Senton Brushless upgrade

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The 85a esc is fine i put 4 3s 80c 6000mah batteries in it over the last 2 days and it's had more than enough power the entire time. Thanks for your opinion though, I was just sharing what happened in my own personal experience
+1
85amp is TOO small. Yes. LHS has no clue.:rolleyes: That is why. They are spending/taking your $$ unwisely. Or just slamming you with what they have in stock perhaps?? You will end up disappointed and buying twice over. Be careful.
Need a 100amp minimum, at the very least. 120amp ideal for 3s running.

@Kla912000 is 100% dead on correct. I would follow his lead on this. Common knowledge here. If you look closely at the 85 amp specs, it is just not the correct ESC. Albeit a cheaper alternative. Sure it may work for you. For while. Just not the correct match for that rig. Arrma specs 100amp for a reason on this 4x4 chassis platform. No getting a round this fact. Being a 4x4 drivetrain and heavier than average for most 1/10 scale rigs. Requires much torque. 85 amps would not suffice efficiently enough.
Figure only running 2s with that 85amp esc. No more. 3s is pushing it IMHO.
My spin.:cool:
Copy that, well now I know, thanks for sharing your knowledge fellas, apparently my mistake for trusting my local rc shop owner.
 
All the ESCz mentioned are made in the MASSIVE Shenzhen Ltd., CO. Plant in Shenzhen China, the Flux, the spektrum, the Hobbywing, and even a Surpass roll off the same belt at the end of rhe day. I have been there 3 times, its huge. Anyway, lets just say they are all HobbyWings. The cheaper made "RTR" version of the WP-SC8 to be exact, which is available for purchase separately in the U.S.A as an 80a and 150a version, even though there is a 100a version available for purchase in other countries it is territorially restricted here as it is sold primarily as a "branded O.E.M." version as is the case with the BLX & Spektrum 100a ESCz.
The RETAIL version of the WP-SC8 has Bluetooth and many many more parameter settings than these RTR or OEM models, it also has a lower resistance and higher quality FETS and Capacitors.



Ok, that said, the 80a RTR (again, not retail) model sold by Surpass as the "KK" model, or from Hobbywing as the "WP-SC8 80a" is in fact recommend to be used in 1/10 4×4 monster trucks on 3s with a KV rating of <4000KV. Our RC Group has 3 Sentons with a Surpass KK 80a, Hobbywing WP-SC8 80a, and a Spektrum 80a esc. Two run 3300kv Spektrum 3652 motors and the Surpass KK is running an oldschool HPI Flux 4000KV - 3655 motor. All 3 run on 3s and all three for over a year or two now. No issues. Unless you want to include that their braking ability is lacking. Now we know how to gear correct using the metal geared diffrential v.3 of the Mega Senton having an I.G.R of 2.83.

So the 80a is right on the edge of the amp rating needed for these trucks and the motors described, a 150a ESC is Overkill and the manual describes it as being for 1/8 vehicles, you would have no more speed or take off but braking would be violently terrific! The 100a lands right where it should , 100a is 100% perfect for the Arrma Senton.



Just so that those that don't know WILL know, an amp rating is NOT WHAT DECIDES if an ESC can handle a certain KV motor, NO, BAD THINKING, STOP THE MISinformation, NOW!!!!!



The amp rating tells you what SIZE MOTOR and what WEIGHT vehicle an ESC can handle, NOT the KV it can handle!

This is why top quality ESCs like Castle state a "Vehicle Weight" for their ESCs and NO KV Rating WHATSOEVER!

Now you wanna ask "well why do we have KV ratings, and what does this tell us about the ESC?" don't you, go on... I will wait... Do do doo, dooby do0by doooooo.

Ok, brushless motors need to have power sent to the motor in phases or pulses, unlike brushed motors where you can skip the esc and go straight battery if u like (but i wouldn't recommend it because i set a sweet Kyosho SPA 240ws modified on fire when one of my Optimas got stuck in tall grass, sad story) but you can't do that with brushless as each phase must receive it's power at exactly the correct time. This is controlled by a controller or PROCESSOR. The faster the brushless motor spins the more pulses must be sent, and sent faster!

So the higher the KV (lower the turns) the faster the pulses must be! And the ONLY way to get this to happen is with a higher CLOCKED processor!

Just like any gaming PC , the heavier the graphics the faster your CPU & VPU must be. In the case of our high KV motor their will be MORE information (in the manner of a higher number of pulses per second) and faster processing (in the manner of pulses sent per phase being sent quicker as the motor revs UP) so you NEED an ESC with a great processor to have an ESC with great KV abilities!

That said the processor is more expensive than the Power amplifier FETS its controlling so a good ESC of the same AMP RATING as a cheaper ESC costs more because it comes with a better processor.

So do like experienced Racers do, we weigh our cars not just for increased potential speed, there is enough power in lipo and B.L. motors that this is not as important (unless in stock motor classes), but to know what rating in AMPs we need for our cars and how big in mAh we need our lipos to be . We use motor analyzers or at least a good multimeter to see our motor's amp draw, and choose a high quality ESC to use lower AMPs so our battery can have power remaining at the end of a race!!!! They guy with a 160a pro esc and a motor that isnt amp draw tuned isnt going to win just because he or she got a big ole ESC and expensive motor factory setup! That person may be using more amps from their lipo in just making HEAT versus actual power to the motor
(-_•)

But for bashing look for a great quality ESC and a good quality motor and you will do fine. Just exactly like Car Audio. A speaker IS a motor and an amp IS your esc. If you get a High Quality 100 watt U S. Amps brand "cheater" amp and put it on midgrade subwoofers you will crush one of those 1000watt class D no name brand amps with the most expensive subwoofers of the same size!
 
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