What weight is eberyone running in all 3 diffs?

[Kraton4s]

Hi folks thanks for having me this is an excellent community. I have a question as I'm new to differentials. What weights does everyone run or suggest for the front / center / & rear. I have the handy chart that's pinned here but the chart doesn't have any weights as a reference point so im not sure what is ticker or thinner than. What comes stock on a kraton 4s 2.5? That would help me determine what weight I need to move to if I want it thicker. Any information you have on this is greatly appreciated

 

[GraniteFox]

30-750-20. 1MM would also work in the center. I change the center right away. Change the front and rear after 10-12 runs.

 

[Kraton4s]

30-750-20. 1MM would also work in the center. I change the center right away. Change the front and rear after 10-12 runs.

Thank you so much. I already ran it a bunch. I will change them out

30-750-20. 1MM would also work in the center. I change the center right away. Change the front and rear after 10-12 runs.

Is there a brand you recommend. I was looking to buy team associated but they don't have a 750k. They make a 500k and a 1mm. I did see a brand called Flashpoint that makes any weight you want. I couldn't find much info on the brand though.

 

[GraniteFox]

Just go with the 1MM.

If you are in the states, https://beachrc.com/ultimate-racing-diff-oil-750-000-cps-2oz/

 

[BruceRC]

I think the detailed Spec sheet on the product page from Arrma's site has the diff oil viscosity for each rig. For the K4s V2, it has this listed:

F:10,000 C:500,000 R:10,000cSt

Maybe it's different for the 2.5.

 

[Kraton4s]

I think the detailed Spec sheet on the product page from Arrma's site has the diff oil viscosity for each rig. For the K4s V2, it has this listed:

F:10,000 C:500,000 R:10,000cSt

Maybe it's different for the 2.5.

Just go with the 1MM.

If you are in the states, https://beachrc.com/ultimate-racing-diff-oil-750-000-cps-2oz/

IWhat would the major differences be between tbe 2 weights, 750k & 1mm? I'm about to place my order now. Thank you so much

 

[rcs29]

I think the detailed Spec sheet on the product page from Arrma's site has the diff oil viscosity for each rig. For the K4s V2, it has this listed:

F:10,000 C:500,000 R:10,000cSt

Maybe it's different for the 2.5.

Both versions are called the V2 but the "older" V2 doesn't have a center diff and the "new" V2 does. They really should've called these new ones V-anything other than 2.

 

[danny1202]

IWhat would the major differences be between tbe 2 weights, 750k & 1mm? I'm about to place my order now. Thank you so much

As said the standard oils are 10k 500k 10k

Obviously different weights will have different effects so you can get a lot of different opinions all of which a perfectly fine.

My main observation is no matter what you are going to do make sure the fluids are topped up, you will open your diff to find it half full so even if you choose standard weights that’s better then nothing.

I chose to keep my front and rear at standard 10k and put thicker in the centre to try and stop the front wheels ballooning so much. For this I got the 1million cst and just topped up the existing 500k with it.

I dint want to stray too far from stock set up on this one, and if I wasn’t happy I can always empty it and re fill with 1 million.

I think it’s up to you to have a play because you need a set up that you like. As long as the diffs are full your good to go

 

[GraniteFox]

1mm will give you slightly more even power to the front and rear. So think more wheelies and less ballooning in the front. Lighter weights will direct power to the less traction meaning more of the front pulling the car. This mean when you punch the throttle instead of wheelie the power gets transferred to the front wheels. Not a ton of difference between 750 and 1mm but if you want a little more wheelie type action then go 1MM.

 

[Kraton4s]

As said the standard oils are 10k 500k 10k

Obviously different weights will have different effects so you can get a lot of different opinions all of which a perfectly fine.

My main observation is no matter what you are going to do make sure the fluids are topped up, you will open your diff to find it half full so even if you choose standard weights that’s better then nothing.

I chose to keep my front and rear at standard 10k and put thicker in the centre to try and stop the front wheels ballooning so much. For this I got the 1million cst and just topped up the existing 500k with it.

I dint want to stray too far from stock set up on this one, and if I wasn’t happy I can always empty it and re fill with 1 million.

I think it’s up to you to have a play because you need a set up that you like. As long as the diffs are full your good to go

Yea the front wheels balloon alot. Thank you for the insight I appreciate your time.

