General discussions - FAST RC boat

[ActionJackson]

I bit the bullet and decided to turn my Zippkits FE33 into a speedrunner.. This boat will do 70mph oval laps all day long in its current configuration, but for speedrunning I'm going to drop in a TP 4050 2400kv and a converted XLX2, and going to run it on an SRD 6200mah 6s pack with a Dasboata prop, not sure witch one yet.. I'm not sure what to do about the turnfin, I'll probably run with it on at first and once everything is dialed in then maybe take it off and run it.. Sam Hallstrom on youtube has done 121mph with one of these same boats, with a setup not too different from what mine will be, so I know these boats can do big numbers if setup well.. Here I'm just laying out locations for esc and the battery, I left the wood battery tray out of the boat so it has a huge compartment with room to move the battery fore and aft. I use the large white foam pieces in the boatstand (and other smaller pieces of foam) to keep the pack in place tightly instead of battery straps. I'm just getting started with this build but it should be fun

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Nice man!

I see you mention a ‘converted’ XLX2… was it a land version with a heat sink originally? If so how did you convert to run cooling tubes through it?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Nice man!

I see you mention a ‘converted’ XLX2… was it a land version with a heat sink originally? If so how did you convert to run cooling tubes through it?

https://stumpfabrication.com/collec.../products/castle-creations-xlx2-cooling-plate

 

[Notoriousone]

I have the 1817 prepped by Chris and I’m hoping for great speed with it for sure. The kite string through the sponsons is a great idea and I’ll explore how I could do it as these are solid 8mm boom rods, not tubes on this boat so I’d have to figure out a different way of getting the kite string through everything..
I’ve had the issue of the stock Z strut moving around since day 1, it’s incredibly annoying and it will probably be replaced soon, most likely with a Speedmaster setup like yours. I have to adjust and tighten the screws that hold the strut in after every run as the whole assembly moves during the run and causes strange handling issues. I’ll change the connectors on the Xlx2 from s series to a single connector also to accommodate the SRD 6200 pack. As you can see there’s tons of room for the battery, what’s a good starting point for the CG? I’ve heard for riggers doing speedruns you want the pack as far back as you can get it, but this seems a little strange considering I’ve always had weight more forward for my speedrun Cats.. but outriggers are different of course so maybe that’s the correct place? I’m talking for speeds over 110mph, not just fast ovals.
Getting the motor and battery wires, and water lines to fit under the canopy required some tight packaging but they all fit in now. I’m using a different canopy than stock, this was made years ago specifically for this boat and is both wider and longer than the stock canopy so has room for everything but just barely

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I have the 1817 prepped by Chris and I’m hoping for great speed with it for sure. The kite string through the sponsons is a great idea and I’ll explore how I could do it as these are solid 8mm boom rods, not tubes on this boat so I’d have to figure out a different way of getting the kite string through everything..
I’ve had the issue of the stock Z strut moving around since day 1, it’s incredibly annoying and it will probably be replaced soon, most likely with a Speedmaster setup like yours. I have to adjust and tighten the screws that hold the strut in after every run as the whole assembly moves during the run and causes strange handling issues. I’ll change the connectors on the Xlx2 from s series to a single connector also to accommodate the SRD 6200 pack. As you can see there’s tons of room for the battery, what’s a good starting point for the CG? I’ve heard for riggers doing speedruns you want the pack as far back as you can get it, but this seems a little strange considering I’ve always had weight more forward for my speedrun Cats.. but outriggers are different of course so maybe that’s the correct place? I’m talking for speeds over 110mph, not just fast ovals.
Getting the motor and battery wires, and water lines to fit under the canopy required some tight packaging but they all fit in now. I’m using a different canopy than stock, this was made years ago specifically for this boat and is both wider and longer than the stock canopy so has room for everything but just barely

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I have only been 88 mph so far so I don't know that I can give advice on that but have asked the same question to others. I was told it does not seem to matter. You want the front to glide above the water so having weight at the rear seems to be fine with how much lift these props have.
My runs were with the onyx 8,000 mAh 4s pack which is pretty heavy basically all the way back in the battery area. I have only used the 1817 so far and it got up on plane quickly.... faster than my mono boat does.

