2023 Arrma Kraton 6s EXB Make Ready and Tuning

[phm14]

6-7 packs on this truck now, and everything seems to be holding together, after a good thumping. No leaks, or any other damage to report, after 2 sessions, running a combination of 4s and 6s packs.

1st up, solder on a XT90 battery connector-love this soldering jig

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Has the ESC gave you any problems? I’ve heard it was having some issues. I also heard that the release date had been pushed back to straighten it out. I already have kratons but sure as hell still want this one.

 

[phm14]

Checked the truck over-screws tight, set punch from level 4 default, to 7. Ride height OK. Balanced the Copperhead tires, as well as a new set of 6s Backflips. The backflips were 1.5oz heavier, per corner, and took more balancing clay than the Copperheads. Took a half a bar of balancing clay, to do 8 6s wheels (that's a lot, coming from 8th scale buggies) The rear skid is a RPM piece.

I had seen where guys were having the front shock mounts punch through the body, even on the 1st session. I also liked the rear dirt guards on the new K4s, so I broke out a sheet of 1mm lexan, and made some dirt guards, and a panel to cover those front shock mounts. From the witness marks, they're doing good work already.

Has the ESC gave you any problems? I’ve heard it was having some issues. I also heard that the release date had been pushed back to straighten it out. I already have kratons but sure as hell still want this one.

My box had been opened when it arrived, last Saturday. No sign of the brake-drag-on-deceleration issue. They are shipping all 6s EXBs, and anything else using this ESC, with the firmware update already done, as far as I can tell. Turns out my Hobbywing program card works with the ESC, used to increase punch setting.

 

[Av642]

Checked the truck over-screws tight, set punch from level 4 default, to 7. Ride height OK. Balanced the Copperhead tires, as well as a new set of 6s Backflips. The backflips were 1.5oz heavier, per corner, and took more balancing clay than the Copperheads. Took a half a bar of balancing clay, to do 8 6s wheels (that's a lot, coming from 8th scale buggies) The rear skid is a RPM piece.

View attachment 339529

View attachment 339530
I had seen where guys were having the front shock mounts punch through the body, even on the 1st session. I also liked the rear dirt guards on the new K4s, so I broke out a sheet of 1mm lexan, and made some dirt guards, and a panel to cover those front shock mounts. From the witness marks, they're doing good work already.

View attachment 339532

View attachment 339533

View attachment 339534

My box had been opened when it arrived, last Saturday. No sign of the brake-drag-on-deceleration issue. They are shipping all 6s EXBs, and anything else using this ESC, with the firmware update already done, as far as I can tell. Turns out my Hobbywing program card works with the ESC, used to increase punch setting.

Which program cars do you have? The black one with blue writing?

Also which soldering jig is that?

 

[SrC]

Checked the truck over-screws tight, set punch from level 4 default, to 7. Ride height OK. Balanced the Copperhead tires, as well as a new set of 6s Backflips. The backflips were 1.5oz heavier, per corner, and took more balancing clay than the Copperheads. Took a half a bar of balancing clay, to do 8 6s wheels (that's a lot, coming from 8th scale buggies) The rear skid is a RPM piece.

View attachment 339529

View attachment 339530
I had seen where guys were having the front shock mounts punch through the body, even on the 1st session. I also liked the rear dirt guards on the new K4s, so I broke out a sheet of 1mm lexan, and made some dirt guards, and a panel to cover those front shock mounts. From the witness marks, they're doing good work already.

View attachment 339532

View attachment 339533

View attachment 339534

My box had been opened when it arrived, last Saturday. No sign of the brake-drag-on-deceleration issue. They are shipping all 6s EXBs, and anything else using this ESC, with the firmware update already done, as far as I can tell. Turns out my Hobbywing program card works with the ESC, used to increase punch setting.

Nice work.
All the finer details you addressed so well.

 

[phm14]

Which program cars do you have? The black one with blue writing?

Also which soldering jig is that?

The soldering jig is from Boom Racing: https://www.boomracing.com/kudu-multifunctional-soldering-jig-207840
I'll have some more comments about the K6s EXB, after I test test new servo I installed. It'll have ~17 packs through it, after that. I have both types of HW program cards. The one that's more rectangle shaped wouldn't connect. This is the one I used:

 

[SrC]

Some have stated that HW card above didn't work for their V2 Firma.
You confirmed otherwise.
It does work on my V1 Firma 150. FWIW.

 

[Av642]

Some have stated that HW card above didn't work for their V2 Firma.
You confirmed otherwise.
It does work on my V1 Firma 150. FWIW.

I feel like it's so random, maybe it depends on what firmware the esc is on.

