Typhon Fluid recommendations...Typhon and Fireteam

[Dcmkx2001]

Bought an on sale fireteam like many others. Read that some people have run into some questionable assembly out of the box and decided to go over mine thoroughly before running. I also have a 6s typhon that only has about 6 battery packs ran through it. I am going to open up the diffs, shim if needed, and check the fluid in that as well. I've never worked on a diff before, but want to have the fluid on hand if they need some added. Going off each manual, I would 7,000, 10,000, and 200,000 to cover both vehicles.

I run the typhon mainly on pavement and I'm going to run the fireteam everywhere. I don't really jump, get my cars too dirty, and I'm a pretty conservative driver that doesn't abuse my cars like the average Arrma owner...even though I know they can take it.

Any reason to change to different weight fluids? I don't even know if I'd notice a difference if I did. Not a racer or anything. If so, what weights would you recommend?

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

I would say just check the shims and keep whatever is in there. I hardly think you'd notice any difference sense you're not really running your cars or just try different combos yourself see what you like.

 

[nomis38]

If you are just bashing then diff fluid tuning is easy and everyone has their own personal preference. If you already have the diffs apart you may as well change the fluid as it will be very light fluid usually 7 or 10k. I'd recommend for general bashing or fun 50k/200k/30k F/C/R diffs. But again that's my opinion.

 

[21STalion]

I really like the feeling of super light weights in the rear. Think I'm at 3000cst rear now, the car handles so much 'quicker', not like it's dragging it's ass around a corner.

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

I really like the feeling of super light weights in the rear. Think I'm at 3000cst rear now, the car handles so much 'quicker', not like it's dragging it's ass around a corner.

Are you on a track or just bashing or a course of some sort. The way I understand it, and please correct me, is in the center the thicker the fluid the more power the rear and vice versa. With the ends, the lighter the fluid the more limited slip action you'll get. So if you're gonna be going straight for the most part is ok to go heavy but if you're gonna need coming around corner lighter fluid will help. I use to speed run my recently converted buggy and still running the 200k in front and rear and changed the center to 10k since its so easy. I think the car handles OK on a small track we have out here but I will have to change it and see what works best. I will try the very light fluid in the rear as you suggest as there are some tight corners around the track.

 

[parcou]

Bought an on sale fireteam like many others. Read that some people have run into some questionable assembly out of the box and decided to go over mine thoroughly before running. I also have a 6s typhon that only has about 6 battery packs ran through it. I am going to open up the diffs, shim if needed, and check the fluid in that as well. I've never worked on a diff before, but want to have the fluid on hand if they need some added. Going off each manual, I would 7,000, 10,000, and 200,000 to cover both vehicles.

I run the typhon mainly on pavement and I'm going to run the fireteam everywhere. I don't really jump, get my cars too dirty, and I'm a pretty conservative driver that doesn't abuse my cars like the average Arrma owner...even though I know they can take it.

Any reason to change to different weight fluids? I don't even know if I'd notice a difference if I did. Not a racer or anything. If so, what weights would you recommend?

This is hard to answer so many RC'ers here, like power and jumpers. It comes down to how you bash and what you want to do...test fluids and see.

I do find YT'ers who bash like me, and I get their diff recommendations. Then there are bashers like Rich Duperdash I am not coming close to doing, so his basher diff fluids mean nothing to me.

You asked about a Typhon and Fireteam.

FT - I find the stock fluid perfect 10/200/10k. I am not a sender, or high speed. Bashing. But I keep the FT mainly on the ground, rough landscapes, bumpy area (tree roots, etc), hills, golf courses, and construction sites..... the rig performs like a champ. That's me. Not many here will leave it that way. If I made any adjustments and not going to now would be a classic setup to up the front and rear: 50/200/20k. If using the FT for what it was made for I do not see 500k in the center for it.... my $0.02 means nothing.

TLR Typhon - Light oil works great in this rig...basher as well but it stays on smooth dirt, nothing bumpy since it is low profile and only at 4S but with a huge 21T pinion to have speed close to a 6S without the high temps. 20/20/10k works perfectly in that rig.

I'm going for technical driving, not raw power, so those levels work for me.

Very subjective ask....find a basher who bashes like you to get a baseline but from there, find your own fluids that work for you

 

[RC-Dude]

Fireteam is fine and fun with 50k front/ 200- 500k center / 20-30k rear. 500k center if you use a larger pinion to reduce ballooning in front.

With the Typhon it's also a question of what ground you are running on. If you run mostly on pavement and gravel you might want to go to 30k front / 200k center (and lower) and 10k rear. With 50k front/200k center/ and 30k rear it does understeer and reduces fun.

 

[21STalion]

Are you on a track or just bashing or a course of some sort. The way I understand it, and please correct me, is in the center the thicker the fluid the more power the rear and vice versa. With the ends, the lighter the fluid the more limited slip action you'll get. So if you're gonna be going straight for the most part is ok to go heavy but if you're gonna need coming around corner lighter fluid will help. I use to speed run my recently converted buggy and still running the 200k in front and rear and changed the center to 10k since its so easy. I think the car handles OK on a small track we have out here but I will have to change it and see what works best. I will try the very light fluid in the rear as you suggest as there are some tight corners around the track.

I'm on a tight track mostly but it's a hybrid setup I run everywhere with only change is the wheels. But I'm always limited for space.

What I run in the front changes (sometimes as low as 7k to 10k and up to 30k max. I like 7k right now)

Middle diff is usually a million but I'm packing ear plus currently (basically locked)

And rear super light, it's converted to open actually (from exb) and beautiful at 3k.

It will "diff out" the rear when you give it too much while cornering but the feed back and control is amazing like that. So i left off and don't let it diff out.

Different strokes for different folks. Also, it's cold here. So 7k may not be as thick where you are.

My biggest complaint of the exb LSD plates is the diffs are not very consistent untill "warmed up"

 

[ArrmaFreek2022]

I'm on a tight track mostly but it's a hybrid setup I run everywhere with only change is the wheels. But I'm always limited for space.

What I run in the front changes (sometimes as low as 7k to 10k and up to 30k max. I like 7k right now)

Middle diff is usually a million but I'm packing ear plus currently (basically locked)

And rear super light, it's converted to open actually (from exb) and beautiful at 3k.

It will "diff out" the rear when you give it too much while cornering but the feed back and control is amazing like that. So i left off and don't let it diff out.

Different strokes for different folks. Also, it's cold here. So 7k may not be as thick where you are.

My biggest complaint of the exb LSD plates is the diffs are not very consistent untill "warmed up"

I would think that the LSD would be best on a track and was going to try a diff swap on my Long Typhon. I will try and go lighter in the rear and see if that does help in cornering and turning. I like light in the middle as I'm not hard on the trigger on dirt anyways so I need the most power to the dirt as I can get.
Thanks for your feedback much appreciated.

 

[21STalion]

I would think that the LSD would be best on a track and was going to try a diff swap on my Long Typhon. I will try and go lighter in the rear and see if that does help in cornering and turning. I like light in the middle as I'm not hard on the trigger on dirt anyways so I need the most power to the dirt as I can get.
Thanks for your feedback much appreciated.

The LSD diffs didn't help me at the track much, the car would not change direction quickly (Less twitchy)

I only left the front lsd intact. So I can pull the front out of a corner with moderate power.

Used to have the middle diff light but like it stiff because it feels you can use a little throttle to get the front to pull, or a lot of power to get the rear to slide around the front.

Good luck with however you go!