 

[ActionJackson]

https://stumpfabrication.com/collec.../products/castle-creations-xlx2-cooling-plate

Haha, cool!!!

 

[jkflow]

Done the stump conversion as well, priro Castle having theirs, works like a charm.

OSE is having a give-away, read the rules.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.co...claus-Giveaway-150-OSE-gift-certificate/page2

 

[BIG TUNA]

Thanks for the help, guys. I ended up finding the barbs at Oxendine Marine. I did some work on the boat yesterday and it is almost water ready. I got the electronics soldered up, binded the receiver, and ran the cooling lines. I am going to install another two water pickups for better cooling. I wish I would have thought to pick up a servo arm at the time of ordering the barbs, I had to place another order Once I had everything installed, I tried to fit my 6s 5000 mah batteries and no luck at all! It looks like I am going to have to run 2 3s lipos on each side. Question, the boat came with grease nipple fittings on the flex shafts. Do I need to use those if I remove and regrease the flex shafts after every run?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thanks for the help, guys. I ended up finding the barbs at Oxendine Marine. I did some work on the boat yesterday and it is almost water ready. I got the electronics soldered up, binded the receiver, and ran the cooling lines. I am going to install another two water pickups for better cooling. I wish I would have thought to pick up a servo arm at the time of ordering the barbs, I had to place another order Once I had everything installed, I tried to fit my 6s 5000 mah batteries and no luck at all! It looks like I am going to have to run 2 3s lipos on each side. Question, the boat came with grease nipple fittings on the flex shafts. Do I need to use those if I remove and regrease the flex shafts after every run?

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Looks great!
No the grease fitting is not needed but you may want to keep it there unless you have something to plug the hole.

 

[Notoriousone]

Nice soldering job, I like the 90 degree angle motor wires on the Hydras.. The nipples on the stuffing tubes aren’t necessary, but can be handy for keeping shafts greased in between runs at the lake without having to remove them.. A few of my boats have these nipples. I use a syringe with a very small tip that I fill with grease, and apply to the drive shaft through the nipple in between runs. This is done efficiently by turning the boat on, advancing the throttle trim forward so the shaft turns at low rpm, then apply grease through the nipple. You will hear the sound the shaft makes in the stuffing tube change and become smoother as it picks up grease. I always grease the shaft before it goes in the boat the first time, so I only do this if I’m running a boat more than once at the lake

 

[LibertyMKiii]

39" SD4 Seaducer arrived today

 

[ActionJackson]

Best way to secure the lid on my carbon/Kevlar Zonda?

I’ve been taping it so far but now that it’s getting into the 80+mph speeds I’m growing concerned it’s going to flip and pop it’s top…

Hoping to keep the sleek look and not have large lugs sticking out of the top so looking for secure & sleek recommendations guys, thanks!

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Best way to secure the lid on my carbon/Kevlar Zonda?

I’ve been taping it so far but now that it’s getting into the 80+mph speeds I’m growing concerned it’s going to flip and pop it’s top…

Hoping to keep the sleek look and not have large lugs sticking out of the top so looking for secure & sleek recommendations guys, thanks!

I blew off the regular hatch tape with my rigger during a 80+ mph crash.
I swapped to duct tape. It stays but it can pull your paint off if it is not adhered well to the hull.

On gelcoat boats that shouldn't be an issue.

 

[jkflow]

Normal tape works just fine, just don't use it to cover the seems, 2-3 more across the middle area and its solid.

