Kraton 4s driveshafts now available

[Outcastblxnut]

Just got this email

 

[jondilly1974]

At $100 a set I’m gonna pass. I may buy the 3S ones for the Typhon tho.

 

[slick2500]

Has anyone checked the temperature in hell lately ?

 

[arrmadillo]

Man, C note a pop, puts you in 6s territory.

 

[RC-RAD]

Hmmmmm. Thinking of picking up a set.....must........stop....upgrading.....but....hard to....resist.

 

[birdley35]

Man I’m with you on this one $100 for a complete set, I was going to buy just two for the front to try because I popped a drive shaft on Sunday for the first time .

 

[Surchaufeur]

Rip 100$ its the same concept of the 3s shafts but longer plastic sliders

 

[bicketybam]

Rip 100$ its the same concept of the 3s shafts but longer plastic sliders

$10 more per pair. So $80 for the 3S and $100 for the 4S.

 

[RC-RAD]

Do these solve the issue with the pins popping out of the u-joints? I assume so since these are CVD. I probably answered my own question but just want to confirm.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Do these solve the issue with the pins popping out of the u-joints? I assume so since these are CVD. I probably answered my own question but just want to confirm.

The only way for the pins to pop out on the stock shafts is if your clutch is too tight or in a ackward landing the upgraded ones the whole shaft where the bearings sits and where the U join is located is metal the only plastic is the sliding hubs

$10 more per pair. So $80 for the 3S and $100 for the 4S.

Also what means "on order" status at tower hobbies the metal diffs afe under that status

 

[RC-RAD]

The only way for the pins to pop out on the stock shafts is if your clutch is too tight or in a ackward landing the upgraded ones the whole shaft where the bearings sits and where the U join is located is metal the only plastic is the sliding hubs

Thanks. I'll probably hold off on these CVD until I go through the spares of driveshafts I've collected. My pins have popped out when I was doing high speed donuts. It looked like the torque from the donuts stretched out the hole where the pin sits in. Since then I've stopped doing donuts in fear of popping any driveshafts which is a shame because I love seeing a large dust cloud from donuts...sigh

 

[Surchaufeur]

Try beat me with stretched u join holes they never poped out i own the record for driveshaft abuse ? if yours don't look like this at all and they poped it further confirms what im saying the clutch is not slipping enough

Happened because i ran a tight clutch because i was noob decided to remplace the rear with new ones after 10-15 packs they have almost no slop vs the front who are sloppy af
You can donut just loosen your clutch you don't need a tigt clutch on an outcast 4s that thing will wheelie and do standing backflips even with a loose clutch watch kevin talbot he treats is outcast like a soccer ball

 

[RC-RAD]

Try beat me with stretched u join holes they never poped outView attachment 86135
Happened because i ran a tight clutch because i was noob decided to remplace the rear with new ones after 10-15 packs they have almost no slop vs the front who are sloppy af
You can donut just loosen your clutch you don't need a tigt clutch on an outcast 4s that thing will wheelie and do standing backflips even with a loose clutch watch kevin talbot he treats is outcast like a soccer ball

Challenge accepted lol. This pic is from my Kraton and has also happened to my outcast. Maybe it is my clutch?....I have it set to 1.25turns. I don’t really want to change it since it’s been running pretty flawlessly, aside from high speed donut of course.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Da fack are your bearings okay it needs a lot of drag to cause that kind of damage i doubt you have 1.25turn from tight personally. I don't trust the ratings how i do it from now on i leave my clutch at 1.75 turn from tight with red threadlock so that the slipper doesn't crap on itself after i start tightenening and starts getting loose because i broke the bond.

I run it on open field and hear what noise it makes i run on 15t i ear a bit of whining of slippage but it wheelies on command and does exactly what i want it to do. If it wheelies too soon in the kraton case or wheelies when you don't want to wheelie or doesn't want to wheelie at all and all you hear is whining non stop are the signs of slipper set uncorrectly. I tight it each time by 0.20-0.15 turns on the field until i find the perfect tuning i use the sliper hub markings and my driver 2mm grub screw and i alight them with the slipper hub holes. I use permatex red threadlock maybe other threadlocks will completly weld the screw in place and you wont be able to tune it on the field
Arrma plastic thicc the traxxas ones just snap lol

 

[RC-RAD]

Bearings are ay-okay. From initial thought, those were my original driveshaft that came stock. I was having slipper issues in the beginning so maybe it started there and the donuts was just enough for the pins to pop out. I was surprised when it happened again to my O4S.

I'm going to run my rigs later today and I'll look at the u-joints before I start running them, perform some donuts, and investigate if they stretched out any. If they do pop today from donuts then I'll likely pick up these CVD.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Da fack are your bearings okay it needs a lot of drag to cause that kind of damage i doubt you have 1.25turn from tight personally. I don't trust the ratings how i do it from now on i leave my clutch at 1.75 turn from tight with red threadlock so that the slipper doesn't crap on itself after i start tightenening and starts getting loose because i broke the bond.

I run it on open field and hear what noise it makes i run on 15t i ear a bit of whining of slippage but it wheelies on command and does exactly what i want it to do. If it wheelies too soon in the kraton case or wheelies when you don't want to wheelie or doesn't want to wheelie at all and all you hear is whining non stop are the signs of slipper set uncorrectly. I tight it each time by 0.20-0.15 turns on the field until i find the perfect tuning i use the sliper hub markings and my driver 2mm grub screw and i alight them with the slipper hub holes. I use permatex red threadlock maybe other threadlocks will completly weld the screw in place and you wont be able to tune it on the field
Arrma plastic thicc the traxxas ones just snap lol

I will recommand bringing an allen keybor a 2mm driver its fairly essy to adjust the clutch on the field untightening it by 1/4 turn wont hurt really an outcast 4s to my eyes the 4s doesn't need upgraded driveshafts at all unless you are running crazy power

 

[Vietnemesis]

Wholely wow, these things are a quarter the cost of the vehicle. I’ve only had my RC a couple weeks and hope the stock ones don’t break anytime soon lol.

 

[aznbaker]

Guess I will let everyone know how they hold up. Ordered 2 sets earlier. (Of course they come in after buying 2 rear sets as spares)...lol

 

[slick2500]

Wholely wow, these things are a quarter the cost of the vehicle. I’ve only had my RC a couple weeks and hope the stock ones don’t break anytime soon lol.

The Hot Racing ones for the 3s models are like $160 bucks or so.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

I’ll buy um when I run outta stock. The ones in my brcc are tough as nails.