Typhon Typhon 3s BLX 1/8 Track (re)Build

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
My Typhon 3s has been abused at the local RC track recently, so I figured this would be a good time to do a build thread on it. I’m new to the RC race track, but I’ve been modifying and bashing RC cars for a few years. I'm happy to receive any questions/comments/advice.


Here's a look at my Typhon running at track
 
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Thank you Neelis and Johnny b! I feel lucky to have this track nearby. It has been a lot of fun with the Typhon.

Modifications to the chassis:
  • Slot below the spur gear: Drilled two ¼” holes about 1” apart, then used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut from one drilled hole to the other. (Credit to Rich Duperbash for the idea)
  • Aluminum ESC mounting plate. Cut from a leftover piece of flat bar: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...m-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801937/204273949
  • Motor support: 1” x 1” piece of Scotch 2228 (thick rubber, moisture sealing, electrical tape) applied underneath the end of the motor. (My Chassis is cracked from the end of the motor hitting it)
  • Motor mount Saver: 4mm screw threaded into the hole on the far right side of the chassis in front of the power module. (milehighrc YT recommendation: "Arrma 3s Bent motor mount fix" )

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Most of the bearings were full of grit and would not turn. I tried removing the seals and cleaning them with brake fluid, but only about 1 in 3 came out smooth enough to reuse. I bought the Fast Eddie bearing replacement kit for the Typhon 3s on Amazon to replace the old ones. I'm planning to remove the seals and pack them with marine grease. Seems to work good with crawlers, but I haven't read anything about people doing it with faster cars.
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I buy pretty cheap bearings (1-2 euro depending on the size), take out the seal and pack them with TSL grease, works for me. They outlast the stock bearings for sure and last longer then with the original grease.
 
Thank you Neelis and Johnny b! I feel lucky to have this track nearby. It has been a lot of fun with the Typhon.

Modifications to the chassis:
  • Slot below the spur gear: Drilled two ¼” holes about 1” apart, then used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut from one drilled hole to the other. (Credit to Rich Duperbash for the idea)
  • Aluminum ESC mounting plate. Cut from a leftover piece of flat bar: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...m-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801937/204273949
  • Motor support: 1” x 1” piece of Scotch 2228 (thick rubber, moisture sealing, electrical tape) applied underneath the end of the motor. (My Chassis is cracked from the end of the motor hitting it)
  • Motor mount Saver: 4mm screw threaded into the hole on the far right side of the chassis in front of the power module. (milehighrc YT recommendation: "Arrma 3s Bent motor mount fix" )

IXbUromSCJencKrd6vq6jxwJaN7_URarYtbiv3FNBI0W803M65ZIgiNndWLJ8xpJFs9T1RRhR4zMGbJ1flm27d5OKLbV1sbTmqMsRVuaH78He2rC6A3AHeZZwWiINY38Jjd0QyfNK2JDPfYn2z2ZgqQ


Most of the bearings were full of grit and would not turn. I tried removing the seals and cleaning them with brake fluid, but only about 1 in 3 came out smooth enough to reuse. I bought the Fast Eddie bearing replacement kit for the Typhon 3s on Amazon to replace the old ones. I'm planning to remove the seals and pack them with marine grease. Seems to work good with crawlers, but I haven't read anything about people doing it with faster cars.
CHbn1E795oIGXiYkVf40nN9bX6Zq_2E-CWd9HK0d2Oh_bcSpOjVbM0rKzldVxvFCjtxnEj4pkZtCrFgr-rIBNuuZwXjw8b6OHy0yVgAr9orF4m0E47Yj25kqiMOzXMkEYKDCmvI-tieNVLoCfOAy7uY
Great tips! Gf and I both have a typhon. Converted my senton to 1 I liked hers so much.

IMG_20230922_123137165_HDR.jpg
 
I buy pretty cheap bearings (1-2 euro depending on the size), take out the seal and pack them with TSL grease, works for me. They outlast the stock bearings for sure and last longer then with the original grease.
That TSL grease looks like good stuff. I wonder if we have something similar in the USA.
 
Cleaning:
With bearings rusted in place and mud in every crevice, a thorough cleaning was in order.
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I removed the diffs, power module, and the electronics, then threw the rest in the sink for a good scrubbing with my wife’s toothbrush….kidding, kidding 🙂.
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Removing the old bearings:
Most of them could be removed by gently prying around the edges with the tip of a flat blade screwdriver.
The ones on the gearbox pinion shaft were not coming off with this method, so I put the pinion in a vise, wedged 2 flat blade screwdrivers on either side, and twisted them. This worked to move the bearing down about ¼”, then I put the screw driver shafts on top of the bearing and pressed down to completely remove it.
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Installing new bearings: For each new bearing, I removed a seal from one side using a tiny flat blade screwdriver and packed it with Lucas Marine Grease. To install the new bearings on the pinion shafts, I set an 11mm socket on top of the bearing and tapped it into place.
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Shimming the diffs:
When I bought the Typhon, the front and rear diffs each had one shim on the side opposite of the ring gear. The mesh between the ring gear and the pinion gear was very tight, but I did not shim it, because I thought it would break in and smooth out after running it for a while. Nope. It was still way too tight. I added an extra Kyosho 0.2 shim to the rear diff and 0.2 + 0.1 shims to the front diff to get the proper mesh.

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Drivetrain feels nice and smooth now!
 
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Electronics:
  • Motor and ESC: I chose the Hobbywing Max10 G2 ESC with the 3200kv motor, because it is sensored and has an IP-67 waterproof rating. I’ve had good luck with Hobbywing ESC’s.
  • Servo: Powerhobby 633MCW V2 Coreless HV
  • Radio: Flysky GT5 Nice display and lots of adjustability on this transmitter.



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Hot Racing ATF160B02 Complete 22-Piece Aluminum Pivot Ball Set
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RC Station 1/8 Scale Buggy Wheels and Tires 17mm Hex (Cheap, but not great)
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