Felony Felony Sloppy suspension tolerances, anyone else notice this?

[NYFelony]

I literally ran my Felony 8 times and zero crashes. I notice all the ball joints have so much play in them on the turnbuckles, hubs etc there is so much wiggle and movement,

i never noticed this on some of my larger scale cars such as the many HPI Bajas and FG gas cars Which are twice as heavy and always abused and wrecked,

even growing up in the 80s all my Kyosho cars had very tight tolerances.

is this just the nature and quality from Arrma? It seems the screws are too small for the ball ends for an exact transition fit. I grew up in a machine shop my entire life and tolerances are a peeve of mine on anything mechanical.

even the funky noise from the pinion and spur just seem out of tolerance when you roll it on the floor. I have a few more expensive Losi models and they appear to be better in regards to tolerances.

any opinions from you guys?

im just going to drive it until the wheel fall off lol

 

[parcou]

I literally ran my Felony 8 times and zero crashes. I notice all the ball joints have so much play in them on the turnbuckles, hubs etc there is so much wiggle and movement,

i never noticed this on some of my larger scale cars such as the many HPI Bajas and FG gas cars Which are twice as heavy and always abused and wrecked,

even growing up in the 80s all my Kyosho cars had very tight tolerances.

is this just the nature and quality from Arrma? It seems the screws are too small for the ball ends for an exact transition fit. I grew up in a machine shop my entire life and tolerances are a peeve of mine on anything mechanical.

even the funky noise from the pinion and spur just seem out of tolerance when you roll it on the floor. I have a few more expensive Losi models and they appear to be better in regards to tolerances.

any opinions from you guys?

im just going to drive it until the wheel fall off lol

Having owned a Felony (sold) still have the Infraction and Kraton all 6S.... I feel they all need to be checked first. They are produced on an assembly line so errors are backed in, naturally.

Yes... I have noticed what you have shared but I have addressed all those for a tight rig for all 3. Shims that have been shared here we've used to put between the wheel hex to address wheel slop. Adjustment of the carrier balls and or changing to a better M2C ball joint for the carriers. Made adjustments to add more shims to the top hing pins for the top arms to remove the rocking slop. Lastly adjust the wheels where they are flat on the ground and the angels are correct. Oh, adjust your droop screws correctly and shock colors with a little rake in the front.

Maybe more than people are willing to do but afterwards it is a tight rig with great suspension. Yes, I would say out the box they need attention to dial it in.

Bash on and best of luck!

 

[TL01magic]

I literally ran my Felony 8 times and zero crashes. I notice all the ball joints have so much play in them on the turnbuckles, hubs etc there is so much wiggle and movement,

i never noticed this on some of my larger scale cars such as the many HPI Bajas and FG gas cars Which are twice as heavy and always abused and wrecked,

even growing up in the 80s all my Kyosho cars had very tight tolerances.

is this just the nature and quality from Arrma? It seems the screws are too small for the ball ends for an exact transition fit. I grew up in a machine shop my entire life and tolerances are a peeve of mine on anything mechanical.

even the funky noise from the pinion and spur just seem out of tolerance when you roll it on the floor. I have a few more expensive Losi models and they appear to be better in regards to tolerances.

any opinions from you guys?

im just going to drive it until the wheel fall off lol

I would agree and only have a very short time running arrma. have been on and off hobby over decades. recently got back in and have gone with arrma.

Arrma is BY FAR the best value of RC from my perspective / use.

of RC car brands I found Tamiya touring car chassis to be VERY GOOD, as well with Team Associated touring cars. even their tc3 was decent. yokomo I only had the MR4TC SSG from way back and it was very good quality as well, though closer to tc3.

had the losi ten-scte first release and excluding issue with losi not properly repositioning center diff from the nitro version (wore out rear ds too quickly) as well as too weak a motor mount, specifically locking mech and bearings supporting center diff. less those electric conversion issue on a version 1, it was a tight platform for bashing....then tekno release a VERY good sct more bashing / racing balanced compared to sct which was more racing balanced.

for traxxas ive only had the e-revo and wow that took allot ($) to make durable but once it was wow super fun and lots of runtime. VERY sloppy and handles like poop imo. lol


had an axial wraith kit version, VERY different plastic from what i was used to and seemed a step away from scale mechanically to scale visually with respect to design focus. even more so than traxxas.

imo arrma is a good version of traxxas. FAR better value, great for bashing around, tons of after market / parts support. I really like the design concept specifically around the battery type. 3s / 6s / 8s. and the part interchangeability.

For example, just got a lim and want it slow (comparatively) for parking lot bashing. with the spool I could not get it too a low enough gearing...so I swapped in my mojave 50t center diff and bingo! no need to spend 50$ for some limitless chassis specific center diff...any ol' 6s center diff will do; even the one from my off road sct! lol that means added value for "buying into" the arrma rc line. am sure VAST majority of "RC people" have multiple RC's and for different purposes.

but for quality with respect to slop....arrma is just not designed for that....just like mugens, koshyo tamiya awesome serpent ect aren't really designed nor hold up to bashing nearly as well as arrma...

that said, implicitly these style of joints are for being robust, not to reduce slop as much as possible. meaning should not be expecting it to be like an rc designed for racing a track rc......as opposed to 30 foot back flips onto concrete lol those tight tolorance RC's tweak for sure....simple crash / bump and car may need adjusting...not slop, but not robust either.

oh if by ball joints you mean mean pivot ball joint, those can and should by adjusted as needed. ball joints totally different...from my experience with bashing and in particular off road / dusty on road they just wear out with use.

edit to add, i agree with parcou regarding being able to remove slop from parts. for example with my mojave i shimmed up the steering arm bits that have bearings. took two shims on one side and one shim on the other. remove about half the slop...plenty in the ball joints but is expected imo for bashing in dirt / grit / dust etc.