Kraton Arrma Kraton V4 6s diff shims needed?

[rctuner1000]

Hey guys just bought my V4 last night, are diff shims necessary in the new V4 kraton? I’ll be pulling them down to replace fluid in all the diffs anyway. Also what are you guys running for fluids? TIA

 

[SrC]

New to AF?
Welcome.
Congrats on your V4 Kraton. Having both a Notorious (V3) and now my Kraton (V4), I can say the V4 diffs are shimmed way better already.
I would just change out the center diff fluid for now from the beginning. You will get better control upping your center diff fluid. I am running 200K CST. You can go to 500K if you want. Rgardless of your version Kraton. I found that sometimes the fluids are not completely filled also. And the 4 diff screws holding the all the diffs together are not tight and may cause leaking/ weeping of the fluids. Checking all is a great idea.
I am running 60K/Front and 20K/Rear. Lower than the Stock 100k (F/R). Others have tried different. But the key is The center at a thicker 200K vs stock 100k. Diffingg out is an initial problem with the center diff when running 6s vs 4s lipos.

Others may chime here. Check over all hardware for tightness on the chassis. Make sure you check your wheels and tires also. An extra bead of tire glue will prevent tires form coming apart. The factory doesn't do the best job at gluing them. Check all the tires beads. Trust me on this one. Often overlooked until a tire starts to come off and even ripps apart, then its too late to reglue.
Good luck.

 

[rctuner1000]

New to AF?
Welcome.
Congrats on your V4 Kraton. Having both a Notorious (V3) and now my Kraton (V4), I can say the V4 diffs are shimmed way better already.
I would just change out the center diff fluid for now from the beginning. You will get better control upping your center diff fluid. I am running 200K CST. You can go to 500K if you want. Rgardless of your version Kraton. I found that sometimes the fluids are not completely filled also. And the 4 diff screws holding the all the diffs together are not tight and may cause leaking/ weeping of the fluids. Checking all is a great idea.
I am running 60K/Front and 20K/Rear. Lower than the Stock 100k (F/R). Others have tried different. But the key is The center at a thicker 200K vs stock 100k. Diffingg out is an initial problem with the center diff when running 6s vs 4s lipos.

Others may chime here. Check over all hardware for tightness on the chassis. Make sure you check your wheels and tires also. An extra bead of tire glue will prevent tires form coming apart. The factory doesn't do the best job at gluing them. Check all the tires beads. Trust me on this one. Often overlooked until a tire starts to come off and even ripps apart, then its too late to reglue.
Good luck.

Great thank you for the reply! I just sold my v3 not to long ago and I couldn’t remember what fluids I used, shimming the diffs on it worked great. I had hoped arrma would address the diff shimming issue and it sounds like they have! Thanks for all the other info as well, I will do a once over on Everything and make sure all is good.
Can you tell me if the steering Ackerman, servo mount and servo saver are still an issue on this model? TIA
I’ve already ordered all the rpm components for this one. Along with the dusty motors protection cover.

 

[SrC]

Great that you have experience with the V3. You are way ahead of most Arrma Newbs. I swapped out the Servo mount on my Kraton with a HR one. But on my Noto. I didn't. The Stock servo mount was upgraded during V3 if I am correct. And my Noto. steering is fine without any upgrade. I have never bent my ackerman plate. Other have. I never changed it out. Don't need to. IMO. until it fails if it even does. A new servo may be on your list. But run the stock till it goes. My Noto still has the stock one ironically. But it is weak and slow IMO. I have the dusty motors cover. Its ok. Nothing to write home about considering its price. I use it rarely now. I put the tall side guards from the Noto on my Kraton so it doesn't get dirty inside now. The servo saver on the V4 is not adjustable. I changed that over to the V3 version instead. because it is adjustable. But I use a good amount of Threadlocker on the SS hub assy before I tighten it up. I like my SS very snug and tight and use a FanModel 25KG servo. I tried a Savox 1210. I hated it. Especially considering the price I paid.

