Senton 3s drivetrain opinions?

[jmxgee]

I shredded the stock front diff and took the opportunity to drop in some upgrades.

Hot Racing ATF4801 Bellcrank
Savox SW-023MG Servo
AARMA Metal Input Gear ARA311153
AARMA Metal Diff Set ARA311155

The rest of the drivetrain is currently 3s blx stock. I got it back together and ran it with this configuration. Steering is night and day better and I’m not sure if it is the added weight up front but the truck handles much better in loose sandy soil.
I realize most people would put the metal diff in the rear and I’m planning next steps.. so..

I have a new spur on hand.

Hot Racing STFF257N 57T 0.8 Steel

1. Would you buy the same diff set for the rear or is there a better option?

2. How many slipper pads should I install with this spur? (I’ve seen conflicting views here, 3 or 4?)

3. Would you upgrade the driveshafts? If so.. to what?

Goals:

I don’t beat on this vehicle.. I prefer tuning and handling performance over altitude, wrecks and speed runs.

I also have a Mojave 4s that I haven’t ran yet.. It would be handy to get this Senton 4s capable at some point as well.

Thanks for your opinions.

Dry fit pic from install.

 

[Neelis]

If you are looking into performance improvements, I can recommend upgrading to steel pivot balls:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/typhon-3s-spare-diff.61287/post-983993
The Traxxas pivot balls 5525 and 5529

I would say the metal diffs from Arrma are good and I hear nothing but good stories about the HR alu yokes, but you can confirm that yourself.

 

[jmxgee]

Thanks.. I’ve got these pivot balls on hand as well but didn’t install yet.. waiting on new rod ends.

@Neelis - I like those steel pivots you have.. cool build.. wish I saw that before I got the aluminum set.

 

[flipsim59]

Tried these, aluminum wore out really quick. I have replaced them tie rod sets from Amazon, holding up well.

 

[slick2500]

Thanks.. I’ve got these pivot balls on hand as well but didn’t install yet.. waiting on new rod ends.

View attachment 347495

@Neelis - I like those steel pivots you have.. cool build.. wish I saw that before I got the aluminum set.

Those aren't very good.

 

[oldguywnewtoy]

I can confirm that those red alum. pivot balls aren't worth installing. I know you bought them already, and that's part of the learning curve, but the steel ones hold up a lot better. I got the Slash ones from Jennys and just used the rod ends.

 

[jmxgee]

I can confirm that those red alum. pivot balls aren't worth installing. I know you bought them already, and that's part of the learning curve, but the steel ones hold up a lot better. I got the Slash ones from Jennys and just used the rod ends.

yeah.. realizing that.. won’t be the first or last time I burn dollars in this hobby.. heh..

any thoughts on my original questions in this thread around driveline?

 

[oldguywnewtoy]

I know some guys upgrade the axle shafts, but I've been running the stock ones for 3 years now without issue. I just replace em when the u-joints get sloppy. All my spares come from Jennys RC. I run 2s at a local track ( I don't race, just run on practice days ), and 3s everywhere else.

 

[slick2500]

yeah.. realizing that.. won’t be the first or last time I burn dollars in this hobby.. heh..

any thoughts on my original questions in this thread around driveline?

Yeah sorry I never had any issues with the diffs, center driveshafts or rear driveshafts but broke fronts constantly. I've had my 3s since 2018 and have only ever replaced one diff and it failed because the chassis broke directly under it. The stock plastic diffs in these work just fine up to 6s use, but I would highly recommend the aluminum diff yolks if you go 4s and only do 6s on road.