Kraton Sorry another Kraton Basher bumper question

[Dmcgroggan3]

Thinking T-bone tbr thrasher vs tbr xb4??
I like the looks better of the xb4... Slightly, but would one be noticeably better for bashing?

I noticed the rear of the thrasher connects with two screws as apposed to one on the xb4, and I wonder if the thrasher would get caught on less stuff on a nose impacts because it's smooth.... Does either of these points matter?

I'm guessing there is a reason Rich and RC Dude both rock the Thrasher.... Just wondering if the tb4 is inferior in any way or not as good for bashing??

Thoughts?

Thanks D

 

[Jimbobjr]

I thought those guys run the small typhon bumper on their 6s rigs. That’s the one I use on the talion. My oc and Kraton have the big one with the two round pipe looking pieces. Talion gets caught on everything, 10075, xv4 gets caught on nothing. I’ve been through countless typhon bumpers, still have the original xv4 on the Kraton.

 

[Dmcgroggan3]

I thought those guys run the small typhon bumper on their 6s rigs. That’s the one I use on the talion. My oc and Kraton have the big one with the two round pipe looking pieces. Talion gets caught on everything, 10075, xv4 gets caught on nothing. I’ve been through countless typhon bumpers, still have the original xv4 on the Kraton.

You might be right about the smaller typhon bumper... I do recall them mentioning that but was not sure if that was the case on every rig.

That's good to hear the xv4 does not get caught on anything and has heald up. You using the newer version that attaches above and below the gearbox?

 

[Jimbobjr]

The one I have on the Kraton and mounts to a little block that holds the pins in and pulls the bumper upright, it has not failed yet. The one on the oc is the style that bolts to the bulk head. I’ve broken that one at the bulkhead piece once but never a bulkhead. Not sure how the new ones are for the Kraton but pretty sure they still run the block that holds the pins in.

 

[Dmcgroggan3]

The one I have on the Kraton and mounts to a little block that holds the pins in and pulls the bumper upright, it has not failed yet. The one on the oc is the style that bolts to the bulk head. I’ve broken that one at the bulkhead piece once but never a bulkhead. Not sure how the new ones are for the Kraton but pretty sure they still run the block that holds the pins in.

Correct... They bolt to the block and not the bulkhead

I guess at this point it's just a matter of preference.
I have heard some say that the RPM one is better that that one just bolts to the bottom, can't imagine it holding up as well

Thanks

 

[Hammer Down]

Correct... They bolt to the block and not the bulkhead

I guess at this point it's just a matter of preference.
I have heard some say that the RPM one is better that that one just bolts to the bottom, can't imagine it holding up as well

Thanks

I can’t speak for the t-bone bumper but the RPM bumper on my kraton has taken more lawn dart action from 20+ ft. than I care to count without a single issue!

 

[Notorious J]

Correct... They bolt to the block and not the bulkhead

I guess at this point it's just a matter of preference.
I have heard some say that the RPM one is better that that one just bolts to the bottom, can't imagine it holding up as well

Thanks

I use the XV4 now, and I ran the RPM for almost the whole summer. I'm running the XV4 without the brace or hinge pin block, and it seems to be holding up fine. The main thing to consider when running the T Bone, is that you need to make small spacers to sit on the chassis to fill the counter sink hole. RPM come with dimples, T Bone does not. The spacers are made by drilling out M4 flat screws, that fill the hole perfectly. If you don't add this spacer, T Bone's have been known to rip the screws right out of the bottom of the bulkhead. Thank @Jimbobjr for the idea. In the end, I find that both brands of bumpers will only take some many bad hits. T Bone are more up front, but carry a lifetime warranty that's easy to process. RPM also have a warranty, but the process is a little more complex. The bottom line is, the bumper is designed to make up for our bad driving mistakes. If they break, but save everything else, than it's money well spent.

 

[SrC]

I use the XV4 now, and I ran the RPM for almost the whole summer. I'm running the XV4 without the brace or hinge pin block, and it seems to be holding up fine. The main thing to consider when running the T Bone, is that you need to make small spacers to sit on the chassis to fill the counter sink hole. RPM come with dimples, T Bone does not. The spacers are made by drilling out M4 flat screws, that fill the hole perfectly. If you don't add this spacer, T Bone's have been known to rip the screws right out of the bottom of the bulkhead. Thank @Jimbobjr for the idea. In the end, I find that both brands of bumpers will only take some many bad hits. T Bone are more up front, but carry a lifetime warranty that's easy to process. RPM also have a warranty, but the process is a little more complex. The bottom line is, the bumper is designed to make up for our bad driving mistakes. If they break, but save everything else, than it's money well spent.

