon running on 4s.. in my use, I can easily see a 4s Arrma Kraton being a real treat to run.

 

[PittsburghJason]

Found and ordered an Outcast 4s mount for the Max8 esc from ebay. I could not figure out a good way to mount the max8 because it is so big that it covers the receiver box lid screws so the esc would need removed before the lid screws came off which is impossible when they are covered and to remove the esc the lid needs to come off. I only got one screw in because of this problem and on an impact broke the esc mount already. Luckily found this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295176484296?var=593638379900