Sloppety Slop Kraton 6S new build

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Cake Boss
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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
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So after replacing almost everything on my new Kraton build, FastEddy bearings, HR Hubs, HR Bellcrank with a carbon fiber Ackerman HR Servo saver, new cvd axels, HR brackets there still was slop in it, a lot actually, after trying different things and tweaking out the whole suspension system, I decided to dump the push on spacers on the upper arms, front and rear, I ordered me some metric Nylon washers with different thicknesses, and wow this thing is tight like a @#%$&$, no binding anywhere. It's truly worth it to replace the spacers with washers. I figure I share, but you guys already done that I bet lol.

71fl0xqaz3L._SL1500_.jpg
 
So after replacing almost everything on my new Kraton build, FastEddy bearings, HR Hubs, HR Bellcrank with a carbon fiber Ackerman HR Servo saver, new cvd axels, HR brackets there still was slop in it, a lot actually, after trying different things and tweaking out the whole suspension system, I decided to dump the push on spacers on the upper arms, front and rear, I ordered me some metric Nylon washers with different thicknesses, and wow this thing is tight like a @#%$&$, no binding anywhere. It's truly worth it to replace the spacers with washers. I figure I share, but you guys already done that I bet lol.

View attachment 195977

I really tried to tighten up everything with these same washers at first, but now I use less and less. I would be a bit selective of where you put them, they don't need to be absolutely everywhere - the car could drive worse with the additional suspension friction. It's a fine line.
 
With the shocks disconnected at the lower arms, the arms should drop loosely enough under their own weight. Moving them Up and letting them drop down. And not hang up. Best way to judge if shimmed too tight or there are hinge pin binding issues. Bent ones etc.
 
There is no friction anywhere on this rig, at least not yet, I will post a video later on without shocks, only little slob I got is between the cvd axle and the hub.
I used these ones on the ends of the axels. On the outside of the hub, between the wheel nut and hub. But when I moved to the hot racing hubs, tolerances were tight enough I stopped using them. With the plastic hubs I needed about 3 per wheel. With the hot racing i used only 1 ( and now none)

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-8x12x0.2mm-shim-5-kyo96773/p37360


Good luck
 
I used these ones on the ends of the axels. On the outside of the hub, between the wheel nut and hub. But when I moved to the hot racing hubs, tolerances were tight enough I stopped using them. With the plastic hubs I needed about 3 per wheel. With the hot racing i used only 1 ( and now none)

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-8x12x0.2mm-shim-5-kyo96773/p37360


Good luck
Thanks man, yeah it's all brand new, also the rear is the only place with too much slop in it, when I check the play between the axle and the out drive, it's about a mill off.
 
A tick of play is just fine. So the BB's don't have any radial binding. Being too tight. Matching left slop to right slop is what matters most IMHO. To some this is splitting hairs for a basher, however.
But taking it to the next level of precision is purely subjective. Go for it.
 
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