RPM is the less expensive choice. TBR can be a mixed bag for the price too. If they break then they did their job and replace. TBR warranties one time only. The second is not warrantied to my knowledge. But Jacob is flexible if you speak to him directly. RPM is hit or miss with warrantys in general. Whatever works for you.
Edit: Some don't know that you can use a front RPM bumper on the rear also. Many do this.

 

[Dmcgroggan3]

I use the XV4 now, and I ran the RPM for almost the whole summer. I'm running the XV4 without the brace or hinge pin block, and it seems to be holding up fine. The main thing to consider when running the T Bone, is that you need to make small spacers to sit on the chassis to fill the counter sink hole. RPM come with dimples, T Bone does not. The spacers are made by drilling out M4 flat screws, that fill the hole perfectly. If you don't add this spacer, T Bone's have been known to rip the screws right out of the bottom of the bulkhead. Thank @Jimbobjr for the idea. In the end, I find that both brands of bumpers will only take some many bad hits. T Bone are more up front, but carry a lifetime warranty that's easy to process. RPM also have a warranty, but the process is a little more complex. The bottom line is, the bumper is designed to make up for our bad driving mistakes. If they break, but save everything else, than it's money well spent.

"you need to make small spacers to sit on the chassis to fill the counter sink hole. RPM come with dimples, T Bone does not. The spacers are made by drilling out M4 flat screws, that fill the hole perfectly. If you don't add this spacer, T Bone's have been known to rip the screws right out of the bottom of the bulkhead."

Since you are using the older version of the xv4, do you know if this is still an issue with the new version as it attaches differently?

Also. I have heard of some using longer screws to mount as now the stock screws are going through more material and need more length, is this the case or does TBR supply longer hardware?

And did you prefer the TBR over the RPM?
....though Im REALLY wanting to know of experiences/preferences of the xv4 vs the thrasher??

...sorry that's 4 questions

Thanks

 

[Notorious J]

"you need to make small spacers to sit on the chassis to fill the counter sink hole. RPM come with dimples, T Bone does not. The spacers are made by drilling out M4 flat screws, that fill the hole perfectly. If you don't add this spacer, T Bone's have been known to rip the screws right out of the bottom of the bulkhead."

Since you are using the older version of the xv4, do you know if this is still an issue with the new version as it attaches differently?

Also. I have heard of some using longer screws to mount as now the stock screws are going through more material and need more length, is this the case or does TBR supply longer hardware?

And did you prefer the TBR over the RPM?
....though Im REALLY wanting to know of experiences/preferences of the xv4 vs the thrasher??

...sorry that's 4 questions

Thanks

1. T Bone supplies longer hardware but the spacers are still a must.
2.RPM uses an injection moulded more pliable plastic, so it flexes more. T Bone is cut from a more rigid plastic. Stronger but can also be brittle.
3. XV4 slopes up more and has the bumperettes. Thrasher sticks out straighter and protects more of the front.

I've broken them all, so roll the dice.

 

[arrmadillo]

I use small Typhon bumper

 

[Notorious J]

I use small Typhon bumper

Can't use that anymore because of the upgraded hinge pin/suspension mounts. Tough little bumper though.

 

[Dmcgroggan3]

1. T Bone supplies longer hardware but the spacers are still a must.
2.RPM uses an injection moulded more pliable plastic, so it flexes more. T Bone is cut from a more rigid plastic. Stronger but can also be brittle.
3. XV4 slopes up more and has the bumperettes. Thrasher sticks out straighter and protects more of the front.

I've broken them all, so roll the dice.

You gotta link to a detailed description of what to do with the spacers? Pics?
Not sure if I follow ya.... Sorry I'm new to Arrma and the Kraton... Thanks
Pretty sure. I'm going xv4, though I really do appreciate your feedback ??

 

[JtkBrew]

You gotta link to a detailed description of what to do with the spacers? Pics?
Not sure if I follow ya.... Sorry I'm new to Arrma and the Kraton... Thanks
Pretty sure. I'm going xv4, though I really do appreciate your feedback ??

