Kraton Are my diffs internally shimmed right?

[cmoney]

Hey all. I’ve popped one of my 6s diffs open, and following the guide posted on here, I shimmed planetary gears, satellite’s, and out drives. After the first dry fit, it felt slightly notchy, so I opened it up and removed the diff cup side planetary shim. This helped, but it’s still ever so slightly notchy (as in, I can feel a slight pattern) but it’s really smooth, even without fluid. The word notchy is an overestimate.. it’s barely that. I assume it’s normal for a dry diff to feel like that.

Is this what I should be going for, or should I put the shim back in to make it slightly tighter? Or maybe just ditch the other planetary shim to possibly make the diff smoother, and less noticeably notchy.

 

[djrahbee]

It will feel notchy especially if the gears are new. New gears will wear in. As far as the shim you took out I'd put it back unless it's locking/jamming the diff up completely.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Thats up for debate. O use the mugen seiki shims like how rich duperbash used to do them. No issues on my infraction

 

[cmoney]

It will feel notchy especially if the gears are new. New gears will wear in. As far as the shim you took out I'd put it back unless it's locking/jamming the diff up completely.

Sweet- thank you! Yeah, I figured notchiness is what happens when the mesh hasn’t worn together yet. How many packs does this take, and is it noticeable in noise/performance when it meshes? Thanks.

Thats up for debate. O use the mugen seiki shims like how rich duperbash used to do them. No issues on my infraction

I’m using them too!

 

[djrahbee]

How many packs does this take, and is it noticeable in noise/performance when it meshes?

I'd run a couple packs through and then check the diffs again. Not really noticeable that I can recall.

 

[cmoney]

I'd run a couple packs through and then check the diffs again. Not really noticeable that I can recall.

Sweet.

I originally opened up the front end bc I had some clicking when braking and stopping, overall suspicious behavior. But when opening the diff, nothing was abnormal at all in terms of gear wear.. hoping more shimming helps a ton!

 

[hobo]

Sweet.

I originally opened up the front end bc I had some clicking when braking and stopping, overall suspicious behavior. But when opening the diff, nothing was abnormal at all in terms of gear wear.. hoping more shimming helps a ton!

have you shimmed the diff on the gear side when you put the diff back in the car cause that can cause clicking also. mine was clicking so I checked the front diff and it was the diff cover that was broken where the screw go's in

 

[cmoney]

Could you elaborate?

 

[RC-Dude]

Shim them so tight that it won't turn easily. Then take out one or two shims , depending on thickness. If it turns easily you're fine. Pull and press the drive cups. No play or minimal = perfect.

 

[slick2500]

Thats up for debate. O use the mugen seiki shims like how rich duperbash used to do them. No issues on my infraction

The Mugen shims are much better than the Arrma ones, the Arrma ones bend and deform the Mugen ones do not.

 

[Surchaufeur]

The Mugen shims are much better than the Arrma ones, the Arrma ones bend and deform the Mugen ones do not.

Yeah. Specially for the big gears. Support area for the whole gear than stock.

 

[cmoney]

Shim them so tight that it won't turn easily. Then take out one or two shims , depending on thickness. If it turns easily you're fine. Pull and press the drive cups. No play or minimal = perfect.

Wow. This is awesome. Kind of goes against what others have said, some say its best to only shim to take play out and not affect any friction?

 

[RC-Dude]

You need to get the play out as good as you can. Those teeth are so small - too much play means the working surface area of the different gears touching is too small. That's what breaks them then. They hardly ever break inside the diff if you elimnate the play. The friction turns out to be OK when you shim out the play. You then "adjust the friction" by oil thickness / viscosity. You must be able to turn the diff once it's closed. That way you see the two axles inside the diff are properly interlocked. Otherwise is blocks.

 

[slick2500]

You need to get the play out as good as you can. Those teeth are so small - too much play means the working surface area of the different gears touching is too small. That's what breaks them then. They hardly ever break inside the diff if you elimnate the play. The friction turns out to be OK when you shim out the play. You then "adjust the friction" by oil thickness / viscosity. You must be able to turn the diff once it's closed. That way you see the two axles inside the diff are properly interlocked. Otherwise is blocks.

I'm yet to strip out one of those internal gears, even after years of use they still look brand new. Now pins, outdrive cups, ring and pinion gears are an entirely different story all together.