KRATON EXB FULL M2C OUTDRIVE PROBLEM

[Soilhalo77]

Ok so I have a K6 EXB with as much M2C on as they make also HR bell crank , center diff cover and support. Vitavon diff housings etc. The only bit I still have problems with is outdrives snapping! I have my suspension set up same as Rich D and for the droop I’m using 5x4mm washers so the droop screw can’t back out, also using about 3-4mm of fuel tubing as bump stops but I’m still snapping out drives and it’s literally driving me nuts. Seen a few possible solutions, fuel tubing in cups to reduce movement, using Cvds in the rear( think Aldo Loyal did this) but what I’m really looking for is something like what M2C made for the Xmaxx out drives. That shim that sits around the cup to absorb pressure or something like a closed cup they just just made for the Traxarse
Anyone help me out here please?

 

[SrC]

Sounds like you added so much alloy upgrade weight to your Kraton there. Only you would know better. The Outdrives can be the weak link as a result? I never had any issues with my M2C outdrives at all 3 diffs. (6s open diffs) The fact that they are snapping is a sign of high weight loading to them. Something has to give. The M2Cs' are hardened and wear out less, but being hardened would snap, making more sense in theory.
I keep my rigs as light as possible. Lean and mean. I only use minimal Alloy upgrades where absolutely needed. Most of the Stocker replacement OE plastic parts are just fine. Once you keep adding alloy all over the place, it just becomes a vicious cycle of doing it, many times without reason or any advantage. Just for the Bling factor. Many Upgrade parts are not all that or even necessary at all.
Doing it just because the next does and it looks Trick, is not how to do it IMHO.

 

[hobo]

never snapped a outdrive yet in 7 years

 

[Garcbomber]

Pictures of failure? Arrma v5 arms? You could purchase a mild steel sleeve and just tack weld it on.

What shocks/tower, standoff/pin locations? If you're not shearing them from raw torque, suspension articulation is causing them to open up and fracture.

 

[Moirae]

never snapped a outdrive yet in 7 years

Yea this sounds nuts to me lol. I've even put 8s in my kraton doing double standing backflips and who knows what else and have never had this problem. My Kraton iss only using the stock outdrives too. You never even see people complaining about this on the forums as a problem so something definitely wrong here somewhere.

 

[Soilhalo77]

Sounds like you added so much alloy upgrade weight to your Kraton there. Only you would know better. The Outdrives can be the weak link as a result? I never had any issues with my M2C outdrives at all 3 diffs. (6s open diffs) The fact that they are snapping is a sign of high weight loading to them. Something has to give. The M2Cs' are hardened and wear out less, but being hardened would snap, making more sense in theory.
I keep my rigs as light as possible. Lean and mean. I only use minimal Alloy upgrades where absolutely needed. Most of the Stocker replacement OE plastic parts are just fine. Once you keep adding alloy all over the place, it just becomes a vicious cycle of doing it, many times without reason or any advantage. Just for the Bling factor. Many Upgrade parts are not all that or even necessary at all.
Doing it just because the next does and it looks Trick, is not how to do it IMHO.

I never weighed original car but as far as im aware I think if you go full beefcake (inc diff housings) I think its only adding about 1lb in weight but I think that's if you run ally front hubs too. I was conscious of this while building it and stuck very much to Rich Ds build and RCD81. This is why its the chassis bits and drive line that's been replaced. In theory just replacing the standard parts with M2C and a HR bell crank and a rear vitavon diff housing your not adding much weight at all. I mean have you felt the weight of a Vitavon DH? The difference between the plastic and Ally is tiny just using your hands as scales

Pictures of failure? Arrma v5 arms? You could purchase a mild steel sleeve and just tack weld it on.

What shocks/tower, standoff/pin locations? If you're not shearing them from raw torque, suspension articulation is causing them to open up and fracture.

Im us using the standard EXB shock placement, so the most vertical one. I am using a MAX6 1650 geared 23/50. So there is quite a lot of power there, so maybe that's it, as every time I go through my diffs I always find a pin or 2 in 2-3 bits. Strangely it doesn't effect the driving much, no crunching grinding. I haven't broken any gears in 3 years only worn them but ive always noticed before its caused a problem

 

[SrC]

^^
It's all relative.
Not that I am any real weight weenie here....
Just that 1-2 pounds of additional weight would transalte to several hundred pounds added weight on a scale 1:1 car. Which makes a huge difference in real terms. So this translates to our RC platforms, proportionally.

 

[Soilhalo77]

^^
It's all relative.
Not that I am any real weight weenie here....
Just that 1-2 pounds of additional weight would transalte to several hundred pounds added weight on a scale 1:1 car. Which makes a huge difference in real terms. So this translates to our RC platforms, proportionally.

Maybe its just my style of driving, its only ever been the rear ive had a problem with. Since using the washers and fuel tube the problem has gotten a lot better but I was just kinds interested to see if there was anything out there similar to those xmaxx sleeves we can use on Arrma

 

[SrC]

I agree.