Connecting two ESC’s to a SR315 RX ?

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ActionJackson

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Good morning guys,

Not an Arrma but… I’m building a speed run TFL zonda RC boat and need to figure how to connect two HobbyWing SeaKing 180a ESC’s to a SR315 receiver.

Please help, thanks!
 
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Need a Y adapter. Both ESC's will be powered by the Lipos . But one will be the Slave and one the Master.
You need to separately Program Each ESC identically Parameter wise. You probably know this already?
It is most common to drop one of the BEC power wires from one of the ESC's. Now that is the slave ESC. Both ESC's end up using the single Throttle channel Port. (#2 to Burn)

 
You pretty much always need a Y-Splitter no matter how you slice it.
Just that when it comes to the ESC BEC power there are a few ways to do it.
Need one ESC as the Master, one as the slave in most cases. Best way to approach it.
 
Need a Y adapter. Both ESC's will be powered by the Lipos . But one will be the Slave and one the Master.
You need to separately Program Each ESC identically Parameter wise. You probably know this already?
It is most common to drop one of the BEC power wires from one of the ESC's. Now that is the slave ESC. Both ESC's end up using the single Throttle channel Port. (#2 to Burn)

Great video explains all I need to know!

Thanks guys!
 
As stated above, because of both ESC’s running through a splitter to channel 2, it’s critical that only one ESC (the Primary) delivers BEC power to the receiver. That is why the red wire in the secondary ESC must not go into the Y-cable. If there are multiple ESC BEC power inputs to the receiver it, and your servo, can get fried. The diagram also had the ground terminated but I don’t know if this is necessary or not. I thought it was necessary to have the signal wire function properly, but I could be mistaken. Please confirm.
Also, I’m trying to be neither political nor Karen-ish, but can we move away from the terminology describing multiple ESC’s as Master and Slave? I know some people chuckle about this, even in their videos (Raz) but I find it really distasteful and unnecessary. Let’s assume more accurate terminology that describes them as Primary and Secondary, which doesn’t spark some really negative associations. This does matter. Harbor whichever views you choose (First Amendment right, I’d die for it) but let’s leave the more offensive ones for the other forums that those inclined might choose to frequent. And no, I’m not calling out @SrC because he’s merely using the terminology that has been accepted for so long, and it’s unfortunately the only way that most refer to the process of multiple motor setups. I‘ve done the same, and I cringe whenever I do. Sorry for the rant. Back to your regularly scheduled programming…
 
As stated above, because of both ESC’s running through a splitter to channel 2, it’s critical that only one ESC (the Primary) delivers BEC power to the receiver. That is why the red wire in the secondary ESC must not go into the Y-cable. If there are multiple ESC BEC power inputs to the receiver it, and your servo, can get fried. The diagram also had the ground terminated but I don’t know if this is necessary or not. I thought it was necessary to have the signal wire function properly, but I could be mistaken. Please confirm.
Also, I’m trying to be neither political nor Karen-ish, but can we move away from the terminology describing multiple ESC’s as Master and Slave? I know some people chuckle about this, even in their videos (Raz) but I find it really distasteful and unnecessary. Let’s assume more accurate terminology that describes them as Primary and Secondary, which doesn’t spark some really negative associations. This does matter. Harbor whichever views you choose (First Amendment right, I’d die for it) but let’s leave the more offensive ones for the other forums that those inclined might choose to frequent. And no, I’m not calling out @SrC because he’s merely using the terminology that has been accepted for so long, and it’s unfortunately the only way that most refer to the process of multiple motor setups. I‘ve done the same, and I cringe whenever I do. Sorry for the rant. Back to your regularly scheduled programming…
I have the same boat & esc setup only need to cut the red power wire from the secondary ESC ( make sure you put heat shrink over the cut ends ) it's up to you which ESC is your primary. I have put two little stickers inside the hull too remind me which one to switch on first
 
I have the same boat & esc setup only need to cut the red power wire from the secondary ESC ( make sure you put heat shrink over the cut ends ) it's up to you which ESC is your primary. I have put two little stickers inside the hull too remind me which one to switch on first
You can also remove the red wire by releasing the clips in the connector with a tiny pick. Then you don’t have to cut it. So you left the ground wire connected?
 
