Big Rock The worst RC body

[Garcbomber]

When you thought the fireteam was bad…

 

[SrC]

NO issues with My FT body.
It is "keyed"/locked into the chassis at the Towers, Bumpers, as well as the 4 Stand off posts in the chassis. So the FT body is quite structural for the most part. I did add many more screws to its panels. And it works for me.
Yet I know many others do have issues with the FT body ? FWIW.

I wouldn't say KT's experience with this 1/7 BR body is representative of the same mileage you will get.. He will destroy any RC.
Its Body retention setup, if anything, is probably it's one major Flaw if anything.
I would modify that BRCC body, using 2 Front posts and pin clips, in same fashion as the Mojave body, if I had to. I'm a firm believer in Body Posts and Pins, F and R being best.
The BRCC body attaches very different than a FT does. There is no comparison to be made.

 

[Garcbomber]

NO issues with My FT body.
It is keyed into the chassis at the Towers, Bumpers, as well as the 4 Stand off posts in the chassis. So the FT body is quite structural for the most part. I did add many more screws to its panels. And it works for me.
Yet I know many others do have issues with the FT body ? FWIW.

I wouldn't say KT's experience with this 1/7 BR body is representative of the same mileage you will get.. He will destroy any RC. The Body retention if anything is probably it's one Flaw if anything.

Both have a well-designed and robust cage, it's the polycarbonate FT panels and BR shell that is weak. Probably the same mold chemistry and thickness as the 4S Mojave.

My Mojave and Notorious bodies are tough, they'll crack eventually but usually nothing that gets out of hand within a couple bashes before plastic welding and/or E6000-Goo. The modern plastic they use appears to be just too brittle, especially in colder temps.

 

[SrC]

I agree about the Lexan thickness, if they are even truly made of Lexan at all.
I wonder sometimes what some of these Arrma RTR bodies are actually made of. I sometimes feel that the "Clear replacement bodies" may just be made of a different or better quality Polycarbonate. I always wonder about that. I've had both types side by side to compare.
I never felt that quality Lexan should get that brittle in colder temps. I feel they are quite temp resistant for the most part. The nature of true Lexan to begin with. I could be wrong. I never saw my Lexan bodies to be any more brittle in cold temps. The other plastic chassis parts, yes for sure.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Seen ton of bigrock bodies shattering. Thick lexan does that. My notorious body who had twice less the mileage of my kraton is approaching its demise. Shoe goo or any other reinforcement rips or unglues on thick lexan. While on the flexible thin lexan it bends and flexes it without snaping. More maleable ect. My nero body is not reinforceable... i have been trying to fix a crack for the third time and it keep ripping off in the first tumble. Even with a double layer of reinforced drywall.. i might attemps to fully repir the rear of my Nero body who is outerly destroyed but i could probably fix it permanently without it ever ripping out because the lexan is thin. Thin and medium thickness lexan is good but when the lexan is way too thick tot he point of shattering or snapping and theres pretty much nothing you can do it defeats the point in my opinion, lets also nor forget cold weather. Thick lexan hates cold weather. Its already extremly rigid and cold weather will turn it into glass

 

[Xjeepguy]

I usually go with Pro-line or J Concepts for this reason. I don’t know if they use a different lexan or what, but they seem to hold up better in the cold than stock bodies from any manufacturer.

 

[SrC]

+1
Yeah the Drywall shoogoo thing is a complete waste of Time and money. Been ther one too many times. I just use it patch them up if anything. But they still will break. I tried it all. Just replace the body when it is time. Or get an ugly $Unbreakable$ for hard bashing use. Probably the best way to go IMHO. I did that with my K6s , a PL $80. Bash Armor body. Never breaks now, not one crack at all. Abused the crap out of it. Ugly as sin, but works for bashing. I keep a new never used K6s body for the shelf. I ate way too many K6 bodies years past. As thin as it was, sure it flexed enough, but still rips apart.

