Kraton Noisy front bulkhead/diff Help

[SrC]

That makes sense. I had the entire front system off couple days ago to replace the bellcrank bearings with TRBRC ones. I just removed the front bumper, the bulkhead mount screws & hinge pin mount screws & chassis brace one & pulled it all up as one unit arms shocks & all. The noise was still there & I had a tricky time lining the screws all back up just right back down on the chassis. Had to move them all in close to snug, got them all started & nearly flush, then tightened them. Tighten one here & one there & another one was slightly off a small fraction & wouldn't start. The front shock tower was bent slightly too on the left side & I didn't notice that until a few days after I got it, a month ago. Luckily I had a spare from my Notorious & swapped it out back then. I bet the bulkhead is warped & the chassis has a draw to it. All in all the thing is like new & barely used. I think the previous owner wrecked the crap out of it, & punted it. It's a V3. I have a spare bulkhead & can set up the diff on the bench but if the chassis is warped I guess I can try to determine where & how to straighten it before I get a V5 chassis. Ugh. I didn't pay much for the thing. But it's adding up.

I highly suggest an upgrade chassis when the time comes for a replacement. It doesn't have to be the most expensive one. Even a 6s EXB from JennysRC is fine. Not sure how hard you plan on driving this, a basic V5 chassis may suffice for you. IDK. Get yourself front and rear alloy braces while you are at it. And A Super Basher front bumper to protect the Front Kick up and bulkhead.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...is-black-aluminum-long-wheel-base-lwb-ara8708

This also might be well worth buying, many spare parts, a lipo tray, Hinge Pins and even the Fr and RR EXB alloy braces and Super basher bumper. Good value there. Update your V3 K6 a bit.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...-guards-battery-tray-tower-wing-mount-ara8708

If that’s the case it must be a shimming issue, right?

Or the new, yet badly molded Bulkhead. Been there. I was chasing a ghost one time. I then tossed the new bulkhead for another new one and all was fine. Go figure.
I am assuming the Diff cup and its 2 BB's are in good shape also.
BTW , I've used as many as (3) shims before on one side and 1 on the other with well used diffs and Bulkheads. As long as it works. I like Tekno diff shims.

I've easily rebuilt these 6s diffs well over 100 times over the years. No exaggeration.

 

[332_RC]

It is greased & shimmed properly & in the video as well. New bearings throughout. Mesh is correct. I have new spare bulkheads from jennys. Some of the noise I got to go away after I took it apart & put back together. No motor & it all spins freely.

 

[332_RC]

It is greased & shimmed properly & in the video as well. New bearings throughout. Mesh is correct. I have new spare bulkheads from jennys. Some of the noise I got to go away after I took it apart & put back together. No motor & it all spins freely.

The only thing I changed were those lame SS diff cap screws in the video. The SS screws were all over this thing from previous owner. I've replaced all of them. The diff cap SS screws were too short. Put in proper length cap screws.

 

[slick2500]

The only thing I changed were those lame SS diff cap screws in the video. The SS screws were all over this thing from previous owner. I've replaced all of them. The diff cap SS screws were too short. Put in proper length cap screws.

I blame television commercials for claiming that stainless steel is one of the hardest metals available for people's obsessions with stainless steel screws.......... I see it here and ON Facebook so much where someone is showing a picture of their car all decked out in SS then they are like I just swapped out all the crappy stock hardware for some nice high quality stainless steel screws from RC Screwz.... I just face-palm and walk away anymore as they are too stupid to realize that the stainless steel screws, especially the ones from RC Screws aren't even half as strong as the stock ones.

 

[332_RC]

I blame television commercials for claiming that stainless steel is one of the hardest metals available for people's obsessions with stainless steel screws..........

Yes. Guy must have bought one of those SS 'kits' for said model. They were everywhere. Some of the steel hardware had surface rust, as the rig came from Orlando. It's been a fun project, 1st slider/roller build.

 

[slick2500]

Yes. Guy must have bought one of those SS 'kits' for said model. They were everywhere. Took them all off. Some of the steel hardware had surface rust, as the rig came from Orlando. It's been a fun project, 1st slider/roller build.

I don't mind SS hardware on parts like the side guards, receiver box, to hold the esc and esc switch down or basically anywhere they are cosmetic but anywhere that a screw supports a load or goes into another metal part is usually a bad idea.

