Senton I knew I was going to regret running through the TALL grass

[Grasshopper72]

I knew I was going to regret running through the TALL grass. In hindsight it was a good thing I had to totally disassemble my car. Found an arm that was about to blow out and 2 bad bearings. Bearings had less than 4 packs on them. Granted I drive it like it's stolen but still....

 

[rkj__]

Yeah, the bearings are incredibly disappointing. I’ve had a couple seize up on me, and now it seems that I’m starting to experience a wheel bearing failure. Unfortunately, a quality bearing kit is not cheap for me, especially if it is coming from the USA, since the value of a Canadian dollar has fallen off a cliff recently. I’ll have to look into it further.

 

[Grasshopper72]

Yeah, the bearings are incredibly disappointing. I’ve had a couple seize up on me, and now it seems that I’m starting to experience a wheel bearing failure. Unfortunately, a quality bearing kit is not cheap for me, especially if it is coming from the USA, since the value of a Canadian dollar has fallen off a cliff recently. I’ll have to look into it further.

These were Fast Eddie's. Thought they were good.

 

[rflx]

I knew I was going to regret running through the TALL grass. In hindsight it was a good thing I had to totally disassemble my car. Found an arm that was about to blow out and 2 bad bearings. Bearings had less than 4 packs on them. Granted I drive it like it's stolen but still....

I really regret not getting a shroud for my senton right when i bought it. Right now im doing a deep clean (will probably take a few more days) and then my Senton's private parts shall remain forever hidden under dusty motors lingerie unless its sitting on the workbench.
I also intend to put copious amounts of grease on all the openings i can spot, since the Senton seems to love stowing whatever sand it happens upon in the insides of the drivetrain. Can somebody tell me whether this is a good idea?

*Edit: Regarding the bearings - I have swapped most of the stock bearings for various sealed ones i found online. Nothing fancy. I am far too lazy to do stuff like blow drying after each run. My strategy so far has been to just very liberally apply WD40 (claims to displace water) as close to the bearings as i can get without dissassembling anything (the WD40 can has a very handy straw attachement). It takes one are two minutes. For now (after maybe 4 or 5 wet runs, 2 of which ended with the truck under a garden hose) this seems to do the trick.

 

[rkj__]

These were Fast Eddie's. Thought they were good.

Oh man, I guess the abuse we put our trucks through takes its toll.

 

[pl9171]

I also intend to put copious amounts of grease on all the openings i can spot, since the Senton seems to love stowing whatever sand it happens upon in the insides of the drivetrain. Can somebody tell me whether this is a good idea?

After each track session, even with a shroud, I open all the power module of our 3s line and clean it with a vacuum. I add a little drop of Hob e lub Premium at motor base shaft. Not more. I don't grease for grease.
Same thing for the 6s line. (picture)
Since 2018, motors are still running good. One is "grinchy" (shaft a little bit loose), but ok

 

[Grasshopper72]

After each track session, even with a shroud, I open all the power module of our 3s line and clean it with a vacuum. I add a little drop of Hob e lub Premium at motor base shaft. Not more. I don't grease for grease.
Same thing for the 6s line. (picture)
Since 2018, motors are still running good. One is "grinchy" (shaft a little bit loose), but ok

I do the same thing. I've gotten where I can fully disassemble/ clean/lubricate/reassemble my car in about 20 minutes now. It could be faster but I still have the stupid little tire wrench they give you.

 

[Cosshog]

Guy at my Hobby shop recommended this (see below)for my son's car which was pretty beat up starting to rust/ corrosion from Ohio salt. We cleaned his car and applied it is non conductive do hitting electronics doesn't hurt just wipe off. After a day i wiped it off and son of a gun that thing looked really good alot off rust even wiped off. I Applied it to my car that i just got. Hobby shop guy said he recommends to everyone even though they don't carry it, i got on Amazon.
Corrosion-X 90104 Heavy-Duty, 12-Ounce, Aerosol

 

[SrC]

Corrosion-X is far from the best lubricant for RC bearings. (useless) I don't even like Corrosion-X for its intended purpose as a di-electric. If I need a di-electric, I use a silicone based di-electric Grease. If I want to WP my electrics, I use a Silicone modified Conformal coating on my disassembled electrics. All the videos of Corrosion-X don't impress me. It has a purpose, just not for my RC gear.

 

[SrC]

I really regret not getting a shroud for my senton right when i bought it. Right now im doing a deep clean (will probably take a few more days) and then my Senton's private parts shall remain forever hidden under dusty motors lingerie unless its sitting on the workbench.
I also intend to put copious amounts of grease on all the openings i can spot, since the Senton seems to love stowing whatever sand it happens upon in the insides of the drivetrain. Can somebody tell me whether this is a good idea?

*Edit: Regarding the bearings - I have swapped most of the stock bearings for various sealed ones i found online. Nothing fancy. I am far too lazy to do stuff like blow drying after each run. My strategy so far has been to just very liberally apply WD40 (claims to displace water) as close to the bearings as i can get without dissassembling anything (the WD40 can has a very handy straw attachement). It takes one are two minutes. For now (after maybe 4 or 5 wet runs, 2 of which ended with the truck under a garden hose) this seems to do the trick.

That WD40's "handy straw" makes it handy enough to destroy those bearings. Trying to remove water from the bearings is key. Unfortunately, WD will remove the grease and ingress more dirt into the bearing. Water destroys chromium bearings . Period. If you like running in water, get Stainless steel bearings. Bearings in general must be disassembled to service them. To Clean and Relube. There is simply no other way around it.

 

[Cosshog]

Maybe i was not being clear corrosion X is not for the bearings i use it on the rest of the car to umm prevent corrosion and it works great for that intended purpose for me.

 

[SrC]

Maybe i was not being clear corrosion X is not for the bearings i use it on the rest of the car to umm prevent corrosion and it works great for that intended purpose for me.

What parts are of your rig specifically are you trying to prevent corrosion? C-X is messy and attracts dirt and embedded dirt wears out parts . I don't have any corrosion issues with any RC parts. My stuff gets wet at times with dew of grass and accidental puddles. CX is expensive too. Just don't see it as any viable option for my RC's. I used it on other stuff around the house. Its rare that I need it for any specific purpose as a go to. R
edit:
Road salt is a problem here in NY also. They spread salt even if there is no snow. I don't run my RC's through salt anyway.

 

[pl9171]

I am also using Premium Hob e lub (same picture) for the bearing since day 1. Seems to be good.
I don't use WD for the bearings. (Src has a good point in regard of Post #10)
I don't know Corrosion X.

 

[SrC]

Many use WD. I just don't. Not to say it doesn't work for others on certain parts of the chassis. To each his own.
WD is very thin and migrates past the bearing seals very easily. Its designed to penetrate. It just takes a miniscule drop into the seals and you wont even notice. Then WD breaks down the bearing lube. Keep WD far away from bearings. A hard thing to do if using it liberally for displacing moisture across the whole chassis. WD acts like a solvent 90% of the time. And it does attract dirt. Requires a good wipe off if you do use it. I just find it causes more work/harm than needed. Sure, everything looks clean and "new" looking. But that's just false sense of security IMO.