Kraton Why Do All Arrma RC's End Up Pulling to One Side?

[Camaroboy383]

i knew motors CAN spin in either direction just honestly didnt know if they all did or if there was an industry standard or something. BTW im only talking about "forward" direction with the same electrical input.
i don't care how many gears you put after any given motor it will always spin the same direction with the same electrical input.

There is not an industry standard for rotation.. Nor is there a "Forward" direction, it's counter clockwise, or clockwise.. The engineering of the gear sets dictates final rotation....

Your last statement is correct, but we are conveniently able to change pole positions via the esc or a wire swap..

 

[419RC]

Ultimately is comes down to torque twist, weight, suspension, tires...everything. These are NOT precise machines. They cost a few hundred dollars. If you cruise at X speed and mash the throttle, weight transfer to the rear will allow your front tires to unload (even if they don't go airborne) and there are more pivot points which induce variables. Even in a high power awd vehicle, if you mash the throttle you get a small torque steer, if you took your hands off the steering wheel youd certainly see it....but no on wants to try that. DIfferent length center and axle driveshafts will have a different torque and unload at a fraction of a second different. All minor but ultimately cause these issues.

Id be curious to see a comparison of a 1/8 scale vs a 1:1 car given the weight to power ratio to see what it compares to.

it'll never go away. live with it or get AVC.

 

[fish]

Ultimately is comes down to torque twist, weight, suspension, tires...everything. These are NOT precise machines. They cost a few hundred dollars. If you cruise at X speed and mash the throttle, weight transfer to the rear will allow your front tires to unload (even if they don't go airborne) and there are more pivot points which induce variables. Even in a high power awd vehicle, if you mash the throttle you get a small torque steer, if you took your hands off the steering wheel youd certainly see it....but no on wants to try that. DIfferent length center and axle driveshafts will have a different torque and unload at a fraction of a second different. All minor but ultimately cause these issues.

Id be curious to see a comparison of a 1/8 scale vs a 1:1 car given the weight to power ratio to see what it compares to.

it'll never go away. live with it or get AVC.

Yes, SO True.

What im learning so far is that everything matters, and not all moments are the same.
If I drop some oil in the pivot balls before I go out, its a better run then if I didn't.

Tires, Tires, Tires, temps and Tires make so much difference and i want to re-tune to each type. Gets annoying.
Road Surface, how it moves the car and how well it can actually grip it. My new ashfault driveay is Insainly good! 10 timess sharper handling then the street it connects to which is Better than the main road its connected too. Go Figure.
So Much variation.

I was just Ripping up and down my block and corner street, testing and fixing.
Scarring the kids and neighbors more so (moms!) because the car is rather violent!

I had Gold Hoons 107's on one of the cars today and you can feel/see and hear the cacophony; weight, torque, suspension moving, flexing and tires ripping on all corners trying to find traction. Direction changing a dozen times, AVC tryng to help - ALL in like 2-3 seconds a rip.
Then turn around and do it again, and again. Each rip is different, in one way or another.
Its not easy staying straight and in control, even with AVC, at 65-75 mph with these Nutty Little Things! Unless the road is Really Really good and flat.
Have to remember the character of different parts of the pavement you frequent. It helps. Like that F'in manhole cover I launched over at 70 today, lucky the curb was there to catch me when I landed

With the Buggy Tires, its Much easier staying straight and seemingly more so in control.

 

[King blitz]

Yes, SO True.

What im learning so far is that everything matters, and not all moments are the same.
If I drop some oil in the pivot balls before I go out, its a better run then if I didn't.

Tires, Tires, Tires, temps and Tires make so much difference and i want to re-tune to each type. Gets annoying.
Road Surface, how it moves the car and how well it can actually grip it. My new ashfault driveay is Insainly good! 10 timess sharper handling then the street it connects to which is Better than the main road its connected too. Go Figure.
So Much variation.

I was just Ripping up and down my block and corner street, testing and fixing.
Scarring the kids and neighbors more so (moms!) because the car is rather violent!

I had Gold Hoons 107's on one of the cars today and you can feel/see and hear the cacophony; weight, torque, suspension moving, flexing and tires ripping on all corners trying to find traction. Direction changing a dozen times, AVC tryng to help - ALL in like 2-3 seconds a rip.
Then turn around and do it again, and again. Each rip is different, in one way or another.
Its not easy staying straight and in control, even with AVC, at 65-75 mph with these Nutty Little Things! Unless the road is Really Really good and flat.
Have to remember the character of different parts of the pavement you frequent. It helps. Like that F'in manhole cover I launched over at 70 today, lucky the curb was there to catch me when I landed

With the Buggy Tires, its Much easier staying straight and seemingly more so in control.

I noticed buggy tires do give me also a straighter pass.over my hoons or slicks or foam .

 

[pjmofperk]

I'm really stumped on this one. I have owned 6 Arrma RC's - Krayton 6s, Krayton 4s V2, Big Rock (2), and Granite (2). Over time, say at 20-30 packs, EVERY SINGLE RC developed a situation where they would pull to one side or the other while the car is under acceleration. It's consistently to one side (e.g. always left or right), sometimes the pull is gradual and sometimes its abrupt (like an immediate hitch or pitch to one side). Tinkering with the steering trip does not help at all. I've checked them all to make sure there bearings are clean and all the wheels turn freely. Also, on my Big Rocks, Granites, and Kraton 6s, I have upgraded the steering servo, servo saver, and steering racks (on the 3s rigs thats the part the steering servo attaches to) and they all still do the same darn thing.

Any idea what could be causing this? I was thinking about getting a new front diff for each RC, but before I do I thought I would ask. Besides, replacing the front diff every 20 packs would be lame at best, especially because I am pretty easy on my trucks (no jumps).

Any idea at all what this could be?

I dropped a brand new front diff in my Granite 3s and now it pulls so hard to the left. Even with steering adjusted all the way on the radio. It was fine with old diff. I bought a new diff because I stripped a screw on the original one.

 

[King blitz]

I dropped a brand new front diff in my Granite 3s and now it pulls so hard to the left. Even with steering adjusted all the way on the radio. It was fine with old diff. I bought a new diff because I stripped a screw on the original one.

Change the rear also.its new and I think it's fighting the rear .everytime I change out something and it has a pair I change both.. like tires shocks ..like a real car .you wouldn't want to just do break pads on just one side or rotors .allways do them in pairs..but I'm only suggesting that for your diff.i could be wrong but I'm sure it's cheap enough to try