I usually go with Pro-line or J Concepts for this reason. I don’t know if they use a different lexan or what, but they seem to hold up better in the cold than stock bodies from any manufacturer.

I think much depends on its body design "lines". Why some upgrade bodies are better.
JConcepts does have awesome stuff in regards. Well though out and functionally stronger design shapes..

 

[RC-Dude]

Had the same issue with the 3s Big Rock and Granite. Body cracked right away.

I use FIX IT Soudal (link to shop here) with simple glass tape instead of shoo goo. Its an SMX Hybrid Polymer. Used to use the full 300ml for a Mojave body but now down to about 150ml per Mojave Body. Works really well. Easier to apply than shoo goo. Only edges over rear bumper break and front fenders on the bottom side are where the body starts breaking. On the Big Rock and Granite it cracked anyway. If they land on the roof they simply get the whole impact.

 

[Garcbomber]

Any cracks need to be drilled with the hole at the end so they don’t continue, glue alone will never prevent that. Any corners or small cracks you can add structure by plastic welding staples or melting in more material.

E6000 is much more resilient to temperatures and is by far a better material bonding agent. Less flexible when fully cured.

Shoe Goo is for, well, shoes…

Plastic welding or riveting in structures is really the only way to “bash proof” a PC body. 2 years on this body, outlasted multiple sets of tires just like my Mojave…

 

[Xjeepguy]

+1
Yeah the Drywall shoogoo thing is a complete waste of Time and money. Been ther one too many times. I just use it patch them up if anything. But they still will break. I tried it all. Just replace the body when it is time. Or get an ugly $Unbreakable$ for hard bashing use. Probably the best way to go IMHO. I did that with my K6s , a PL $80. Bash Armor body. Never breaks now, not one crack at all. Abused the crap out of it. Ugly as sin, but works for bashing. I keep a new never used K6s body for the shelf. I ate way too many K6 bodies years past. As thin as it was, sure it flexed enough, but still rips apart.

I think much depends on its body design "lines". Why some upgrade bodies are better.
JConcepts does have awesome stuff in regards. Well though out and functionally stronger design shapes..

I agree 100% on the unbreakable bodies. I have one on my Xmaxx, and not only does it never break, it even seems to add some rigidity to the chassis. My Bash Bug body even looks kinda cool.

 

[Surchaufeur]

+1
Yeah the Drywall shoogoo thing is a complete waste of Time and money. Been ther one too many times. I just use it patch them up if anything. But they still will break. I tried it all. Just replace the body when it is time. Or get an ugly $Unbreakable$ for hard bashing use. Probably the best way to go IMHO. I did that with my K6s , a PL $80. Bash Armor body. Never breaks now, not one crack at all. Abused the crap out of it. Ugly as sin, but works for bashing. I keep a new never used K6s body for the shelf. I ate way too many K6 bodies years past. As thin as it was, sure it flexed enough, but still rips apart.

I think much depends on its body design "lines". Why some upgrade bodies are better.
JConcepts does have awesome stuff in regards. Well though out and functionally stronger design shapes..

Works extremly well on thin lexan bodies. My kraton 6s exb body was tortured for 3 years and it was held by the shoegoe and drywall. . Not so much on my notorious, the outcast 4s holding up well

I agree 100% on the unbreakable bodies. I have one on my Xmaxx, and not only does it never break, it even seems to add some rigidity to the chassis. My Bash Bug body even looks kinda cool.
View attachment 341670

Those things are so poorly manufacturer. Most of them from russia and you get whatever they send you. If you get send a defective one or an undersized one(my bigrock one doesn't reach to the bumpers) they give u the middle finger, but fonctionality over beauty for a lot of people.

Any cracks need to be drilled with the hole at the end so they don’t continue, glue alone will never prevent that. Any corners or small cracks you can add structure by plastic welding staples or melting in more material.

E6000 is much more resilient to temperatures and is by far a better material bonding agent. Less flexible when fully cured.

