6S Diffs - Pinion shimming?

[Eno]

Do you guys shim the pinion gear in the 6S diffs? I have a feeling my mesh could be improved:

 

[hobo]

yes

 

[Camaroboy383]

Do you guys shim the pinion gear in the 6S diffs? I have a feeling my mesh could be improved:

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Yes, the more heel to toe tooth contact you can get the better..keep in mind pinion shimming must happen first.. then backlash shimming.. you can place shims behind the inner pinion bearing...

 

[Eno]

Guys, I am an idiot...

The diff wasn't seated fully in the case. Now it is and now the mesh seems fine. I might add another shim to the crown gear side, the pinion I can leave alone for now.

Thanks for putting up with me lol.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Guys, I am an idiot...

The diff wasn't seated fully in the case. Now it is and now the mesh seems fine. I might add another shim to the crown gear side, the pinion I can leave alone for now.

Thanks for putting up with me lol.

It happens.. sometimes those shims are a pain and don't let the carrier seat all the way..

It is still worth shimming the pinion for maximum tooth contact.. if there is any heel exposed on the pinion it's good to set it in further.. it makes them much stronger and less prone to popping teeth..

 

[SrC]

Do you guys shim the pinion gear in the 6S diffs? I have a feeling my mesh could be improved:

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You def can ring in some of that slop. Just know that a slight tick of play is needed. Seems the tooth contact angle of main and input is way off for sure.
>>>Are those pix of the Main and Input gears, with the Bulkhead "cover" screwed into place?
That's the best way to observe for accurate Mesh.
Before all this, make sure the Input cup is grub locked so the Input gear has no fore and aft travel. Yet not tight where it binds up. Or your Input gear shimming might be incorrect.

 

[Eno]

It is still worth shimming the pinion for maximum tooth contact..

That's what I did ultimately. One .2 shim behind the pinion and two .2 shims behind the crown gear.

 

[MrTitanium]

Guys, I am an idiot...

The diff wasn't seated fully in the case. Now it is and now the mesh seems fine. I might add another shim to the crown gear side, the pinion I can leave alone for now.

Thanks for putting up with me lol.

No worries. We’ve all had brain farts at one point or another.

 

[SrC]

What I thought, posted above.
Bulkhead Cover needs to be In place and screwed on first to measure any visible backlash. Otherwise a fail.
You caught it, what matters.

 

[RCbuzz]

Nice catch @SrC! I was thinking when I saw the photo, that mesh looks terrible, to the point I was wondering if the diff case was cracked or malformed.

 

[SrC]

Been there, trust me. The only reason I know. Now you know as well.
Nice work.
I probably built 6s open diffs well over a hundred times so far. Literally.

Sending good pix always helps solve things quickly.

 

[hobo]

That's what I did ultimately. One .2 shim behind the pinion and two .2 shims behind the crown gear.

I have never put any shims behind the pinion on the diff should imagine that makes it super tight. I suppose all diffs are different though

 

[SrC]

TBH I only had maybe one diff that needed one shim. In all my years with these diffs. Yet some Input gears /pinion come shimmed out the box, FWIW.

 

[The Bean]

I actually wanted to ask the same question, but I noticed this was already posted. What size shims am I supposed to use? I read 8x10mm somewhere, but for whatever reason I can only find 8x12mm in my area.

 

[Eno]

Yes, 8x10 is what I used. I wouldn't recommend going with the 8x12 ones.

These are easy to get over here in Germany, those shops should also be shipping to the Netherlands.

If all else fails I can order the shims and send them to you, just let me know.

EDIT: These are the ones I am using: https://tamico.de/3Racing-Stahl-Shimscheiben-8x10mm-01-02-03mm-je-10-Stk

I would also recommend getting some 13x16 .1 shims for more precise shimming on the ring gear side (the shims Arrma provides are all .2 in thickness).