Order66
Lover of reproducible results
Noob alert here. Glad to find this thread, but want to ask a bit further on the topic
I just got a new Talion and Mojave, and I think that I’m experiencing the same issue. New packs cutting out at 3.8V. All cells reading uniform voltages within .01
I quickly learned that the new 185 ESCs no longer offer a choice between NiMH and LiPo (and now only 5 speed settings too), so I can’t use this workaround, but yeah, why is it shutting down at 3.8?
Can someone detail the different modes Im experiencing near the end of a run? I observe a different behaviors at this time:
1) Truck stops. Resetting power switch brings full juice again for a time. Can usually do this 2-3x
2) Truck runs slowly. I end the run
Voltages in condition 1 (if I don’t restart) are on the order of 3.9-4V. Again all batts within .01
Voltages in condition 2 reach 3.7
I outfitted with YR esc booster and motor fan, but running in Oregon, 55 degree weather
I’m running middle-high end 6S packs with 75C discharge rate and 6500 mAh capacity. I only use balance charge mode, but must also confess that I’ve only charge cycled them 3-4x. Will this improve with battery life? I’ve read here and there that batt packs need a few cycles to reach peak capacity.
What I’d ultimately like to do is bypass the ESC control of my pack altogether and just use a third party LVA. In the event that I upgrade the power train, what’s a recommended motor/esc combo for the Mojave that will allow me to do this? (The Mojave is my current fave of the two)
Huge ups to the contributors in this thread. You’re doing Gods work and it’s thanks to your guidance that in three weeks of deep woods and sandlot bashing, I’ve smashed and successfully replaced the following:
(Go easy, again, noob here and I’ve only managed 2-3 runs where something was not gored, ground up or gnashed)
exploded center diff (Mojave, first run. Arrma replaced it!)
snapped A arms (both rigs)
snapped suspension rod ends (Talion, keeps happening)
Ripped tires (put the Talion tires on the Mojave- try to keep the front end on the ground!)
broken body and bumper mounts
Mojave body taking a serious beating
Servo in Talion (went with broken suspension arm)
Also, I put Proline slingshot 3.8s on the Talion and cannot keep the thing off of it’s roof in the sand! Is the fix for this a wheelie bar or a ballast weight in the front end?
Sorry for this smorgasboard of Qs, at the moment I just want a few more precious seconds of bashing, at any cost!
And a SERIOUS shout out to Arrma about the Mojave. I have not driven an RC since my Tamiya Hotshot in 1983 and I feel like a pro every time it lands on its feet, digs in, and speeds off. The thing practically drives itself! If you are thinking of getting one, do it.
The Talion spends a lot of its time airborne or cartwheeling; it obviously takes a good deal more finesse but I’m learning
Last note, per discussions elsewhere here, I swapped diff fluids on both rigs to 1M center and 50K front and rear. Noticeable difference in my ability to control! But is this goo cutting into run time?
I just got a new Talion and Mojave, and I think that I’m experiencing the same issue. New packs cutting out at 3.8V. All cells reading uniform voltages within .01
I quickly learned that the new 185 ESCs no longer offer a choice between NiMH and LiPo (and now only 5 speed settings too), so I can’t use this workaround, but yeah, why is it shutting down at 3.8?
Can someone detail the different modes Im experiencing near the end of a run? I observe a different behaviors at this time:
1) Truck stops. Resetting power switch brings full juice again for a time. Can usually do this 2-3x
2) Truck runs slowly. I end the run
Voltages in condition 1 (if I don’t restart) are on the order of 3.9-4V. Again all batts within .01
Voltages in condition 2 reach 3.7
I outfitted with YR esc booster and motor fan, but running in Oregon, 55 degree weather
I’m running middle-high end 6S packs with 75C discharge rate and 6500 mAh capacity. I only use balance charge mode, but must also confess that I’ve only charge cycled them 3-4x. Will this improve with battery life? I’ve read here and there that batt packs need a few cycles to reach peak capacity.
What I’d ultimately like to do is bypass the ESC control of my pack altogether and just use a third party LVA. In the event that I upgrade the power train, what’s a recommended motor/esc combo for the Mojave that will allow me to do this? (The Mojave is my current fave of the two)
Huge ups to the contributors in this thread. You’re doing Gods work and it’s thanks to your guidance that in three weeks of deep woods and sandlot bashing, I’ve smashed and successfully replaced the following:
(Go easy, again, noob here and I’ve only managed 2-3 runs where something was not gored, ground up or gnashed)
exploded center diff (Mojave, first run. Arrma replaced it!)
snapped A arms (both rigs)
snapped suspension rod ends (Talion, keeps happening)
Ripped tires (put the Talion tires on the Mojave- try to keep the front end on the ground!)
broken body and bumper mounts
Mojave body taking a serious beating
Servo in Talion (went with broken suspension arm)
Also, I put Proline slingshot 3.8s on the Talion and cannot keep the thing off of it’s roof in the sand! Is the fix for this a wheelie bar or a ballast weight in the front end?
Sorry for this smorgasboard of Qs, at the moment I just want a few more precious seconds of bashing, at any cost!
And a SERIOUS shout out to Arrma about the Mojave. I have not driven an RC since my Tamiya Hotshot in 1983 and I feel like a pro every time it lands on its feet, digs in, and speeds off. The thing practically drives itself! If you are thinking of getting one, do it.
The Talion spends a lot of its time airborne or cartwheeling; it obviously takes a good deal more finesse but I’m learning
Last note, per discussions elsewhere here, I swapped diff fluids on both rigs to 1M center and 50K front and rear. Noticeable difference in my ability to control! But is this goo cutting into run time?