1mm will give you slightly more even power to the front and rear. So think more wheelies and less ballooning in the front. Lighter weights will direct power to the less traction meaning more of the front pulling the car. This mean when you punch the throttle instead of wheelie the power gets transferred to the front wheels. Not a ton of difference between 750 and 1mm but if you want a little more wheelie type action then go 1MM.

Perfect this is what I was looking for. I was going with 1mm for the center and a few other members have said to leave the 10k stock on the front and back just top them up. I was considering going to what was suggested for me which was 30k in front and 20k in rear. I guess I just have to trial and error the weights till I find what I like. Thank you for the reply

 

[danny1202]

30k 1m 20k should be good as well, I was considering upping the front a bit if I wasn’t happy with the current set up but I’d like to have a few more runs at different locations just to see how things feel.

I’ve only had it out in the rain so far so don’t want to judge it on that, I noticed the front ballooned less but the rears more but I was on a very greasy wet tarmac so it was just very spiny any way. Felt good on the bmx track but I was only blipping the finger so again, hard to judge.

 

[Kraton4s]

30k 1m 20k should be good as well, I was considering upping the front a bit if I wasn’t happy with the current set up but I’d like to have a few more runs at different locations just to see how things feel.

I’ve only had it out in the rain so far so don’t want to judge it on that, I noticed the front ballooned less but the rears more but I was on a very greasy wet tarmac so it was just very spiny any way. Felt good on the bmx track but I was only blipping the finger so again, hard to judge.

Yea I understand. I run mine mostly at a nice BMX park myself and the weather won't let up. I'm going to order myself some ultimate racing diff oils now based on your guys recommendations. I wonder if I should get other weights too just to have on hand to experiment with different set ups. Also while we're on oils i have a few newbie questions on shock oil. I believe 500cst is standard on the kraton form my reading but that might be wrong. My first question is what weight do you guys suggest or run for heavy bashing on BMX tracks mostly. Lots of jumping. My 2nd question is why do some companies list their oil in wt and some so csp and some do cst. For a beginner this is confusing me lol. Can someone enlighten me on these and how to cross reference them. Thann you

 

[Kraton4s]

Yea I understand. I run mine mostly at a nice BMX park myself and the weather won't let up. I'm going to order myself some ultimate racing diff oils now based on your guys recommendations. I wonder if I should get other weights too just to have on hand to experiment with different set ups. Also while we're on oils i have a few newbie questions on shock oil. I believe 500cst is standard on the kraton form my reading but that might be wrong. My first question is what weight do you guys suggest or run for heavy bashing on BMX tracks mostly. Lots of jumping. My 2nd question is why do some companies list their oil in wt and some so csp and some do cst. For a beginner this is confusing me lol. Can someone enlighten me on these and how to cross reference them. Thann you

Ignore the cst conversion question I found a handy chart lol. But the other questions are still valid thank you

 

[danny1202]

To be fair I’ve not really addressed the shock oil set up my self just yet, I broke a few shocks so upgraded to Kraton 6s shocks, they have 100,000 cst, obviously they help with heavy landings but I’m not sure if it’s helped my handeling..? Right now if I was going to do anything I’d go back to 500. But again it’s all about how it feels for you. I’d personally focus on one thing at a time and just tweak as you go. Most alterations are probably un noticeable unless your a pro racer or something..?

I think your doing right by looking into the diffs first because there probably only half full out the box so defo want a top up

 

[JLspeeddragon]

Doing a 4S Talion Racer build.. (backyard Track, med-hard pack with some loom), and some occasional 6S fun bashing..
Not a send to the moon build.
F/R Diffs: 6S BLX open @ 20K weight.
Shock Oil: Front 45K, Rear 50K.
Center: 6S EXB LSD (max LSD both sides) 50K, It feels like 100K.
Motor/ESC: HW Max 8 4278 2250Kv combo.
Batteries: Zeee 4S 14.8v 120C 7200 Hard case. Zeee premium LCG 3S 11.1 5000Mah Hard case (Dual)
This is just my initial build setup of what I had on hand for the fluids. Most likely may / will be changed accordingly after some test-n-tune.

Ignore the cst conversion question I found a handy chart lol. But the other questions are still valid thank you

Well I don't own any of the 4S Arrma's but I would experiment with different weights. I know the 6S line usually comes with different shock pistons to adjust for your bashing / racing environment.. which can and will effect the different weight oils you choose to use.. I know by default the 6S Kraton / Talion come with the 8 hole piston. I have swapped mine out for the 6 hole x 1.3?