Make that 2 newbies that are not understanding this spacer thing. I have the new version bumper pictured below, but need to remove it soon for other stuff. I'd like to do the spacers then, if needed.

 

[Notorious J]

You gotta link to a detailed description of what to do with the spacers? Pics?
Not sure if I follow ya.... Sorry I'm new to Arrma and the Kraton... Thanks
Pretty sure. I'm going xv4, though I really do appreciate your feedback ??

Make that 2 newbies that are not understanding this spacer thing. I have the new version bumper pictured below, but need to remove it soon for other stuff. I'd like to do the spacers then, if needed.

View attachment 62904

View attachment 62905

Ok. See this pic. Those three spacers sitting on the bumper are the heads of a 4mm flat screw. I put an old screw in a vice, then drill straight down the center with a 4mm or similar drill bit. Once you get through the head, the shaft of the screw pops off and you're left with a perfect spacer to fill the countersink hole. Just line the spacers up on the holes of the chassis, rest the bumper on top to hold them in place, then use slightly longer screws to secure the bumper into the gear box. Without those spacers, the gap left from the T Bone flat area of the skid, allows for too much movement and will eventually pull the screws out. Everyone that has the T Bone has run in to this issue, so definitely worth the effort to make the spacers.

 

[SrC]

That's def. a sticky. Thanks.

 

[JtkBrew]

Ok. See this pic. Those three spacers sitting on the bumper are the heads of a 4mm flat screw. I put an old screw in a vice, then drill straight down the center with a 4mm or similar drill bit. Once you get through the head, the shaft of the screw pops off and you're left with a perfect spacer to fill the countersink hole. Just line the spacers up on the holes of the chassis, rest the bumper on top to hold them in place, then use slightly longer screws to secure the bumper into the gear box. Without those spacers, the gap left from the T Bone flat area of the skid, allows for too much movement and will eventually pull the screws out. Everyone that has the T Bone has run in to this issue, so definitely worth the effort to make the spacers.
View attachment 62931

@Notorious J, thank you very much! I have just a couple clarification questions to make sure I understand.

Even though you have 3 spacers pictured, you'd only be using 2, correct? And they will go between the skid plate and the chassis toward the rear of the car, as pictured below?

Tbr Xv4 on Kraton

• JtkBrew
• Jan 29, 2020

Trying to get spacer clarification on TBR Xv4 bumper

Tbr Xv4 on Kraton

• JtkBrew
• Jan 29, 2020

Trying to get spacer clarification on TBR Xv4 bumper

So it will look like this from a cross section when done, correct?

Tbr Xv4 spacer

• JtkBrew
• Jan 29, 2020

Getting Tbr Xv4 bumper spacer clarification

Would the screws provided by TBR not be long enough once the spacer is countersunk into the original chassis hole?

 

[Notorious J]

@Notorious J, thank you very much! I have just a couple clarification questions to make sure I understand.

Even though you have 3 spacers pictured, you'd only be using 2, correct? And they will go between the skid plate and the chassis toward the rear of the car, as pictured below?

Tbr Xv4 on Kraton

• JtkBrew
• Jan 29, 2020

Trying to get spacer clarification on TBR Xv4 bumper

Tbr Xv4 on Kraton

• JtkBrew
• Jan 29, 2020

Trying to get spacer clarification on TBR Xv4 bumper

So it will look like this from a cross section when done, correct?

Tbr Xv4 spacer

• JtkBrew
• Jan 29, 2020

Getting Tbr Xv4 bumper spacer clarification

Would the screws provided by TBR not be long enough once the spacer is countersunk into the original chassis hole?

Your artistic representation is spot on. Yes, in your case, only two sandwiched in the the back where the two holes meet the chassis. Since the front two holes attach to the block they provide, which is flat on the bottom, nothing needed there. I had three shown for example only. Mine actually used four. You will only need four longer screws. Two through the skid into the chassis, and two into the block they provide. The two front holes of the chassis that are covered, should remain untouched.

 

[olds97_lss]

I run RPM on front over the stock one on my outcast and t-bone on the rear. Both have steel wear plates with countersunk screws on them as I chew through plastic skids in a single bash session otherwise. The wear plate also helps keep the bumper/skid from ripping off from underneath. Just make sure to use some sort of tool to measure the depth with the added thickness of stuff on there so you can use the longest screws possible without bottoming them out.