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During the current lockdown I decided to do something with a spare M2C Racing Outcast chassis I had spare so I put the chassis on the stand and let that marinade...
I compared the weight between the M2C Racing chassis and the Arrma Outcast chassis.
M2C Racing - 423 grams
Arrma Outcast - 301 grams
I decided on a narrow width, low riding Outcast with Talion suspension and a Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus ESC with a Hobbywing Xerun 4272 2250Kv brushless motor.
The new Hobbywing app is great for programming the ESC. It is now available with a bluetooth module to connect with the ESC. The older wifi module still works as does the Hobbywing programming box.
I wanted to build a low, sharp handling Outcast so I looked through the parts bin and found a bunch of spares I could use to build it.
I got online and ordered the rest of the pieces I would need and started to assemble the Spoutcast (Sporty Outcast)
I started with Talion front and rear shock absorbers and replaced the fluid with AE Factory Team 1000cst / 80w silicone oil. The pistons are stock with 1.2 x 8 in the front and 1.4 x 8 in the rear.
I also added Talion EXB front and rear shock towers.
The Arrowmax shock holder is amazing and also makes a great stand for building differentials and holding drivers.
For the differentials, I used some spare brand new Kraton V4 assemblies which I shimmed under the sun gears using the wide Mugen shims which give full support to the sun gear. 1 shim under each sun gear was all they needed and the stock shim was removed.
I am running AE Factory Team silicone oils.
10k CST in the front differential
20k CST in the centre differential
7k CST in the rear differential
I use Penrite Molygrease EP 3% to lubricate the differential crown wheel and pinion. It is a lithium based grease with molybdenum disulphide.
I wanted a narrower stance than the Outcast so I added Kraton EXB suspension arms front and rear and used a set of Typhon hubs, drive hexes and wheel axles connected to Kraton drive shafts.
The EXB suspension arms are substantially beefier than the standard Kraton versions.
The wheel bearings have been replaced with sealed versions from FastEddy bearings. I use FastEddy bearings or TRBRC bearings.
The towers were drilled out to fit the M2C Racing heavy duty shock stand offs
Part number M2C3080
I disassembled a Talion EXB steering assembly, removed the bushes and fitted some sealed bearings.
There is a Typhon wing mount installed with the standard Outcast wing. The Hobbywing Xerun 4274 2250Kv is cooled with the Yeah Racing 'Heat Sink with Tornado High Speed Cooling Fans. The part number is YA-0261BK.
I am using the standard 50T spur gear with a 14T Tenno pinion gear. I prefer the Tekno pinion gears because they have a larger grub screw and scientific testing has proven they are more better.
I am using a Futaba R334SBS receiver and a Futaba 7PX transmitter for all the cars.
The body mounts are positioned as far down as possible to keep the body low.
The servo is a Savox SB-2290 SG with a Hot Racing servo steering arm. The steering link was attached using the centre hole on the servo arm so the steering arm and link are 90 degrees to each other.
The outer wheel bearings have been shimmed behind them to take up the play behind the drive hex.
I used Tekno 0.1mm shims. Part number TKR1222 and Kyosho 0.15mm shims. Part number 96772
The lovely silver Outcast body required a bit of trimming to fit down low on the Talion shock towers. The front bumper was trimmed in the centre to clear the bumper and at the front corners to clear the suspension arms.
The rear was trimmed a little to clear the suspension arms and shock absorbers and the top deck was cut so the shock tower could peer out a little bit.
And then the body wouldn't fit around the Typhon wing mount so that got some cutting action too.
I put on the setup wheels and set the suspension so the arms angled down slightly at around 2 degrees. The ride height is set so the car is level front to back.
I am not running any anti roll bars on the car.
The rear toe in is stock Talion setting and the front toe out is 2 degrees.
The front has 3 degrees negative camber and the rear has 3 degrees negative camber.
The front caster is set in the standard middle setting with the thick clip at the front of the suspension arm and 2 thin clips at the back.
The wheel base is set in the standard middle position with the thick shim at the back of the suspension arm and the 2 thin shims at the front.
I can highly recommend the VP Pro setup wheels to help dial in your suspension setup. I use JConcepts aluminium ride height gauge and JC Concepts aluminium camber gauge. They are available as a set.
And here is the finished Spoutcast. I took it for a quick run and it drives really well. The diff setup is really responsive and the handling is great. The suspension is nice and plush with the 1000CST shock oil.
I really like the way it turned out. It sits low and is super stable.
The diff oil setup of 10k front, 20k centre, 7k rear gives it great turning and good acceleration without doing wheelies. It drives fast and straight and turns on a dime.
I added the Mojave EXB wheels and tires and I think the grey wheels look nice with the silver body.
