Outcast Help identify and upgrade

[Rcproponent]

The only differences between the V1 Outcast and the current version of the Outcast are as follows.
Larger receiver box.
Shocks with 4mm shafts and different shock mounts.
Sliding motor mount.
A couple shims in the diffs.
Slightly better stock chassis braces.
Bulkheads are little stronger.
Oh and the tower to tower brace.

I would just do some general maintenance on it like change the fluids in the diffs and shocks and change the bearings with the things I suggested above.

I didn’t mean to sound rude. I was just trying to save some headache. My apologies if you thought I was just brushing it off.

Larger receiver box.$10 give or take a few bucks.

Shocks with 4mm shafts and different shock mounts. Bout $75

Sliding motor mount.$20

A couple shims in the diffs. $5 shims

Slightly better stock chassis braces (Upgrade needed anyways v4 or v1)$50

Bulkheads are little stronger. $10 each (or $30 each for completed diffs inside)

tower to tower brace. $4

the biggest pain about all of this is the install time, and the shipping paid to get them to you. Most of the parts can be had from JRC. (Jenny’s rc)

now if you like wrenching on your rigs maybe this is the right path. I’ve seen it both ways, just outright replace and then sometimes repair Really up to you if you wanna put the wrench time in..

 

[BOOG]

I didn’t mean to sound rude. I was just trying to save some headache. My apologies if you thought I was just brushing it off.

Larger receiver box.$10 give or take a few bucks.

Shocks with 4mm shafts and different shock mounts. Bout $75

Sliding motor mount.$20

A couple shims in the diffs. $5 shims

Slightly better stock chassis braces (Upgrade needed anyways v4 or v1)$50

Bulkheads are little stronger. $10 each (or $30 each for completed diffs inside)

tower to tower brace. $4

the biggest pain about all of this is the install time, and the shipping paid to get them to you. Most of the parts can be had from JRC. (Jenny’s rc)

now if you like wrenching on your rigs maybe this is the right path. I’ve seen it both ways, just outright replace and then sometimes repair Really up to you if you wanna put the wrench time in..

I actually would like to do the work myself as its pretty much my alone time when I do things like that. $200 bucks is almost half of what a new 1 would cost me but ill also be saving about $350 from buying a new 1

 

[Notorious J]

I actually would like to do the work myself as its pretty much my alone time when I do things like that. $200 bucks is almost half of what a new 1 would cost me but ill also be saving about $350 from buying a new 1

I'm gonna agree with @Jamart85 on this one. Update as it breaks. The only parts that would be a first choice in any update are the aluminum chassis braces and t2t brace. If you clean this one up, open the difs to clean and replace fluids (maybe shim too) and give the bearings a thorough cleaning and lubrication, I'm sure you can get plenty of good runs the way it is. Also, since it's been sitting so long, open the motor and check the bearings while giving the internals a good cleaning with some electrical parts cleaner. The braces are only needed if you plan on sending it with big air, but they do offer a bit of insurance all around. In the end, how you drive it will determine how much you need to invest, but even the most over built & heavily upgraded trucks will have failures. Your driving style will determine what you need, so take the time to run, repair and upgrade as needed. Investing a ton of money upfront doesn't guarantee anything except an empty wallet.

 

[slick2500]

I didn’t mean to sound rude. I was just trying to save some headache. My apologies if you thought I was just brushing it off.

Larger receiver box.$10 give or take a few bucks.

Shocks with 4mm shafts and different shock mounts. Bout $75

Sliding motor mount.$20

A couple shims in the diffs. $5 shims

Slightly better stock chassis braces (Upgrade needed anyways v4 or v1)$50

Bulkheads are little stronger. $10 each (or $30 each for completed diffs inside)

tower to tower brace. $4

the biggest pain about all of this is the install time, and the shipping paid to get them to you. Most of the parts can be had from JRC. (Jenny’s rc)

now if you like wrenching on your rigs maybe this is the right path. I’ve seen it both ways, just outright replace and then sometimes repair Really up to you if you wanna put the wrench time in..

I wasn't trying to be rude either, not a lot of those things are really necessary.

 

[BOOG]

I'm gonna agree with @Jamart85 on this one. Update as it breaks. The only parts that would be a first choice in any update are the aluminum chassis braces and t2t brace. If you clean this one up, open the difs to clean and replace fluids (maybe shim too) and give the bearings a thorough cleaning and lubrication, I'm sure you can get plenty of good runs the way it is. Also, since it's been sitting so long, open the motor and check the bearings while giving the internals a good cleaning with some electrical parts cleaner. The braces are only needed if you plan on sending it with big air, but they do offer a bit of insurance all around. In the end, how you drive it will determine how much you need to invest, but even the most over built & heavily upgraded trucks will have failures. Your driving style will determine what you need, so take the time to run, repair and upgrade as needed. Investing a ton of money upfront doesn't guarantee anything except an empty wallet.

