Kraton How to stop dust getting inside

[blaster27]

If I get it dirty, I clean it. If not it will just be harder and harder, to clean. I blow the crap off with a blower that I bought. It's so powerful, that I need ear protection. Then I use the pink stuff. That's the name of it. Then I wipe it down with a medical gauss wipe. Works for me and is easy to do.

The dusty cover should help. Attaches by Velcro. Then I bought guards. Front and rear. This is on a Sledge. If you do your homework, you can do it. The blower is for indoor use. The Dusty cover is thin to allow air in. Prevents over heating. Im doing this setup for snow. After I get it wet in that snow, I will blow dry it. Hope this helps.

 

[Horatio]

If I get it dirty, I clean it. If not it will just be harder and harder, to clean. I blow the crap off with a blower that I bought. It's so powerful, that I need ear protection. Then I use the pink stuff. That's the name of it. Then I wipe it down with a medical gauss wipe. Works for me and is easy to do. View attachment 333003
The dusty cover should help. Attaches by Velcro. Then I bought guards. Front and rear. This is on a Sledge. If you do your homework, you can do it. The blower is for indoor use. The Dusty cover is thin to allow air in. Prevents over heating. Im doing this setup for snow. After I get it wet in that snow, I will blow dry it. Hope this helps.

Looks squeaky clean with you. I notice snow does a really good job of getting stuff clean too! Win/win.

 

[blaster27]

I am way anal when it comes to a new rig. I try and keep all the parts clean. I do the same with my 1-1 cars as well. At least till the honeymoon is over.

 

[Horatio]

I am way anal when it comes to a new rig. I try and keep all the parts clean. I do the same with my 1-1 cars as well. At least till the honeymoon is over.

You sound like my brother from a different mother.

In the summer, our 1:1 cars are valeted and polished frequently.

 

[NewDudeHere]

silicone will form a thicker, wetter layer that may collect dust and dirt. PTFE will have a thinner, yet harder layer that will not attract dust or absorb grime.

This is why I get GT85 - it's excellent for cleaning, displacing water and making plastics look nice.

View attachment 331887

i regret applying silicon now. it literally bonded with dust and become paste and tough to get it off. i purchased a dry cycle chain lube
https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B06XPCJH4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it has the same properties as you guys mentioned. its getting dried off after sparying. need to drive it to test it out

ALSO after brushing eveything, when i rotate wheel i hear some sand getting grinded sounds from bearing/drive shaft i don't know. but the bearing are sealedi think in kraton 6s. the sound is very minimal! do i have clean the bearing every time or maybe after4 or 5 packs?

 

[Horatio]

i regret applying silicon now. it literally bonded with dust and become paste and tough to get it off. i purchased a dry cycle chain lube
https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B06XPCJH4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it has the same properties as you guys mentioned. its getting dried off after sparying. need to drive it to test it out

ALSO after brushing eveything, when i rotate wheel i hear some sand getting grinded sounds from bearing/drive shaft i don't know. but the bearing are sealedi think in kraton 6s. the sound is very minimal! do i have clean the bearing every time or maybe after4 or 5 packs?

Every day is a school day! Literally never stop finding stuff out.

Gritty bearing syndrome could be dirt ingress, but it's more likely corrosion. You may be able to remove the seals, clean it in solvent, re-lube and find the gritty sound goes away.

If not, just replace the bearing. They're cheap enough these days.

 

[NewDudeHere]

Every day is a school day! Literally never stop finding stuff out.

Gritty bearing syndrome could be dirt ingress, but it's more likely corrosion. You may be able to remove the seals, clean it in solvent, re-lube and find the gritty sound goes away.

If not, just replace the bearing. They're cheap enough these days.

can i just put the ptfe stuff after cleaning the bearings or should i use some other lube this one

 

[Horatio]

can i just put the ptfe stuff after cleaning the bearings or should i use some other lube this one

For bearings, once you've carefully removed the seals (for rubber sealed bearings - for shielded bearings don't attempt to remove the shields) and degreased them in alcohol or carb cleaner - you can either lube them with bearing grease (lasts ages but increases the rolling resistance)

or light machine oil (bearing specific - needs replacing more often but is faster - ideal for racing).

PTFE is excellent for dry-lubing CVDs and water repellency. It makes plastics look nice, too. However, it's not the best choice for bearings.