 

[332_RC]

I blame television commercials for claiming that stainless steel is one of the hardest metals available for people's obsessions with stainless steel screws.......... I see it here and ON Facebook so much where someone is showing a picture of their car all decked out in SS then they are like I just swapped out all the crappy stock hardware for some nice high quality stainless steel screws from RC Screwz.... I just face-palm and walk away anymore as they are too stupid to realize that the stainless steel screws, especially the ones from RC Screws aren't even half as strong as the stock ones.

Yep. And I'm a machinist & SS is not that strong. Just has corrosion resistance. And all those kit screws, I put a caliper on them so I could replace properly & they are all undersized on the diameters. Yes, hand to face... after I set the caliper down

I don't mind SS hardware on parts like the side guards, receiver box, to hold the esc and esc switch down or basically anywhere they are cosmetic but anywhere that a screw supports a load or goes into another metal part is usually a bad idea.

Yep. Kept the side guards SS screws & mud flap mount screws SS.

 

[slick2500]

Yep. And I'm a machinist & SS is not that strong. Just has corrosion resistance. And all those kit screws, I put a caliper on them so I could replace properly & they are all undersized on the diameters. Yes, hand to face... after I set the caliper down

Yep. Kept the side guards SS screws & mud flap mount screws SS.

RC Screwz and RC Raven seriously use some of the cheapest Chinese factory reject screws they can source. I too noticed that they were inconsistent in diameter hell a lot of them were inconsistent in length as well.

 

[332_RC]

Yes. Guy must have bought one of those SS 'kits' for said model. They were everywhere. Some of the steel hardware had surface rust, as the rig came from Orlando. It's been a fun project, 1st slider/roller build.

Still trying to pin down a motor. I'm set on the HW Max6 G2. I was looking at a Hobbystar V2, but at this point, all I've done to it, I think I should go with a Castle motor. I posted about a 1520 1650kv earlier. They run hot? 6s only.

 

[PrerunninF150]

If you are going with the new G2 you might as well get the 4990 1650kv from HW and go sensored.

 

[332_RC]

If you are going with the new G2 you might as well get the 4990 1650kv from HW and go sensored.

I believe that's what I'll get. I had a post yesterday about the motors & help & the combo is the way to go. I got an email from Amain for $20 off coupon 200 & up so I can get the Max6 G2 sensored 4990 combo for $219.

 

[Saladshooter]

I believe that's what I'll get. I had a post yesterday about the motors & help & the combo is the way to go. I got an email from Amain for $20 off coupon 200 & up so I can get the Max6 G2 sensored 4990 combo for $219.

At Tower Hobbies you can buy for $204 with discount code Tower15. Its out of stock but due in inventory anytime. Your patience may vary.

 

[332_RC]

At Tower Hobbies you can buy for $204 with discount code Tower15. Its out of stock but due in inventory anytime. Your patience may vary.

Oh wow, cool! Thanks man! Every bit can help. I'm going try that out
This code for Amain is (ends31st)
JAN1024 10$ off 100
JAN2024 20$ off 200
JAN3024 30' 3 '

Oh wow, cool! Thanks man! Every bit can help. I'm going try that out
This code for Amain is (ends31st)
JAN1024 10$ off 100
JAN2024 20$ off 200
JAN3024 30' 3 '

I got a fast eddys 10 off code too at the house on a card if anyone needs it

 

[trexdd]

Did you ever solve your noise issue? Have you looked at the centre diff housing to see if maybe the screws were stripped into the plastic front end side of the mount from the top of the centre mount. If there is play in the mount, it could allow for the centre diff to “rock” in place during load.

 

[SrC]

The only thing I changed were those lame SS diff cap screws in the video. The SS screws were all over this thing from previous owner. I've replaced all of them. The diff cap SS screws were too short. Put in proper length cap screws.

Yeah SS screws are NG. Toss them for strong 12.9 grade steel hardware. Using correct stock length sizes.
SS Upgrade kits are usually of poor quality, and is known to be extremely soft metal anyway. The cheap ones are way softer than 10.9 grade steel. Been there.
And RC Screwz brand SS is among the worst.
SS is usually bought for the "Bling" it has.
And I've even seen cheap Chinesium SS rust out. FWIW.