 

[SrC]

+1

 

[phm14]

At this point, I have ~17 packs through the truck, all run to LVC. Tried turning the LVC down one level, but it was taking the batteries down, too close to 0%. Replacing the servo improved turning to the extent, that it feels like a different truck-MUCH more responsive and lively. Installing the AGF 55kg servo, did however, present a new issue. Off throttle, the truck would roll straight for a short distance, then just randomly turn itself left or right. The truck was also more apt to traction roll. I turned AVC off, using the binding process in the manual, and the ghost steer problem has vanished.
I've had 4 sessions now, with the truck, sessioning a double step up, on grass, mostly. After session 3, I noticed the ECS was no longer securely mounted. Removing the ESC plate (and seeing screws missing at bottom of chassis), confirmed the despite checking all chassis screws, 3 of 4 ESC plate screws had dropped out. Arrma used 8mm screws here, which aren't long enough to get good bite, so I replaced them all with 12mm screws.
The truck has taken a good thumping, with many cartwheels and flapjack landings right on the wing. One one the small support blades, between the the split wing, has broken, but the mount/wing are still very straight. The only body damage I have noticed is at the rear, and could be related to contact with the rear tower. I have gorilla taped the rear edge of the body, but may do a bit of trimming there on the next body I mount, to eliminate the possibility the the rear shock tower is being flexed into the rear of the body. The screws seem soft, so I'll be replacing them, as needed.
I have not touched the suspension, as it is set up fairly well, though if I hit the wrong spot on take off, the rear end can get kicked a** over tea kettle, indicating that perhaps a bit thicker oil back there may help settle the rear.
One thin I'm not crazy about, is the servo mount. In the pick below, you can see that the stock servo was rubbing on the chassis, and taking some cosmetic damage, at its' base. The overkill 55kg servo I installed was slightly taller, so I used 3mm shims to raise it off the chassis, then added a 2mm spacer, under the steering link, to level the link out. As it is, with nothing capturing the servo case at its' bottom, the servo wags around, under steering load. The servo mount screws also seemed to loosen up, after session 4, with the upgraded servo.
Overall, I like the truck. I'm thinking this one may be a keeper. I'm sure it would drive better with the HW Max 6/1650/Futaba combo I have available, but the stock electrics don't run that badly, once the weak servo and AVC issues are addressed. I am running the truck on 4s, punch 8. After the servo swap, it got more challenging to keep the rear end, behind the front. It could be turned back down to punch 7, and still wheelie and rotate very well. Nice to know that if I want more, there's headroom to move to 6s, though I would expect more crashes and breakage.

 

[razz007]

At this point, I have ~17 packs through the truck, all run to LVC. Tried turning the LVC down one level, but it was taking the batteries down, too close to 0%. Replacing the servo improved turning to the extent, that it feels like a different truck-MUCH more responsive and lively. Installing the AGF 55kg servo, did however, present a new issue. Off throttle, the truck would roll straight for a short distance, then just randomly turn itself left or right. The truck was also more apt to traction roll. I turned AVC off, using the binding process in the manual, and the ghost steer problem has vanished.
I've had 4 sessions now, with the truck, sessioning a double step up, on grass, mostly. After session 3, I noticed the ECS was no longer securely mounted. Removing the ESC plate (and seeing screws missing at bottom of chassis), confirmed the despite checking all chassis screws, 3 of 4 ESC plate screws had dropped out. Arrma used 8mm screws here, which aren't long enough to get good bite, so I replaced them all with 12mm screws.
The truck has taken a good thumping, with many cartwheels and flapjack landings right on the wing. One one the small support blades, between the the split wing, has broken, but the mount/wing are still very straight. The only body damage I have noticed is at the rear, and could be related to contact with the rear tower. I have gorilla taped the rear edge of the body, but may do a bit of trimming there on the next body I mount, to eliminate the possibility the the rear shock tower is being flexed into the rear of the body. The screws seem soft, so I'll be replacing them, as needed.
I have not touched the suspension, as it is set up fairly well, though if I hit the wrong spot on take off, the rear end can get kicked a** over tea kettle, indicating that perhaps a bit thicker oil back there may help settle the rear.
One thin I'm not crazy about, is the servo mount. In the pick below, you can see that the stock servo was rubbing on the chassis, and taking some cosmetic damage, at its' base. The overkill 55kg servo I installed was slightly taller, so I used 3mm shims to raise it off the chassis, then added a 2mm spacer, under the steering link, to level the link out. As it is, with nothing capturing the servo case at its' bottom, the servo wags around, under steering load. The servo mount screws also seemed to loosen up, after session 4, with the upgraded servo.
Overall, I like the truck. I'm thinking this one may be a keeper. I'm sure it would drive better with the HW Max 6/1650/Futaba combo I have available, but the stock electrics don't run that badly, once the weak servo and AVC issues are addressed. I am running the truck on 4s, punch 8. After the servo swap, it got more challenging to keep the rear end, behind the front. It could be turned back down to punch 7, and still wheelie and rotate very well. Nice to know that if I want more, there's headroom to move to 6s, though I would expect more crashes and breakage.

