Kraton Kraton 6s V5 center differential blowing up

[TheDetroiter]

My son’s center diff keeps exploding. I haven’t had an issue with it for about 10 runs, then it blew a hole through the side and basically exploded. I put a brand new one in and it lasted about 10 min and did the exact same thing. I read in one of the forums to run heavier weight in the center diff. I bought another center diff, cleaned out the stock 100k and put 200k in it and also cleaned the front and rear diff (no damage to them) and put higher viscosity oil-I now have 50/200/30. We went out and it lasted about 25 min and started making a weird grinding noise and leaking diff oil. My son is losing interest in the hobby because these cars are constantly breaking. I never had an issue before and my daughter has the exact Kraton and nothing has happened to hers. I also have an Arrma kraton exb and have had no diff issues. All the cars have the same amount of run time because make this a family thing (minus the wife). I starting thinking that maybe the front or rear drive shaft bearing (see attached photos) that goes into the gear box set might be bad and causing resistance which in turn is causing the center diff to overwork. Is this a possibility or is there something else simple that I’m missing. This is getting very expensive and time consuming. Thank you

 

[Surchaufeur]

My son’s center diff keeps exploding. I haven’t had an issue with it for about 10 runs, then it blew a hole through the side and basically exploded. I put a brand new one in and it lasted about 10 min and did the exact same thing. I read in one of the forums to run heavier weight in the center diff. I bought another center diff, cleaned out the stock 100k and put 200k in it and also cleaned the front and rear diff (no damage to them) and put higher viscosity oil-I now have 50/200/30. We went out and it lasted about 25 min and started making a weird grinding noise and leaking diff oil. My son is losing interest in the hobby because these cars are constantly breaking. I never had an issue before and my daughter has the exact Kraton and nothing has happened to hers. I also have an Arrma kraton exb and have had no diff issues. All the cars have the same amount of run time because make this a family thing (minus the wife). I starting thinking that maybe the front or rear drive shaft bearing (see attached photos) that goes into the gear box set might be bad and causing resistance which in turn is causing the center diff to overwork. Is this a possibility or is there something else simple that I’m missing. This is getting very expensive and time consuming. Thank you

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Very weird. Its the center diff exploding? Is the gearmesh okay? Pinion size and electronics? Theres a heat spike coming from somewhere to explode the center diff. The exb diffs run a bit hotter because if the LSD effect if you want that feature. You can try a metal diff case for ur center diff and that will take care of the issue
Does the rear spin smoothly? The inside bearing inside the gearbox should be the last bearing to ever go out. The small one maybe but i doubt the bearings are shot unless you run on water. Its important to shim the diffs to have them the tightest possible without binding and resistance

 

[dure16]

I’d go heavier oil - 500k or higher.

 

[Garcbomber]

Might be time to learn to fix it himself or run 4S, building and improving is half of the fun and maybe the hobby isn’t for him. Bashing like a YouTuber to impress people comes at a price…

 

[TheDetroiter]

Very weird. Its the center diff exploding? Is the gearmesh okay? Pinion size and electronics? Theres a heat spike coming from somewhere to explode the center diff. The exb diffs run a bit hotter because if the LSD effect if you want that feature. You can try a metal diff case for ur center diff and that will take care of the issue
Does the rear spin smoothly? The inside bearing inside the gearbox should be the last bearing to ever go out. The small one maybe but i doubt the bearings are shot unless you run on water. Its important to shim the diffs to have them the tightest possible without binding and resistance

I was thinking it could be electronics too. I don’t like the spectrum electronics/motor. The week before I had to replace my daughters spectrum servo because that started on fire and burned a hole in the side of the servo casing. Are you saying to use an exb center diff instead of the stock one?

 

[Surchaufeur]

I was thinking it could be electronics too. I don’t like the spectrum electronics/motor. The week before I had to replace my daughters spectrum servo because that started on fire and burned a hole in the side of the servo casing. Are you saying to use an exb center diff instead of the stock one?

Stock or exb you shouldnt be having problems with diff melting in the center. Factory servos do suck

 

[TheDetroiter]

Might be time to learn to fix it himself or run 4S, building and improving is half of the fun and maybe the hobby isn’t for him. Bashing like a YouTuber to impress people comes at a price…

He’s only 10 and rides it in a football field

 

[Surchaufeur]

He’s only 10 and rides it in a football field

Check for binding first. Remove the center diff and spin the rear of the car and the front there shouldnt be any resistance. Put the center diff and axles back in and loose the motor mount and spin the wheels everything should spin smoothly

 

[fredw90]

I’ve always disliked the stock plastic cup on the center diff. I think the arrma aluminum cup for $20 is worth the money.

 

[hobo]

check all your drivetrain could be a bearing something is not right never had a centre diff explode. been running arrma 6s cars for years