Granite Granite 4x4 mega brushless suggestions

[ScaleJunkie]

So I am still preety new to electric, I have read a ton here and am still pretty conflicted. I would like to move both my sons trucks (both mega 4x4) to brushless. They run mostly in grass fields of the 3 acre size with some small jumps we made. They have both roasted 2 motors each since Christmas and have a bad habit I think of just running WOT when im not around (all motors burnt up have been when I was at work). SMH, I need advice on something that won't get hot as hell and burn up under these conditions, esc, motor, and pinion. I have read tons of threads on this and I am still a little confused.PLEASE HELP! Thank you in advance. Trucks are all stock at the moment.

 

[Jeremy in WI]

I run this in mine
Hobbywing 38010203 Max10 ESC Combo with 3652SL 3300KV Brushless Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DTQPWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5D5wCbC33NKE2
I picked it because I was still green and I didn't want to have to start changing out gears and such, and this still has 3mm shaft like the brushed 550. I had absolutely no problems on 2s and stock everything else. 3s is a different story. Then it was input gears and diffs. It is pricey though... I had gift cards from gas station rewards so I didn't pay more than 10 or 15 out of pocket. There are a ton of cheaper options out there, I just can't vouch for them.

 

[Mongoose]

How much are you willing to spend? I know as little as possible but do you have max amount not to exceed?

 

[ScaleJunkie]

Don't wanna go nuts on a $220 truck, but I'm def open to suggestion if it is a set-up that will be a long term solution for them running in these abusive conditions. Forgot to mention, the trucks are running on gensacearespammers 2S 5000 mAh 50C. Up to $150 max but would like to be a lil lower if possible to stay reliable.

Edit: the motors they have roasted were each of their stock motors within a week, and now 1 more each since.

 

[ScaleJunkie]

Another thing i forgot to mention, my older son used my temp gun with the second motor, he measured it like i showed him on the can when his truck died and said it was ~190*! So I have got to figure out how to keep their temps down. I am done with this brushed setup and need something they won't cook. I will be going with the 32p slipper from the blx also.

 

[Mongoose]

That 2S lipo is why they have been cooking...good battery choice though.

What @Jeremy in WI suggested is a good choice of you are going to stick to 2S power but you will need to upgrade the drivetrain if you plan on 3S in the future.

To run 3S, you could get the BLX 100 and motor, a slipper assembly, HD input pinions and BLX diffs, motor mount and 15T pinion off JennysRC for about $170. Doing this will basically turn it into a BLX Granite.

They could run 2S for a while and throw a 3S in it once they outgrow the 2S. It will be like a new truck.

 

[Mongoose]

Another thing i forgot to mention, my older son used my temp gun with the second motor, he measured it like i showed him on the can when his truck died and said it was ~190*! So I have got to figure out how to keep their temps down. I am done with this brushed setup and need something they won't cook. I will be going with the 32p slipper from the blx also.

If you do the BLX slipper then you will need the pinion also since the pitch is different from the Mega.

 

[ScaleJunkie]

Sweet! Thanks a million guys. I was afraid it was their driving habits. I initially went with that choice of battery for longer run time. I got myself an SCX10ii and that battery lasts for like 3-4 hrs nonstop!

 

[Mongoose]

Nope it isn’t anything they did, it’s just a poor design. I will say this though, I would highly suggest a T-Bone bumper if you decide to go to 3S. It adds a lot of speed and the stock bumper probably won’t last long. Faster speeds and higher jumps equal heavier impacts lol.

3-4 hours is a really long time lol I wish my batteries would last that long but my motor would probably blow before then lol

 

[ScaleJunkie]

Yea my older son has already broken his front bumper, I epoxyed it back together for now and T-bone bumpers are also on the list of things to do. I just got a couple sets of the 81002/3 shocks from china, got here today along with some 30wt shock oil. Those will be going on tomorro, excited to see how big a difference they make.

 

[Mongoose]

I know there a lot of good reviews on them over in 50 page thread. One of the guys said he was able to use the stock shock ball in the top and didn’t need to use washers or spacers. I think he has the non-N version like you have. He just posted it today.

 

[Mongoose]

I just converted my Mega to brushless. I started a thread if you ever need to know which parts you need.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/mongoose’s-mega-to-blx-build.9994/

 

[ScaleJunkie]

The ones I ordered were the N style, but they came with the spacers for the top. I will report back on how they fit. They seem quite a bit longer.

 

[ScaleJunkie]

Thanks!

I just converted my Mega to brushless. I started a thread if you ever need to know which parts you need.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/mongoose’s-mega-to-blx-build.9994/

 

[Cheapbastard]

The heart of any system is the esc invest in a decent esc like either one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALFXX1Q/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1 or https://www.amazon.com/Hobbywing-Ez...49511761&sr=8-29&keywords=hobbywing+max10+sct these will run just about any motor you would want to throw in now or in the future. Don't know what kind of speed your looking for but a 3650 3100kv to 3500kv should work if not looking for anything too crazy plus maybe a heat sink and fan for the motor. Motors IMO can be had fairly cheap and perform well (i.e. Goolrc) they are cheap but are still more reliable than brushed motors. They are cheap enough to experiment with different sizes and kv's.

 

[ScaleJunkie]

Yea, nothing too crazy just yet, they are 9 and 11 years old. I wanna keep it pretty "tame" on 2s for now until their driving skills are better, but its for sure time to do away with the brushed motors.

 

[Cheapbastard]

I think then this motor https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Sensor...ie=UTF8&qid=1549514468&sr=8-1&keywords=3100kv would be a good choice honestly then run it with a heat sink and a fan. Upgrade later if you think it's necessary. It's not a fast motor but it's been better than a lot of brushed stuff I have had plus battery life is pretty good with it. If you think the drive line will hold up a 3660 motor would be a better long term choice though. Esc of your choice.

 

[ScaleJunkie]

All suggestion are good suggestions and will be considered. Thank you to everyone on here that is so helpful to noobs like me. Even back in the 2000s when i was in nitro, I still didn't know much about it. I am readeing, reading, learning. ?

 

[Mmcbryar]

Imo the blx100 runs nice on 2s. I would want to at least get a 3660 can motor not the 3650, little stronger. Typical and to be between 3000kv and 3800kv for these trucks. I put some impressions in another thread, running 2 trucks side by side.

If you are not looking for anything crazy, goolrc on eBay is fairly cheap. Pretty good bang for the buck if you ask me.

 

[Naters69]

That 2S lipo is why they have been cooking...good battery choice though.

What @Jeremy in WI suggested is a good choice of you are going to stick to 2S power but you will need to upgrade the drivetrain if you plan on 3S in the future.

To run 3S, you could get the BLX 100 and motor, a slipper assembly, HD input pinions and BLX diffs, motor mount and 15T pinion off JennysRC for about $170. Doing this will basically turn it into a BLX Granite.

They could run 2S for a while and throw a 3S in it once they outgrow the 2S. It will be like a new truck.

I bought the blx diffs from jennys, I have the esc and motor installed. The input shaft keeps breaking on 2s. Can I just drop in the blx diffs I bought from jennys? That way I can have the HD input shaft.