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Model-Wa...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B078WVXP4Y

I am sure others may chime in. I did some other mods and upgrades on my V4 Kraton.
-changedout the V4 radio to a Tactic V3 radio.
-put stainless springs inside of the F/R input gear cups to quiet the center drive shaft yokes.
- put AE 1000cst oil in front and rear shocks. Used the included front shock pistons in the rear. (smaller holes=more dampening at the rear)
-TBR front bumper and rear wheeliebar bumper.
-shimmed all 4 hub outer bearings with the tekno outer diff shims. ( got rid of a lot of wheel axel slop)
-custom mounted two 20mm fans to the stock BLX motor( one on each end) need a pic to understand how I did that.
-running 16T pinion. Best speed with fresh rubber sealed bearings got me 63 MPH.
-Went with the Red Kraton body over the blue one because it is faster.
-Running either Duratrax Truggy race wheels or the 6S BF tires. BF LP tires are forever on back order. I prefer smaller diameter wheels/tires. I set my Kraton more like a Track truggy for bashing. The Duratrax X-Con c2 tires are great.IMO.
-Upgraded to Avid Titanium droop screws. The stock just chew up the stock chassi ears.
-Upgraded all 4 shock spring retainers and rod ends to Tekno's. The stock always break. Tekno's don't. ( I also have a Tekno MT)
-RPM wing mounts and all arms. But they are a mixed bag. they still break. But have less slop for the most part.
I am also running a PL Brute body(hard white body) For the price not really worth it n my opinion. Not a pretty body at all. IMO. But it is strong and impacts transfer breakage to the body mounts. Depends how you bash I guess.


-

 

[Full Throttle R/C]

Welcome to the AF? I'm running 50/1m/30 with great results ?

 

[SrC]

Welcome to the AF? I'm running 50/1m/30 with great results ?

Yeah, those numbers look good. 1M center. I may go that direction. Im good with the 60K/F and 20K/R. I like alot of steering.

 

[rctuner1000]

Great that you have experience with the V3. You are way ahead of most Arrma Newbs. I swapped out the Servo mount on my Kraton with a HR one. But on my Noto. I didn't. The Stock servo mount was upgraded during V3 if I am correct. And my Noto. steering is fine without any upgrade. I have never bent my ackerman plate. Other have. I never changed it out. Don't need to. IMO. until it fails if it even does. A new servo may be on your list. But run the stock till it goes. My Noto still has the stock one ironically. But it is weak and slow IMO. I have the dusty motors cover. Its ok. Nothing to write home about considering its price. I use it rarely now. I put the tall side guards from the Noto on my Kraton so it doesn't get dirty inside now. The servo saver on the V4 is not adjustable. I changed that over to the V3 version instead. because it is adjustable. But I use a good amount of Threadlocker on the SS hub assy before I tighten it up. I like my SS very snug and tight and use a FanModel 25KG servo. I tried a Savox 1210. I hated it. Especially considering the price I paid.

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Model-Wa...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B078WVXP4Y

I am sure others may chime in. I did some other mods and upgrades on my V4 Kraton.
-changedout the V4 radio to a Tactic V3 radio.
-put stainless springs inside of the F/R input gear cups to quiet the center drive shaft yokes.
- put AE 1000cst oil in front and rear shocks. Used the included front shock pistons in the rear. (smaller holes=more dampening at the rear)
-TBR front bumper and rear wheeliebar bumper.
-shimmed all 4 hub outer bearings with the tekno outer diff shims. ( got rid of a lot of wheel axel slop)
-custom mounted two 20mm fans to the stock BLX motor( one on each end) need a pic to understand how I did that.
-running 16T pinion. Best speed with fresh rubber sealed bearings got me 63 MPH.
-Went with the Red Kraton body over the blue one because it is faster.
-Running either Duratrax Truggy race wheels or the 6S BF tires. BF LP tires are forever on back order. I prefer smaller diameter wheels/tires. I set my Kraton more like a Track truggy for bashing. The Duratrax X-Con c2 tires are great.IMO.
-Upgraded to Avid Titanium droop screws. The stock just chew up the stock chassi ears.
-Upgraded all 4 shock spring retainers and rod ends to Tekno's. The stock always break. Tekno's don't. ( I also have a Tekno MT)
-RPM wing mounts and all arms. But they are a mixed bag. they still break. But have less slop for the most part.
I am also running a PL Brute body(hard white body) For the price not really worth it n my opinion. Not a pretty body at all. IMO. But it is strong and impacts transfer breakage to the body mounts. Depends how you bash I guess.