View attachment 340392

View attachment 340393

View attachment 340395

thats a good write up fella , thank you . my multi version kraton/talion/mojave mix is now going back to the kraton exb V1 that it once was , got lots of V2 parts coming from jennys to slowly convert. i notice you run 4s , i use 4s a lot in my kraton , mainly cos i`m running on the lawn and its tight and not that big , i use 4s 120c packs on a 14t pinion. whats your 4s pack n pinion please ? i also prefer the Backflip LP on the lawn too . looking forward to reading more of your findings

 

[phm14]

thats a good write up fella , thank you . my multi version kraton/talion/mojave mix is now going back to the kraton exb V1 that it once was , got lots of V2 parts coming from jennys to slowly convert. i notice you run 4s , i use 4s a lot in my kraton , mainly cos i`m running on the lawn and its tight and not that big , i use 4s 120c packs on a 14t pinion. whats your 4s pack n pinion please ? i also prefer the Backflip LP on the lawn too . looking forward to reading more of your findings

Thanks for the kind words. I have not changed the stock 13/50 gearing. Temps have been ~105-120F, with fans running. The ESC fan was sucking in so much grass, I unplugged the fans, and tempts went up over 170, so I plugged them back in. Definitely room to go up, even with the stock motor/ESC. I have a set of new 6s Backflips I bought to try. Have you driven the Copperhead 2s? The BFs are a little heavier...I'll give them a try, after a session with a properly functioning servo.

 

[razz007]

Thanks for the kind words. I have not changed the stock 13/50 gearing. Temps have been ~105-120F, with fans running. The ESC fan was sucking in so much grass, I unplugged the fans, and tempts went up over 170, so I plugged them back in. Definitely room to go up, even with the stock motor/ESC. I have a set of new 6s Backflips I bought to try. Have you driven the Copperhead 2s? The BFs are a little heavier...I'll give them a try, after a session with a properly functioning servo.

i have copperhead 2 , copperhead 2 LP , Backflip LP and for pure sillyness , a set of the sketer 4s tyres n wheels . the sketer tyres combo , although look small , are awesome for a fast grass tracking fun on 6s , but they destroy my lawn . for me , backflip LP are the bestest 4s lawn tyre , copperhead 2 are great with a wet lawn , copperheads wobble too much , but mine have been drenched many times indeed , i haven't tried the 6s backflips i`m afraid . as a note , i try to stay away from the big copperheads as i seem to break it more with those on , but thats just me hitting walls and trees and poor landings

 

[phm14]

4 more packs through the Kraton. 6s Backflips seemed just slightly less prone to traction roll, than the stock CH2s. Tried a set of Minikawas, and those all but eleiminated tration rolls, with a ~.6" less diameter, lowering CG, and less bite.
Here's a 2nd Duperbash beat down. Cracked (but still run-able) upper control arm, and the same body cracks I mentioned above.

 

[parcou]

4 more packs through the Kraton. 6s Backflips seemed just slightly less prone to traction roll, than the stock CH2s. Tried a set of Minikawas, and those all but eleiminated tration rolls, with a ~.6" less diameter, lowering CG, and less bite.
Here's a 2nd Duperdash beat down. Cracked (but still run-able) upper control arm, and the same body cracks I mentioned above.

Keep in mind.... He is on a different level. It's good to watch, but know what lane you drive in. I watch him, but I take the bits that are practical to me.

I hate traction roll. Also, I go for a wider stance in almost all my basher 6S rigs. I add the M2C 5mm Hex extender. This little bit makes a difference, as he said when he added it to his Fireteam. I like to stay with the 4S BF tires...that is a personal choice.

Where and how you bash makes a big difference. I do not bash on hard surfaces. I like dirt or dead loose grass (no gravel). I want to get some slip from the tries. If (rare) I bash in all grass which has a lot of traction, I put on some Sweeps or Trencher tires for slip on the grass so it does not track and traction roll (BF will bite and traction roll). I put tires on based on the condition I will run/bash.

 

[phm14]

Keep in mind.... He is on a different level. It's good to watch, but know what lane you drive in. I watch him, but I take the bits that are practical to me.