I had to rebuild the diff once and why it broke in the 1st place I don't know. I had bought some springs for it awhile back as the stock 1s were top soft and wanted stiffer springs but never did install them. Im going to take your advice and upgrade it as it breaks. Don't really have muvh funds to spare at the moment. I almost forgot to ask what should I look for when I check the bearings? Smell or corrosion? If the bearings are bad would I have to replace the whole motor? Any specific brand for the electrical cleaner you recommend?

I wasn't trying to be rude either, not a lot of those things are really necessary.

Will the Turnigy Graphene 6.0 6s battery work in my V1?

 

[slick2500]

I had to rebuild the diff once and why it broke in the 1st place I don't know. I had bought some springs for it awhile back as the stock 1s were top soft and wanted stiffer springs but never did install them. Im going to take your advice and upgrade it as it breaks. Don't really have muvh funds to spare at the moment. I almost forgot to ask what should I look for when I check the bearings? Smell or corrosion? If the bearings are bad would I have to replace the whole motor? Any specific brand for the electrical cleaner you recommend?

Will the Turnigy Graphene 6.0 6s battery work in my V1?

I think they might be a touch to big but double check the measurements.

 

[beefy nugz]

Obsolete? Thing will probably outbash the v5!

Spin the wheels. If everything rotates, including pinion. Throw 6s worth of lipo in there and rock out. upgrade as things break

 

[Notorious J]

I had to rebuild the diff once and why it broke in the 1st place I don't know. I had bought some springs for it awhile back as the stock 1s were top soft and wanted stiffer springs but never did install them. Im going to take your advice and upgrade it as it breaks. Don't really have muvh funds to spare at the moment. I almost forgot to ask what should I look for when I check the bearings? Smell or corrosion? If the bearings are bad would I have to replace the whole motor? Any specific brand for the electrical cleaner you recommend?

Will the Turnigy Graphene 6.0 6s battery work in my V1?

Any fast drying electrical parts cleaner is fine. Some even use brake cleaner, but I like the quick dry, no residue of the electrical one. Bearings should spin free with little to no binding. If ant seem worn too badly, replace with new sealed type ones. Sizes are available by checking part numbers on Arrmarc.com using the exploded view. Motor bearings are really important. I just recently bought two sets of sealed ceramic ones to change in a couple of older motors I have. Bought TRB 5x16x5mm hybrid ceramics off Amazon. If you clean and maintain bearings, they can last a long time. Its a lot of extra work though. Many just buy bulk of some of the more common sizes and replace as necessary. It all depends on your budget and wrenching abilities. Its a hobby. What you put in is what you get out. If light running in a dry, flat areas is all you plan to do, a little maintenance should take you a long way. Mods and upgrades are usually associated to much heavier and extreme forms of bashing. If your funds are low at the moment, so should be the level of how you push the truck.

 

[BOOG]

Obsolete? Thing will probably outbash the v5!

Spin the wheels. If everything rotates, including pinion. Throw 6s worth of lipo in there and rock out. upgrade as things break

I have a set of 3s onyx 5000mah lipos but I think they are done. Which brand do you suggest I go with and should I get another 2 3s lipos or a single 6s lipo?

Any fast drying electrical parts cleaner is fine. Some even use brake cleaner, but I like the quick dry, no residue of the electrical one. Bearings should spin free with little to no binding. If ant seem worn too badly, replace with new sealed type ones. Sizes are available by checking part numbers on Arrmarc.com using the exploded view. Motor bearings are really important. I just recently bought two sets of sealed ceramic ones to change in a couple of older motors I have. Bought TRB 5x16x5mm hybrid ceramics off Amazon. If you clean and maintain bearings, they can last a long time. Its a lot of extra work though. Many just buy bulk of some of the more common sizes and replace as necessary. It all depends on your budget and wrenching abilities. Its a hobby. What you put in is what you get out. If light running in a dry, flat areas is all you plan to do, a little maintenance should take you a long way. Mods and upgrades are usually associated to much heavier and extreme forms of bashing. If your funds are low at the moment, so should be the level of how you push the truck.

Alright ill head to home depot today to grab a can. Also how do yall clean the dirt and stuff out? Should I get an air compressor or just say skip it and let it be dirty?