-

So I’ve heard about swapping for the tactic elsewhere, what is the issue with the spectrum?
Have you tried the Power HD LW-20MG 20Kg High Torque Digital Servo With Metal Gear? I had this in my v3 and it was outstanding, and It was only 20.00. Thanks for all the info, it will be very helpful.

 

[rctuner1000]

Welcome to the AF? I'm running 50/1m/30 with great results ?

Thank you!! I’ll keep that in mind

 

[SrC]

So I’ve heard about swapping for the tactic elsewhere, what is the issue with the spectrum?
Have you tried the Power HD LW-20MG 20Kg High Torque Digital Servo With Metal Gear? I had this in my v3 and it was outstanding, and It was only 20.00. Thanks for all the info, it will be very helpful. View attachment 61408

So I’ve heard about swapping for the tactic elsewhere, what is the issue with the spectrum?
Have you tried the Power HD LW-20MG 20Kg High Torque Digital Servo With Metal Gear? I had this in my v3 and it was outstanding, and It was only 20.00. Thanks for all the info, it will be very helpful. View attachment 61408

The Power HD brand and that particular servo seems to be popular. But I would only run 25Kg+ servos on my Kraton and Noto. 6S's at 6.v BEC.

The STX2 Tx/Rx appears to be very slow in response. Frame rates are so slow, that some didn't like the feel. It doesn't feel connected. I did not like it with my V4 after only 10 min. I stopped using it. First timers may not notice it. Until you have an Older Tactic equipped rig or a higher end radio to compare it with, you may not notice. The STX2 should not have been used with any of the 1/8 scale line up. IMO. The 3 position TH Lim. switch is glitchy and is best left in the 100% position. Some don't mind the rather large hard plastic wheel. But this is a $13.00 radio. Literally only worth that much. Check Jenny's for an Older Tactic TTX300. Or upgrade to something else. But try that STX2 first to see what you think.

 

[Rott]

I am new to the forum, and the Kraton. I have owned the Kraton 6s V4 for about 2 months now, with limited run time, but tonight I tore down the center diff, replaced it with 200k silicone oil, and checked the shimming. I did replace the factory shims with ones from the Mugen kit, but the only location I felt any play was with the out drive (not sure if I have terminology correct). When I tried to add one extra shim, it was too tight...so I thought the factory shimmed it pretty well. I only switched out to the ones from the Mugen kit because I had it open anyway, and felt it would be a good time to do it. I also swapped out every bearing I ran across to the Fast Eddy ones.

 

[Full Throttle R/C]

I am new to the forum, and the Kraton. I have owned the Kraton 6s V4 for about 2 months now, with limited run time, but tonight I tore down the center diff, replaced it with 200k silicone oil, and checked the shimming. I did replace the factory shims with ones from the Mugen kit, but the only location I felt any play was with the out drive (not sure if I have terminology correct). When I tried to add one extra shim, it was too tight...so I thought the factory shimmed it pretty well. I only switched out to the ones from the Mugen kit because I had it open anyway, and felt it would be a good time to do it. I also swapped out every bearing I ran across to the Fast Eddy ones.