As stated above, because of both ESC’s running through a splitter to channel 2, it’s critical that only one ESC (the Primary) delivers BEC power to the receiver. That is why the red wire in the secondary ESC must not go into the Y-cable. If there are multiple ESC BEC power inputs to the receiver it, and your servo, can get fried. The diagram also had the ground terminated but I don’t know if this is necessary or not. I thought it was necessary to have the signal wire function properly, but I could be mistaken. Please confirm.
Also, I’m trying to be neither political nor Karen-ish, but can we move away from the terminology describing multiple ESC’s as Master and Slave? I know some people chuckle about this, even in their videos (Raz) but I find it really distasteful and unnecessary. Let’s assume more accurate terminology that describes them as Primary and Secondary, which doesn’t spark some really negative associations. This does matter. Harbor whichever views you choose (First Amendment right, I’d die for it) but let’s leave the more offensive ones for the other forums that those inclined might choose to frequent. And no, I’m not calling out @SrC because he’s merely using the terminology that has been accepted for so long, and it’s unfortunately the only way that most refer to the process of multiple motor setups. I‘ve done the same, and I cringe whenever I do. Sorry for the rant. Back to your regularly scheduled programming…
Man even when I was a young kid learning about automotive stuff, I found it strange that those terms were used for like clutch cylinders but that’s just what they were called.

I like using primary and secondary. Gonna use that from now on.
 
Also, I’m trying to be neither political nor Karen-ish, but can we move away from the terminology describing multiple ESC’s as Master and Slave? I know some people chuckle about this, even in their videos (Raz) but I find it really distasteful and unnecessary. Let’s assume more accurate terminology that describes them as Primary and Secondary, which doesn’t spark some really negative associations. This does matter. Harbor whichever views you choose (First Amendment right, I’d die for it) but let’s leave the more offensive ones for the other forums that those inclined might choose to frequent. And no, I’m not calling out @SrC because he’s merely using the terminology that has been accepted for so long, and it’s unfortunately the only way that most refer to the process of multiple motor setups. I‘ve done the same, and I cringe whenever I do. Sorry for the rant. Back to your regularly scheduled programming…
Im used to using the term slave and master from years in computer repair and upgrades, because that is how HDD's (hard drives) especially were labeled if your PC had more than one. Some SATA drives still label them that way, oddly, even though, now, BIOS always sets which is which, and you don't need jumpers, like you used to.
 
You can also remove the red wire by releasing the clips in the connector with a tiny pick. Then you don’t have to cut it. So you left the ground wire connected?
Also, try to waterproof your receiver the best you can. remove the case and use some conformal coating and a water-tight receiver box . the zonda hatch is not the best a keeping water out. don't ask how i found out but it ended up with gel-coat repairs and two new props
 
Also, try to waterproof your receiver the best you can. remove the case and use some conformal coating and a water-tight receiver box . the zonda hatch is not the best a keeping water out. don't ask how i found out but it ended up with gel-coat repairs and two new props
I’ve got an extra 6s Arrma receiver I’m planning to rig up.

Do you use tape to help keep the hatch on and sealed up? If so, what do you use?
 
I’ve got an extra 6s Arrma receiver I’m planning to rig up.

Do you use tape to help keep the hatch on and sealed up? If so, what do you use?
I have just modified the hatch with some foam sealing tape and some thumb screws . haven't had time to test it yet . Was using hockey tape before and if my hatch mod doesn't work I will go back to hockey tape.

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You can also remove the red wire by releasing the clips in the connector with a tiny pick. Then you don’t have to cut it. So you left the ground wire connected?
+1
Best way.
 
I have just modified the hatch with some foam sealing tape and some thumb screws . haven't had time to test it yet . Was using hockey tape before and if my hatch mod doesn't work I will go back to hockey tape.

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Nice rig man!

Where does your boat pick up the cooling water? Under hull? If so did it come that way or did you install pickups? Mine is in the mail and has a single pickup on the rudder which worries me due to needing to cool 2x ESC’s and motors.
 
Nice rig man!

Where does your boat pick up the cooling water? Under hull? If so did it come that way or did you install pickups? Mine is in the mail and has a single pickup on the rudder which worries me due to needing to cool 2x ESC’s and motors.
Mine is the 1122 Which is slightly smaller then the 1133 it picks up the water from the rudder. I have fitted the RCBB twin cooling rudder with bigger cooling lines .
 
Good call going with two line intake rudder, I may have to do the same.
I’ll watch temps after first running it on twin 3s packs, then 4s packs because I’d hate to fry something going full 6s out of the box!
 
Nice rig man!

Where does your boat pick up the cooling water? Under hull? If so did it come that way or did you install pickups? Mine is in the mail and has a single pickup on the rudder which worries me due to needing to cool 2x ESC’s and motors.
I would add a second water pickup. Anywhere on the hull. Boats run hot being sealed up.
 
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