I use the large angled body clips on all my cars. They make using the clips so much easier.
I compared the weight between the M2C Racing chassis and the Arrma Outcast chassis.
M2C Racing - 423 grams
Arrma Outcast - 301 grams
I decided on a narrow width, low riding Outcast with Talion suspension and a Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus ESC with a Hobbywing Xerun 4272 2250Kv brushless motor.
The new Hobbywing app is great for programming the ESC. It is now available with a bluetooth module to connect with the ESC. The older wifi module still works as does the Hobbywing programming box.
I wanted to build a low, sharp handling Outcast so I looked through the parts bin and found a bunch of spares I could use to build it.
I got online and ordered the rest of the pieces I would need and started to assemble the Spoutcast (Sporty Outcast)
I started with Talion front and rear shock absorbers and replaced the fluid with AE Factory Team 1000cst / 80w silicone oil. The pistons are stock with 1.2 x 8 in the front and 1.4 x 8 in the rear.
I also added Talion EXB front and rear shock towers.
The Arrowmax shock holder is amazing and also makes a great stand for building differentials and holding drivers.
For the differentials, I used some spare brand new Kraton V4 assemblies which I shimmed under the sun gears using the wide Mugen shims which give full support to the sun gear. 1 shim under each sun gear was all they needed and the stock shim was removed.
I am running AE Factory Team silicone oils.
10k CST in the front differential
20k CST in the centre differential
7k CST in the rear differential
I use Penrite Molygrease EP 3% to lubricate the differential crown wheel and pinion. It is a lithium based grease with molybdenum disulphide.
I wanted a narrower stance than the Outcast so I added Kraton EXB suspension arms front and rear and used a set of Typhon hubs, drive hexes and wheel axles connected to Kraton drive shafts.
The EXB suspension arms are substantially beefier than the standard Kraton versions.
The wheel bearings have been replaced with sealed versions from FastEddy bearings. I use FastEddy bearings or TRBRC bearings.
The towers were drilled out to fit the M2C Racing heavy duty shock stand offs
Part number M2C3080
I disassembled a Talion EXB steering assembly, removed the bushes and fitted some sealed bearings.
There is a Typhon wing mount installed with the standard Outcast wing. The Hobbywing Xerun 4274 2250Kv is cooled with the Yeah Racing 'Heat Sink with Tornado High Speed Cooling Fans. The part number is YA-0261BK.
I am using the standard 50T spur gear with a 14T Tenno pinion gear. I prefer the Tekno pinion gears because they have a larger grub screw and scientific testing has proven they are more better.
I am using a Futaba R334SBS receiver and a Futaba 7PX transmitter for all the cars.
The body mounts are positioned as far down as possible to keep the body low.
The servo is a Savox SB-2290 SG with a Hot Racing servo steering arm. The steering link was attached using the centre hole on the servo arm so the steering arm and link are 90 degrees to each other.
The outer wheel bearings have been shimmed behind them to take up the play behind the drive hex.
I used Tekno 0.1mm shims. Part number TKR1222 and Kyosho 0.15mm shims. Part number 96772
The lovely silver Outcast body required a bit of trimming to fit down low on the Talion shock towers. The front bumper was trimmed in the centre to clear the bumper and at the front corners to clear the suspension arms.
The rear was trimmed a little to clear the suspension arms and shock absorbers and the top deck was cut so the shock tower could peer out a little bit.
And then the body wouldn't fit around the Typhon wing mount so that got some cutting action too.
I put on the setup wheels and set the suspension so the arms angled down slightly at around 2 degrees. The ride height is set so the car is level front to back.
I am not running any anti roll bars on the car.
The rear toe in is stock Talion setting and the front toe out is 2 degrees.
The front has 3 degrees negative camber and the rear has 3 degrees negative camber.
The front caster is set in the standard middle setting with the thick clip at the front of the suspension arm and 2 thin clips at the back.
The wheel base is set in the standard middle position with the thick shim at the back of the suspension arm and the 2 thin shims at the front.
I can highly recommend the VP Pro setup wheels to help dial in your suspension setup. I use JConcepts aluminium ride height gauge and JC Concepts aluminium camber gauge. They are available as a set.
And here is the finished Spoutcast. I took it for a quick run and it drives really well. The diff setup is really responsive and the handling is great. The suspension is nice and plush with the 1000CST shock oil.
I really like the way it turned out. It sits low and is super stable.
The diff oil setup of 10k front, 20k centre, 7k rear gives it great turning and good acceleration without doing wheelies. It drives fast and straight and turns on a dime.
I added the Mojave EXB wheels and tires and I think the grey wheels look nice with the silver body.
I use the large angled body clips on all my cars. They make using the clips so much easier.