Welcome to the AF? and congrats on owning the Kraton! She's an awesome rig??

 

[rctuner1000]

So I’ve heard about swapping for the tactic elsewhere, what is the issue with the spectrum?
Have you tried the Power HD LW-20MG 20Kg High Torque Digital Servo With Metal Gear? I had this in my v3 and it was outstanding, and It was only 20.00. Thanks for all the info, it will be very helpful. View attachment 61408

How are the red and blue bodies any different?

 

[jondilly1974]

How are the red and blue bodies any different?

I believe the blue are coreless

 

[rctuner1000]

The Power HD brand and that particular servo seems to be popular. But I would only run 25Kg+ servos on my Kraton and Noto. 6S's at 6.v BEC.View attachment 61543
The STX2 Tx/Rx appears to be very slow in response. Frame rates are so slow, that some didn't like the feel. It doesn't feel connected. I did not like it with my V4 after only 10 min. I stopped using it. First timers may not notice it. Until you have an Older Tactic equipped rig or a higher end radio to compare it with, you may not notice. The STX2 should not have been used with any of the 1/8 scale line up. IMO. The 3 position TH Lim. switch is glitchy and is best left in the 100% position. Some don't mind the rather large hard plastic wheel. But this is a $13.00 radio. Literally only worth that much. Check Jenny's for an Older Tactic TTX300. Or upgrade to something else. But try that STX2 first to see what you think.

Well that sucks, I wonder why the would change it. I’ll look into a tactic or a dx2e with sr4210. I’ve been into rc for many many years, I’ve always been more into building the kits for racing, but bashing is a whole lot of fun! I’ve owned many revos and they don’t compare to the kraton imo. I have a page on fb where I post pics of all the vehicles I’ve built and owned. Midwest surface rc. Its ajust for fun page.

I believe the blue are coreless

Jeez if feel pretty stupid at the moment, I Thought you were talking about the kraton bodies ?

 

[Hammer Down]

Well that sucks, I wonder why the would change it. I’ll look into a tactic or a dx2e with sr4210. I’ve been into rc for many many years, I’ve always been more into building the kits for racing, but bashing is a whole lot of fun! I’ve owned many revos and they don’t compare to the kraton imo. I have a page on fb where I post pics of all the vehicles I’ve built and owned. Midwest surface rc. Its ajust for fun page.

Jeez if feel pretty stupid at the moment, I Thought you were talking about the kraton bodies ?

The kraton bodies are different...
The blue one is faster! ???

 

[jkflow]

The blue one is faster but the red one jumps better! The green one beats them all. V3 baby!!

 

[Lride Chart]

Welcome to the forum. My view on shimming.

 

[SrC]

The kraton bodies are different...
The blue one is faster! ???

Vas and Rich Duper bash said the Red bodies are faster. I have both bodies now, and I can tell you that the red body is .0000008763 MPH faster for sure. Every time I bench race them, the Red body always wins. Every time.

 

[SrC]

Well that sucks, I wonder why the would change it. I’ll look into a tactic or a dx2e with sr4210. I’ve been into rc for many many years, I’ve always been more into building the kits for racing, but bashing is a whole lot of fun! I’ve owned many revos and they don’t compare to the kraton imo. I have a page on fb where I post pics of all the vehicles I’ve built and owned. Midwest surface rc. Its ajust for fun page.

Jeez if feel pretty stupid at the moment, I Thought you were talking about the kraton bodies ?

I always make reference about Red bodies being faster. Its a joke.

 

[mariog7]

Hey, guys. RC veteran of 30 years here, but newbie to Arrma. Just got my v4 Kraton and took it for my first spin and love it! Totally agreed that 100k is too light in the center diff and I’m going to order some thinker fluid. But back to the main topic here - while I have it apart, does the v4 need to be shimmed any further? Sorry but all the various threads are confusing. And if so, what shims are recommended? Thanks!