Kraton Kraton 6S V5/RPM A-Arms

[Daywalker_27]

So my Kraton had an unscheduled meeting with a curb this week.

I broke the steering block, bent the drive shaft, and cracked a upper A-arm. LHS recommended RPM A-arms, after installing the A-arms the issue I’m having is the drive shaft now covers the screw that holds the shock mount pin, making it really difficult (nearly impossible) to access.

Did I do this wrong? It doesn’t seem right that the drive shaft would cover something I’d need access to.

 

[RC Steve]

My experience with V5 RPM A-arms wasn't good. The rears I broke every drive and the fronts I had the same problem you're having. The general consinces on this forum is that their substandard and the stock EXB are much better. The stock EXB arms are what I use now.

I want to add, I did the same thread myself so this is a common problem.

 

[TMCCOY]

Could it be an order of operations issue? attach the shock to the LCA first?

 

[Garcbomber]

Yeah the only thing I’d use is the front upper A-arm on a 6Sv5 wide arm. Too brittle unless it’s 100 degrees in the desert.

Last time I spoke with their customer service/engineer they were working on polymer chemistry yet for Arrma 1/8 scale.

 

[Tex Koder]

So my Kraton had an unscheduled meeting with a curb this week.

View attachment 303532

I broke the steering block, bent the drive shaft, and cracked a upper A-arm. LHS recommended RPM A-arms, after installing the A-arms the issue I’m having is the drive shaft now covers the screw that holds the shock mount pin, making it really difficult (nearly impossible) to access.

View attachment 303534View attachment 303535View attachment 303536

Did I do this wrong? It doesn’t seem right that the drive shaft would cover something I’d need access to.

Remove the upper arms' hinge pins so you can easily remove the driveshafts out of the way.
The RPM arms are just designed different from stock arms..

 

[Armarookie43]

So my Kraton had an unscheduled meeting with a curb this week.

View attachment 303532

I broke the steering block, bent the drive shaft, and cracked a upper A-arm. LHS recommended RPM A-arms, after installing the A-arms the issue I’m having is the drive shaft now covers the screw that holds the shock mount pin, making it really difficult (nearly impossible) to access.

View attachment 303534View attachment 303535View attachment 303536

Did I do this wrong? It doesn’t seem right that the drive shaft would cover something I’d need access to.

RPM arms suck. Get the EXB arms, which I think are the same as the V5 arms. I had to modify crap to get the RPM arms to fit. Not worth it.

 

[Tex Koder]

The Stock setup..

Retaining screw is not blocked by driveshaft.

 

[DCarlson]

I went through about 4 sets each front rear and ruined 10 m2c captured hinge pins before I went back to stock. RPM arms for the 6s cars are garbage, they don't have much material to capture the pin so they tear if you're driving hard and sending it. I also had issues with front passenger driveshaft popping out every jump over 5 ft which ruined a few cvds and drive cups. Stock arms with the bottom spacer removed solved all of those issues.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I haven't heard good things about them at all. Put the stock ones in warm water or boiling water. Been clipping crap with them for a few years i only had a one snap on me when i landed on one tire in -20c weather. Did replace a few arms because i found micro cracks forming on the front arms on the stretched hinge pin hole. Could have kept them til they broke but i was doing a full teardown at the time and i had a new pair in the spare bin

 

[Daywalker_27]

I went through about 4 sets each front rear and ruined 10 m2c captured hinge pins before I went back to stock. RPM arms for the 6s cars are garbage, they don't have much material to capture the pin so they tear if you're driving hard and sending it. I also had issues with front passenger driveshaft popping out every jump over 5 ft which ruined a few cvds and drive cups. Stock arms with the bottom spacer removed solved all of those issues.

Right now I’m seriously considering the putting the lower oem A-arms back on.

 

[TMCCOY]

Stock arms with the bottom spacer removed solved all of those issues.

DCarlson, would you mind to explain this for a newborn?

Anyone want to buy a full set of RPM arms new in bags?

Sheesh.... Not saying I did, but I may have gotten a little ahead of myself buying them for spares.

 

[RC Steve]

To access the screw with the least amount of pain pull your upper hinge pins out first then flop your steering blocks back. This is a load easier than unscrewing your pillerballs.

 

[Daywalker_27]

To access the screw with the least amount of pain pull your upper hinge pins out first then flop your steering blocks back. This is a load easier than unscrewing your pillerballs.

Remove the upper arms' hinge pins so you can easily remove the driveshafts out of the way.
The RPM arms are just designed different from stock arms..

So I gotta reply from RPM regarding my issue. After reading it I thought damn, that sounds familiar.

I sware I read your replies, it just didn’t register (we’ll just call that “ADD”). I guess the reason I couldn’t find any solutions in my searches is because the ones dealing with this are relying on their experience (or common sense). I’d think a upgrade would make things easier, stock arms didn’t need to be removed to access the shocks.

Anyways my problem has been resolved, thanks for all your help.