I finally got the Allin RC rear plates yesterday, a week later than advertised from amazon.. I had no fitment issues with the plates, well the rear anyways. I haven't even opened the fronts since the stock Arrma bits are still rather tight. I have yet to break any of my Arrma plates, they just wear out and get sloppy. With new arms and plates installed on the rear of my Kraton armed Mojo, I still have a bit of play in the arms. I decided to reuse the original Arrma hinge pins thinking they might be better quality than the Allin brand pins, and they may very well be, but also may have a healthy amount of wear from 2+ years of use.. so, I'm going to try the Allin hinge pins and see if that tightens things up. I don't want sloppy "new"arms/hinges before I even start running the truck.No, no. Wait. It's not a matter of needing long screws. I don't wanna steer you wrong. You have to have a diamond tip dremel bit to fit into theholes to grind them inward and downward towards the chassis...not away.
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If you got em' and found out the hard way like I did, nearly stripping the threads on the bulkhead fighting it, not knowing why in the hell it won't go, I'd feel guilty.
Wow! $250 for a servo?! Dang, I paid $260 for the servo, esc and motor in my K8S, LOL. I suppose if I had the disposable income, I would do similar.You always have great ideas Dan! I don’t disagree this would probably be the best way. I just really don’t want another electrical system I have to remember to unplug, and another battery I have to maintain. I know me, I’m going to forget .
I use these Castle BEC’s in my drift cars, and this Castle BEC may work for my power hungry servos!
I just noticed that BEC wouldn’t work, it says 6S max for surface. This BEC may be better, and I’m going to pair with this NSDRC servo, when it comes in stock .
Edit: Amain had one, just pulled the trigger. Bye bye AGFRC
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