Help - Lugs not reaching the tire to tighten

[parcou]

Never had this issue seems quite stupid...

Losi DBXL-E 2.0 added DGI 1" hex extenders pictured. I also have Outcast 8S Dboot Backflip 24mm tires. When I put the tire on and tightened the lug nut, it stopped at about 2-4mm short of tighten against the tire. The lug cap is closed.

What can I do to fix this issue? I do not want to grind down the hex I do not have the tools or ability to do that evenly.

What options do I have?

Thx

 

[dure16]

That car is coming together nicely. Good work upgrading the right things.

Onto your issue - I have those same DGI 1” extenders on mine and I have bolted and run the Outcast 8S tires with no issue.

The only difference I can come up with is that I ran the old tires, and maybe Arrma made the wheel hex narrower with the new tire version that launched with the EXB V2? Do you know which tire version you have?

 

[parcou]

That car is coming together nicely. Good work upgrading the right things.

Onto your issue - I have those same DGI 1” extenders on mine and I have bolted and run the Outcast 8S tires with no issue.

The only difference I can come up with is that I ran the old tires, and maybe Arrma made the wheel hex narrower with the new tire version that launched with the EXB V2? Do you know which tire version you have?

Thx for the props...

Yep, they came from JRC, so it would be the newer style. There was a tire sold for the Infraction or Felony that needed washers for those 17mm. Curious if this has been the case for some 24mm tires where there is a shim.

Now I wish I had those older BFs...dang!

Thx

 

[Garcbomber]

Run a thin standard hex and then the cap, essentially a double nut. That’s what I do on Mojave. I have a lathe turned impact socket deep enough to back both out but still only torque one at a time.

 

[RCbuzz]

Nice idea on the double nut!

Run a thin standard hex and then the cap, essentially a double nut. That’s what I do on Mojave. I have a lathe turned impact socket deep enough to back both out but still only torque one at a time.

Nice idea!

 

[dure16]

@parcou I think the easy fix here is to use a generic 24mm hex instead of using the capped DGI hex. Your stock nuts would probably fit.

Run a thin standard hex and then the cap, essentially a double nut. That’s what I do on Mojave. I have a lathe turned impact socket deep enough to back both out but still only torque one at a time.

That would work as well, if you want the dirt protection or aesthetics of the closed hex nut.

 

[parcou]

Run a thin standard hex and then the cap, essentially a double nut. That’s what I do on Mojave. I have a lathe turned impact socket deep enough to back both out but still only torque one at a time.

Nice idea...really nice

@parcou I think the easy fix here is to use a generic 24mm hex instead of using the capped DGI hex. Your stock nuts would probably fit.

The seller did not give me the stock nuts. He put the closed cap black Losi nuts on...

 

[slick2500]

You could also run a washer between the wheel and the hub if you have any the proper size.

 

[dure16]

You could also run a washer between the wheel and the hub if you have any the proper size.

While this would work, it would also lessen the grip/overlap between hex and wheel for transfer of power.

The seller did not give me the stock nuts. He put the closed cap black Losi nuts on...

Dang. I used my stock nuts for a different project otherwise I’d send them to you. I’m sure you can find a cheap set somewhere.

 

[Littlemotor]

Dremels are cheap… Would be the most ideal solution to me..

 

[parcou]

You could also run a washer between the wheel and the hub if you have any the proper size.

Originally, I wanted to get feedback from someone about the washer they used on 24mm. What size did they start with? The inside diameter is 17.82mm ish, but trying to figure out the outer diameter is not so easy since part of it is hex, and I cannot get the tool in there.

Dremels are cheap… Would be the most ideal solution to me..

Agree costs too much if I mess up and I have to repeat it 4x...not that good

 

[dure16]

I bet these would work fine. I think most options will bolt right up. Traxxas uses a weird screw thread pitch but pretty much everyone else is standardized.

https://primalrc.com/product/PRRMT100/

 

[parcou]

I bet these would work fine. I think most options will bolt right up. Traxxas uses a weird screw thread pitch but pretty much everyone else is standardized.

https://primalrc.com/product/PRRMT100/

Thx for the link Boss!

