Granite Granite Voltage Problems (Burning smell, ect)

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Silicon Valley
Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 3s
  2. Voltage
My Granite Voltage only drives FOWARD and not Reverse, and a Burning Smell is coming from the ESC. I have some ideas about what to do and I would like some help pls.
 
I was thinking the ESC was damaged somehow because it smelled burnt and got really hot only after driving it for 1 minute. What are some options for a new ESC for the Granite Voltage other than a new stock one?
 
https://www.amazon.com/SoloGood-Hob...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You can also find a combo with motor fairly inexpensive.
Consider mounting a small fan onto the HS and plug it into your reciever if possible, or find a an ESC that has a fan already. 80am-120 amp esc's usually do.
If you change out the motor to a brushed Ball Bearing raced type vs. stock brass bushing type, they tend to run cooler also. Cooler motors usually mean cooler ESC's in Brushed motor setups.
 
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https://www.amazon.com/SoloGood-Hob...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You can also find a combo with motor fairly inexpensive.
Consider mounting a small fan onto the HS and plug it into your reciever if possible, or find a an ESC that has a fan already. 80am-120 amp esc's usually do.
If you change out the motor to a brushed Ball Bearing raced type vs. stock brass bushing type, they tend to run cooler also. Cooler motors usually mean cooler ESC's in Brushed motor setups.
hi @SrC I’m having the same issue. I didn’t change the jumper on the ESC to LiPo when I changed the battery 🤦‍♂️ The link above doesn’t work. So is there anything other than the stock ESC ($50) that you’d recommend or do I just have to fork out $50 and replace with that exact part? Thanks!
 
My Granite Voltage only drives FOWARD and not Reverse, and a Burning Smell is coming from the ESC. I have some ideas about what to do and I would like some help pls.
Mine did the same thing after 1 week. DO NOT try to use it without reverse, the ESC is fried. Mine did the same thing so I continued using forward and it took off out of control full speed and I had to run it into a bush to get it stopped. Not safe. Not even the switch would shut if off. Had to unplug the battery. I made a warranty claim in NOV and I am still waiting for the replacement to be sent since the esc is backordered. Terrible experience and had to buy another truck since it was a gift. Out of curiosity were you using a LIPO or the standard NIMH pack?
hi @SrC I’m having the same issue. I didn’t change the jumper on the ESC to LiPo when I changed the battery 🤦‍♂️ The link above doesn’t work. So is there anything other than the stock ESC ($50) that you’d recommend or do I just have to fork out $50 and replace with that exact part? Thanks!
The esc in the voltage is a receiver and speed control in one. IE in order to use the provided radio you must replace it with the specific factory esc. I upgraded to a hobbywing 1060 esc (aoround $20), but had to change the servo since the voltage is 5 wire and 3 wire is common, and luckily I had a different radio and receiver on hand. Not a problem since.
 
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My Granite Voltage only drives FOWARD and not Reverse, and a Burning Smell is coming from the ESC. I have some ideas about what to do and I would like some help pls.
What did you end up doing? Did you have to replace on the esc or the motor too?
 
Motor was fine, I had to replace the esc. Since stock esc is a 2 in 1 unit with the receiver, I had to change the radio system with a separate receiver and a stand alone esc. Since the stock servo is a 5 wire instead of the common 3 wire the servo with 25T spline had to b changed. It is an easy conversion. I had the replacements in my "stock" since I have been in the hobby for many years. There are many threads of the stock receiver failing and also the Lipo cutoff is set very high on the stock ESC cutting power prematurely when using an upgraded Lipo battery. I used a 1060 60 amp esc that runs around $20 and they are very reliable, never had a problem with them. The truck is built like a tank, but the electronics used are the weak point. IMO it is worth upgrading, Since the upgrade the truck has run perfect with longer runtimes and has taken a beating from my grandchild.
 
Motor was fine, I had to replace the esc. Since stock esc is a 2 in 1 unit with the receiver, I had to change the radio system with a separate receiver and a stand alone esc. Since the stock servo is a 5 wire instead of the common 3 wire the servo with 25T spline had to b changed. It is an easy conversion. I had the replacements in my "stock" since I have been in the hobby for many years. There are many threads of the stock receiver failing and also the Lipo cutoff is set very high on the stock ESC cutting power prematurely when using an upgraded Lipo battery. I used a 1060 60 amp esc that runs around $20 and they are very reliable, never had a problem with them. The truck is built like a tank, but the electronics used are the weak point. IMO it is worth upgrading, Since the upgrade the truck has run perfect with longer runtimes and has taken a beating from my grandchild.
Nice! Glad you had the stock! I’m a newbie. So no stock and no new remote / transmitter etc. so if I wanted to change the esc, I’d have to buy all new parts (esc, motor, servo, remote). So for now I just ordered a new replacement esc for the granite and hope that works out. The esc was the only thing smelling burnt due to my new spectrum Lipo. So hope the motor is ok. I am curious though if perhaps the spektrum Lipo got damaged due to not setting the esc on Lipo jumper setting? Anyway to find out? I guess a battery checking tool?
 
Nice! Glad you had the stock! I’m a newbie. So no stock and no new remote / transmitter etc. so if I wanted to change the esc, I’d have to buy all new parts (esc, motor, servo, remote). So for now I just ordered a new replacement esc for the granite and hope that works out. The esc was the only thing smelling burnt due to my new spectrum Lipo. So hope the motor is ok. I am curious though if perhaps the spektrum Lipo got damaged due to not setting the esc on Lipo jumper setting? Anyway to find out? I guess a battery checking tool?
Not changing your esc to the Lipo setting had nothing to do with the esc failure. The only thing that setting does is activate the Lipo shutoff in the esc so the battery doesn't drain too low. Nimh setting allows the battery to drain down until it slows. The Lipo setting prevents the Lipo going down beyond the point of no return and acts as a safety. If the truck is new submit a warranty claim on the esc, it wasn't your fault. I did but they have been backordered for over 2 months now, that was the main reason for my upgrade. You could put your battery on the charger, if it charges your good to go. If it drained too low it will no longer take a charge. I suggest you buy a battery checker/alarm since it will tell you the voltage in each cell. They are cheap, my last ones cost 12.99 for five of them.
 
Not changing your esc to the Lipo setting had nothing to do with the esc failure. The only thing that setting does is activate the Lipo shutoff in the esc so the battery doesn't drain too low. Nimh setting allows the battery to drain down until it slows. The Lipo setting prevents the Lipo going down beyond the point of no return and acts as a safety. If the truck is new submit a warranty claim on the esc, it wasn't your fault. I did but they have been backordered for over 2 months now, that was the main reason for my upgrade. You could put your battery on the charger, if it charges your good to go. If it drained too low it will no longer take a charge. I suggest you buy a battery checker/alarm since it will tell you the voltage in each cell. They are cheap, my last ones cost 12.99 for five of them.
Thank you for this advice!! 🙏
 
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