I hate traction roll. Also, I go for a wider stance in almost all my basher 6S rigs. I add the M2C 5mm Hex extender. This little bit makes a difference, as he said when he added it to his Fireteam. I like to stay with the 4S BF tires...that is a personal choice.

Where and how you bash makes a big difference. I do not bash on hard surfaces. I like dirt or dead loose grass (no gravel). I want to get some slip from the tries. If (rare) I bash in all grass which has a lot of traction, I put on some Sweeps or Trencher tires for slip on the grass so it does not track and traction roll (BF will bite and traction roll). I put tires on based on the condition I will run/bash.

I've run the CH2s, 6s BFs, and a set of Minokawas I had lying around. I'm running mainly on cut grass, & a little hard pack. I like the lack of traction roll inducing side bite on the Minokawas, and they're cheap, if you can find them. I picked up another set, for grass/concrete. Three more packs on the truck, since the last update, for a total of 23 4s packs, plus one 6s, all run to LVC. Average run time is, conservatively, ~13.5 minutes, from several timed runs. That's 324 minutes, or 5.4 hours of bashing, with zero breakages. The typical small cracks at the rear edge of the body, is all I can mention. Very pleasantly surprised. Got some cones, to set up a figure 8, on a side hill, which is fun, and good practice for when I head back to the off road track.

 

[phm14]

Another 2 packs through the EXB, this past weekend, for a total of 25 packs. Wing mount cross brace (at top) split. Stitched it up, with some zip ties. Amain will have the mount in stock soon (they have to ad a stock # to list it on the site. Jennys has it lumped in with other plastics for ~$67. BTW, Amain has a 15% off code: NCJ24

Bottom of chassis plate looking good, w RPM skid

 

[RCbuzz]

At this point, I have ~17 packs through the truck, all run to LVC. Tried turning the LVC down one level, but it was taking the batteries down, too close to 0%. Replacing the servo improved turning to the extent, that it feels like a different truck-MUCH more responsive and lively. Installing the AGF 55kg servo, did however, present a new issue. Off throttle, the truck would roll straight for a short distance, then just randomly turn itself left or right. The truck was also more apt to traction roll. I turned AVC off, using the binding process in the manual, and the ghost steer problem has vanished.
I've had 4 sessions now, with the truck, sessioning a double step up, on grass, mostly. After session 3, I noticed the ECS was no longer securely mounted. Removing the ESC plate (and seeing screws missing at bottom of chassis), confirmed the despite checking all chassis screws, 3 of 4 ESC plate screws had dropped out. Arrma used 8mm screws here, which aren't long enough to get good bite, so I replaced them all with 12mm screws.
The truck has taken a good thumping, with many cartwheels and flapjack landings right on the wing. One one the small support blades, between the the split wing, has broken, but the mount/wing are still very straight. The only body damage I have noticed is at the rear, and could be related to contact with the rear tower. I have gorilla taped the rear edge of the body, but may do a bit of trimming there on the next body I mount, to eliminate the possibility the the rear shock tower is being flexed into the rear of the body. The screws seem soft, so I'll be replacing them, as needed.
I have not touched the suspension, as it is set up fairly well, though if I hit the wrong spot on take off, the rear end can get kicked a** over tea kettle, indicating that perhaps a bit thicker oil back there may help settle the rear.
One thin I'm not crazy about, is the servo mount. In the pick below, you can see that the stock servo was rubbing on the chassis, and taking some cosmetic damage, at its' base. The overkill 55kg servo I installed was slightly taller, so I used 3mm shims to raise it off the chassis, then added a 2mm spacer, under the steering link, to level the link out. As it is, with nothing capturing the servo case at its' bottom, the servo wags around, under steering load. The servo mount screws also seemed to loosen up, after session 4, with the upgraded servo.
Overall, I like the truck. I'm thinking this one may be a keeper. I'm sure it would drive better with the HW Max 6/1650/Futaba combo I have available, but the stock electrics don't run that badly, once the weak servo and AVC issues are addressed. I am running the truck on 4s, punch 8. After the servo swap, it got more challenging to keep the rear end, behind the front. It could be turned back down to punch 7, and still wheelie and rotate very well. Nice to know that if I want more, there's headroom to move to 6s, though I would expect more crashes and breakage.

View attachment 340392

View attachment 340393

View attachment 340395

Thanks for the update! Interesting on the body damage that is was back where it is protected.

 

[Aloring3]

I signed up for the Super Saver Membership a few months back and nothing showed up in my email or my account. Where do I look for the code?

 

[phm14]

I signed up for the Super Saver Membership a few months back and nothing showed up in my email or my account. Where do I look for the code?

The code listed in post 17 is for Amain, not Tower/Horizon. If your "Super Saver" membership is active on Tower, It'll be in you acct details.