 

[Littlemotor]

Originally, I wanted to get feedback from someone about the washer they used on 24mm. What size did they start with? The inside diameter is 17.82mm ish, but trying to figure out the outer diameter is not so easy since part of it is hex, and I cannot get the tool in there.


Agree costs too much if I mess up and I have to repeat it 4x...not that good

Just saying that’s the most correct way to resolve it without taking your hexes to a machine shop, or buying the correct covered wheel nuts. Keeps you from “rigging it” with washers that minimize the contact surfaces of the parts driving the vehicle. Of course it goes without saying that steady hands will prevail.

 

[parcou]

Just saying that’s the most correct way to resolve it without taking your hexes to a machine shop, or buying the correct covered wheel nuts. Keeps you from “rigging it” with washers that minimize the contact surfaces of the parts driving the vehicle. Of course it goes without saying that steady hands will prevail.

You have a point...

If I took my simple Dremel tool—the only thing I have with a wheel (stone or carbon)—I assume I could keep it on the rig and go at it slow and steady, even as I can, to mill it down some.

I assume it would not mess up the end thread when trying to screw it back on.

Sounds like how you would go at it?

 

[RCbuzz]

You have a point...

If I took my simple Dremel tool—the only thing I have with a wheel (stone or carbon)—I assume I could keep it on the rig and go at it slow and steady, even as I can, to mill it down some.

I assume it would not mess up the end thread when trying to screw it back on.

Sounds like how you would go at it?

If you have a 24mm nut put it on the hex before you dremel, that way after the cut you can back it off and "restore" the thread.

If it was me I would probably use a washer or just use a non "acorn" style nut.

 

[Littlemotor]

You have a point...

If I took my simple Dremel tool—the only thing I have with a wheel (stone or carbon)—I assume I could keep it on the rig and go at it slow and steady, even as I can, to mill it down some.

I assume it would not mess up the end thread when trying to screw it back on.

Sounds like how you would go at it?

Personally, I would not use any type of stone, or sanding drum to grind on it. Unless you’re a robot, or have thousands of hours of time on a Dremel, or grinder doing port-work, or something else of the like; it’ll be nearly impossible to keep the modification perpendicular with the hex.

The way I’d approach this if it were my rig would be one of two feasible solutions.

1st things first, bust out your caliper, and make your measurements so that you can make a clear, and established point to stop at, while keeping the end result perpendicular with the wheel hex. Keep in mind, the more time you spend performing the modification, the hotter that aluminum is going to get. I recommend going nice and easy with the Dremel, and in 5-10 second “spurts” with the sanding block plan.. You’ll see what I mean below..

I’d either risk using masking tape over anything else with an adhesive backside (that will be against the threads), as it’s more likely to stay put while the heat cooks it, OR The other option would be to use aluminum foil. Cut a sizable piece out, and fold it over itself several times to make it not so delicate, and the width you want based on your measurement of what’s to exit the chat from the hex itself. Make it long enough to cleanly wrap around the threads, and secure it with a small ziptie. Now that your “guide” is in place, check your measurement on how much you’re taking off.

Again, I’d choose one of two ways to do this..

1) toss the hex into a vise with a blue disposable “shop” lint free paper towel, and use a cut-off wheel on your dremel.

-or-

2) secure the vehicle with the hexes still installed, grab a sanding block with some 80 grit, and turn your throttle trim up, while applying LIGHT pressure to the “face” of the hex, being careful not to cause a bunch of diff action to the truck.

Which ever way you choose, go after it with 220, then 320 to dress the edge to a SLIGHT chamfer/bevel.

This is verbatim-how I’ve done this EVERYtime I’ve ever had to cut down threads in about the past 30yrs, and have had excellent results. You could also remove the hexes, where some gloves, and go at it with a stationary belt sander/face sander if your hands are steady enough to be comfortable, but the sanding block/using the truck’s own power will be much simpler in this case imho, and with the same result.

Take your time. Prep work is always the key. Measure twice, cut once..

 

[Littlemotor]

As far as the foil goes, in case my verbal instructions were sub-par in helping to visualize what I’m talking about; here’s what I mean, while using a simple sheet of notebook paper cut to roughly the size required to wrap around the threads.. I do it this way to help with rigidity to be strong enough to do the job while not deforming under the pressure of the ziptie around it. It’s only a guide, so that you can clearly see what you’re doing.