 

[Notoriousone]

Search for Hockey tape on Amazon. It looks the same as hatch tape but its stronger. I have used it many times with no issues. I have had two big 100mph flips with it (one with the Zonda, one with the Animal cat) and the hatch did not come off in either case. I don't skimp on the tape when sealing and securing the hatch because I don't use hatch locks, the tape is the only thing holding the hatch on so it has to be strong

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Small update. I did some work on this Zip Kits R4 rigger. I bought it off an experienced RC boat guy and really shocked how bad the bottom of the boat was. If he has unhappy with how it ran I know why. It took lots of sanding to get the ride surfaces flat and sharp. There was tons of paint making the trailing edges rounded. All bad stuff for running well. Also the boom tube holders were rusted and one was cracked. Got those replaced and its ready to hit the water now.

Hoping for a low wind day around Christmas to run the 2 riggers. I made a simple hatch cover for the R4 this week. A simple piece of basswood with sanded edges to give it a nice profile. Then covered it in epoxy so I can tape it and not have the wood get damaged.

 

[Notoriousone]

Here’s a hull that I just got.. A 36” “Decepticon” hull from Vietnam, made by MTC boat. I’m not sure if these are available in the US normally. It’s fiberglass with a full CF inlay and hardware installed. The transom has a CF plate reinforcing it. It has quad water pickups and exits so each motor and ESC gets a dedicated water inlet and outlet. I’m going to put in two 4082 2000kv motors, and 200amp esc’s. A video clip of one of these same hulls with that motor and ESC combo is attached, they run amazingly well with the wide stance and stepped sides, very similar to a TFL Cheetah but better performance wise I’d say. The boat in the video isn’t mine, but the same hull

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Here’s a hull that I just got.. A 36” “Decepticon” hull from Vietnam, made by MTC boat. I’m not sure if these are available in the US normally. It’s fiberglass with a full CF inlay and hardware installed. The transom has a CF plate reinforcing it. It has quad water pickups and exits so each motor and ESC gets a dedicated water inlet and outlet. I’m going to put in two 4082 2000kv motors, and 200amp esc’s. A video clip of one of these same hulls with that motor and ESC combo is attached, they run amazingly well with the wide stance and stepped sides, very similar to a TFL Cheetah but better performance wise I’d say. The boat in the video isn’t mine, but the same hull

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Looks really nice.
I see they copied the speed master strut design.

 

[BIG TUNA]

Here’s a hull that I just got.. A 36” “Decepticon” hull from Vietnam, made by MTC boat. I’m not sure if these are available in the US normally. It’s fiberglass with a full CF inlay and hardware installed. The transom has a CF plate reinforcing it. It has quad water pickups and exits so each motor and ESC gets a dedicated water inlet and outlet. I’m going to put in two 4082 2000kv motors, and 200amp esc’s. A video clip of one of these same hulls with that motor and ESC combo is attached, they run amazingly well with the wide stance and stepped sides, very similar to a TFL Cheetah but better performance wise I’d say. The boat in the video isn’t mine, but the same hull

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That looks better than the TFL Cheeta. Where did you purchase it? It looks very well built. I got through most the video and relised that's where I run my boats, Handson dam. It really turns well.

 

[ActionJackson]

Damn that thing is very stable through the turns! Looks like you're able to turn and nearly hold full throttle... my zonda definitely won't do that haha!

 

[Notoriousone]

Looks really nice.
I see they copied the speed master strut design.

Yup it looks like an exact copy of the speed master strut, hopefully it will work as well

That looks better than the TFL Cheeta. Where did you purchase it? It looks very well built. I got through most the video and relised that's where I run my boats, Handson dam. It really turns well.

When do you run at Hansen damn? Let’s meet up and run some boats.. The hull is made by MTC in Vietnam, one of my friends had this one and I bought it from him. I don’t think you can buy these in the US

Damn that thing is very stable through the turns! Looks like you're able to turn and nearly hold full throttle... my zonda definitely won't do that haha!

Yup you can take turns at full throttle or very close to it.. This is the most stable FE hull I’ve ever driven