 

[BOOG]

Obsolete? Thing will probably outbash the v5!

Spin the wheels. If everything rotates, including pinion. Throw 6s worth of lipo in there and rock out. upgrade as things break

You really think so?

 

[GRIFFINJ]

^^^this^^^ yes. Just throw batteries in an go. If ANYTHING, spend $20.00 and throw in all new bearings.

 

[slick2500]

You really think so?

Idk about out bash, but it would certainly hang in there. The weakest thing is going to be the shock shafts I'm pretty sure I bent 6 of them in the first 2 months of owning mine. Oh and keep an eye on the rear shock pistons, they were know to explode in the rear of the Outcast, I only ever broke 3.

 

[BOOG]

Idk about out bash, but it would certainly hang in there. The weakest thing is going to be the shock shafts I'm pretty sure I bent 6 of them in the first 2 months of owning mine. Oh and keep an eye on the rear shock pistons, they were know to explode in the rear of the Outcast, I only ever broke 3.

I need to get some batteries asap. How can I tell if my batteries are bad?

I think they might be a touch to big but double check the measurements.

How about the Turnigy Graphene Panther 5000mAh 3S 75C Battery Pack

 

[slick2500]

I need to get some batteries asap. How can I tell if my batteries are bad?

How about the Turnigy Graphene Panther 5000mAh 3S 75C Battery Pack

Again check the dimensions. I know the Turnigy HD 5000mah 6s brick was a tight fit in the battery tray. The battery tray is 158x48x70mm / 6.22x1.89x2.76"

 

[BOOG]

Again check the dimensions. I know the Turnigy HD 5000mah 6s brick was a tight fit in the battery tray.

Sorry I try to look up the v1 battery tray specs but only 1s that pop up are the v3 and v4 spec qZw,

 

[slick2500]

Sorry I try to look up the v1 battery tray specs but only 1s that pop up are the v3 and v4 spec qZw,

Yeah Outcast V1 already has the most recent battery tray 158x48x70mm / 6.22x1.89x2.76"
Sorry I'm balls deep in a project and have parts laying all over the place at the moment.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/vehicle-comparison/AR106027/ARA106042T1

 

[BOOG]

Cool so those turnigy batteries should fit

Yeah Outcast V1 already has the most recent battery tray 158x48x70mm / 6.22x1.89x2.76"
Sorry I'm balls deep in a project and have parts laying all over the place at the moment.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/vehicle-comparison/AR106027/ARA106042T1

Cool so those turnigy batteries will fit

Yeah Outcast V1 already has the most recent battery tray 158x48x70mm / 6.22x1.89x2.76"
Sorry I'm balls deep in a project and have parts laying all over the place at the moment.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/vehicle-comparison/AR106027/ARA106042T1

Dang same machine with slightly different adjustments. Seems like the latest version has ic5 connectors instead of the xt90s connectors. Im forsure not buying the latest version just going to upgrade it little by little haha

 

[BOOG]

Yeah Outcast V1 already has the most recent battery tray 158x48x70mm / 6.22x1.89x2.76"
Sorry I'm balls deep in a project and have parts laying all over the place at the moment.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/vehicle-comparison/AR106027/ARA106042T1

I ran the outcast today and it seemed fine. Bought the turnigy 3s 5000mah panther batteries and was only able to fit 1 inside which I was pretty bummed out about. Now I can only run it in 3s probably can't even return the battery now. Bought them off hobby king

 

[SrC]

Nothing wrong with v1-v3's. You got it at a good price point back then. Drive it, enjoy it. A bird in the hand is worth 2 in the bush. You had put this bad boy down for a while, and it wasn't damaged. Just sat for a bit. Replace parts as they break. Even the newer ones break. Parts should interchange no problem. It will drive the same or similar to current ones. No real difference. It is in nice condition as it sits.
I myself would consider an M2C chassis/ front/rear braces ( No Tower to Tower brace Needed with M2C chassis) and perhaps shocks. Up the differential weights all around to 60k fr.-500k cnt.-30k Rr. Definitely consider lubing all bearings or replacing them with an inexpensive sealed set. It will drive nicer drivetrain wise.
Just bash it from there.

 

[slick2500]

I ran the outcast today and it seemed fine. Bought the turnigy 3s 5000mah panther batteries and was only able to fit 1 inside which I was pretty bummed out about. Now I can only run it in 3s probably can't even return the battery now. Bought them off hobby king

You can remove the black plastic slider from the tray to allow you to run both batteries.