Shoe Goo is for, well, shoes…

Plastic welding or riveting in structures is really the only way to “bash proof” a PC body. 2 years on this body, outlasted multiple sets of tires just like my Mojave…

View attachment 341668

View attachment 341669

E6000 is shoe goo but in a different tube pretty sure. Same smell and everything. But might be wrong

 

[RC-Dude]

Ugly unbreakables...

View attachment 341678

 

[Surchaufeur]

Ugly unbreakables...

View attachment 341678
View attachment 341679


View attachment 341680

Ugly meaning no paintjob.... single colours with stickers that have trouble adhering to the slippery surface, in ur case you made 3d printed parts to create details

 

[SrC]

Works extremly well on thin lexan bodies. My kraton 6s exb body was tortured for 3 years and it was held by the shoegoe and drywall. . Not so much on my notorious, the outcast 4s holding up well

Those things are so poorly manufacturer. Most of them from russia and you get whatever they send you. If you get send a defective one or an undersized one(my bigrock one doesn't reach to the bumpers) they give u the middle finger, but fonctionality over beauty for a lot of people.

E6000 is shoe goo but in a different tube pretty sure. Same smell and everything. But might be wrong

I did my out the box kit K6 first body with the dry wall tape and E6000, which is just the commercial trade name for Shoogo. Same exact crap. Cheaper at THD than ShooGoo in Wally World. All to no avail within 3 packs. A pillars/front window corners, were all split open, areas that you can never patch up. I used some D wall and Hot glue. Lasted a bit longer. Still body is junk. The reason I went with the PL Bash Armor body is only because they warranty the body domestically here. For $80. supposed to be Plug and play out the package. It wasn't, the Holes being way off. They asked for the return and sent me one that did fit. Turn around was like over a month long, horrible serv. I called them direct and ask them to open the package and try it on a K6 first. They had one there, so they said. PL has super bad cost serv. IMHO. It was way better 20+ years ago.

 

[SrC]

Ugly meaning no paintjob.... single colours with stickers that have trouble adhering to the slippery surface, in ur case you made 3d printed parts to create details

+1
Lets face it, they are Fugly. Basher bodies anyway, getting all scratched and beat up anyway. They just need to be strong.
OE Kraton body is sweet looking, just not bash worthy.
I found the Red one to be faster..... on the shelf, BTW.

 

[Eno]

Probably the same mold chemistry and thickness as the 4S Mojave.

Man that fragile Mojave 4S body is the reason I refuse to buy one.

Arrma's bodys used to be thick and tough, the one on my Senton has seen hell and is still going strong three years later...

 

[Surchaufeur]

I did my out the box kit K6 first body with the dry wall tape and E6000, which is just the commercial trade name for Shoogo. Same exact crap. Cheaper at THD than ShooGoo in Wally World. All to no avail within 3 packs. A pillars/front window corners, were all split open, areas that you can never patch up. I used some D wall and Hot glue. Lasted a bit longer. Still body is junk. The reason I went with the PL Bash Armor body is only because they warranty the body domestically here. For $80. supposed to be Plug and play out the package. It wasn't, the Holes being way off. They asked for the return and sent me one that did fit. Turn around was like over a month long, horrible serv. I called them direct and ask them to open the package and try it on a K6 first. They had one there, so they said. PL has super bad cost serv. IMHO. It was way better 20+ years ago.

I don't know man but mine just doesn't break. The only breaking that happened was from my turbo fan smashing the rear of the body where the grill is. Wish i could show the state of my body right now but it was thrown by accident to the trash by my father.. I use the reinforced drywall who is pink and is more complex than simple drywall
From one of my last videos with it. I did put some patches on the outside and painted it black. It worked on stopping cracking spreading

3 years of abuse and it had a lot of it left
Omg i found 2 pictures. I took them comparing 3-4 years of abuse on my kraton exb body vs the notorious who was on its first year.
Kraton

Notorious

 

[Surchaufeur]

The little air intakes are what was hitting the rear of my body