 

[SrC]

I think this thread is Hilarious.
The blind leading the blind.
Search AF for better more accurate information. And These are RC's. They are meant to get dirty. And New is ony New one time, out the box. Just have fun driving them. A little dirt never hurt anything. Despite looking nice and clean on the Shelf, Over cleaning and done the wrong way will actually ruin it. Focus on your BB's more, especially if you like wet running. They will rust in a heartbeat. So I don't do the wet thing. I know it's fun, but..... BB seals must be removed to be cleaned with a solvent and then Grease 1/3, then resealed. Pretty much new again, a second life until you replace them next time around. The BB's are not perfecty sealed, can't be, water ingress will absolutely rust out these Chromium BB's. A good water proof grease helps add some life and moral support. Only Use Oil for the Motor BB's, and after they are cleaned. They are not sealed, just have Shields that allow water to enter easily.
And Water+ Electrics simply don't mix. Never do, despite what they say, being WP. Been there.
My 3 cents.


Edit.
Yes we all do the RC thing differently.
35+ years for me, 19 RC's later. I focus on Wrenching and Preventive maintnenance/ lubing. The Motor and drivetrain parts. I spend more time driving this way. Way less downtime with breakages. Less time making it squeaky clean, only to get dusty and dirty again. Just blow it off well after running for the most part, if anything. Keep the Cleaning thing K.I.S.S. Learn how to maintain the BB's, so they wont blow out on you when bashing. Have new sets of them on the side at all times. And just swap out any questionable ones, before they crap on you out in the field. A Fail.
When I do a complete teardown of the rig is when each and every part is cleaned very well. Maybe once every few years. 30-50 runs or so.

 

[Horatio]

I think this thread is Hilarious.
The blind leading the blind.
Search AF for better more accurate information. And These are RC's. They are meant to get dirty. And New is ony New one time, out the box. Just have fun driving them. A little dirt never hurt anything. Despite looking nice and clean on the Shelf, Over cleaning and done the wrong way will actually ruin it. Focus on your BB's more, especially if you like wet running. They will rust in a heartbeat. So I don't do the wet thing. I know it's fun, but.....
My 3 cents.

The blind leading the blind? Elaborate about over cleaning and ruining RC cars.

No harm in getting rigs dirty - but leaving them dirty?

My rigs live on a shelf between runs. I did try leaving them laying around, but my wife kept tripping over them - so, you know - a shelf it is.

The oldest of them is the best part of 20 years old but still looks brand new - and runs like a champ - because I look after it.

Edit: 43 years and over 30 RC cars later, many of which were raced at regional and national level.

After every round, it's standard to keep cars thoroughly cleaned. In damp or muddy conditions, this isn't usually limited to a quick blast with compressed air - because it simply isn't sufficient.

I'll go on to say:

When the OP starts a thread asking 'how to stop dust getting in' and then 2 pages later - someone chimes in saying the thread is hilarious, blind leading the blind, they're meant to get dirty, use the search function yada yada - having not answered the OP's actual question....some might say it's antagonistic.

 

[SrC]

Yeah I have many older vintage rigs that rarely get used. They remain clean. But for a rig that gets used often will simply get dirty. And No,,, dirt left on a rig does No harm at all. What dirt does get into the Bulkheads Motor and BB's is way more important. Disassembly is always required to clean them out, and relube them. Water and many chemicals, sprays and all, just adds insult to injury. Especially WD40. It's a solvent that ruins the BB's. But many like how the Chassis shines, so they love it and douse the whole chassis. Like they are Armoralling the dashboard of their 1:1 Car. NG IMHO. Just one example. One guy does it so the rest also follow without knowing better.
Like I said, we all do this differently. Just I don't Over Clean or Over Think needing it perfectly clean. If you store these in your living space inside the living room etc. I get it. They can tend to stink of dirt after a while. Make a mess. I get that completely.
Making it very clean like it is New, doesn't make it mechanically sound at all is what I am saying. Can often work against you.
A strong blower and a Nice soft 3 inch paint brush to dust off the whole chassis is fine. Wash the Body in the sink, and you are done. Remove, then "Wipe" down the Wheels with Simple Green and you are golden. Don't wash the wheels in the sink. Or the inner Foams, getting wet will shred apart, stink and rot with mold, ultimately getting early tire blowouts. Also, never spray down the chassis with cleaner. Spray a Microfiber cloth and wipe everything. Again it doesn't have to be perfectly clean in every nook and cranny. Some guys even rinse off their rig in the sink. With ESC , electrics and all. That is just crazy.

 

[Horatio]

Yeah I have many older vintage rigs that rarely get used. They remain clean. But for a rig that gets used often will simply get dirty. And No,,, dirt left on a rig does No harm at all. What dirt does get into the Bulkheads Motor and BB's is way more important. Disassembly is always required to clean them out, and relube them. Water and many chemicals, sprays and all, just adds insult to injury. Especially WD40. It's a solvent that ruins the BB's. But many like how the Chassis shines, so they love it and douse the whole chassis. Like they are Armoralling the dashboard of their 1:1 Car. NG IMHO. Just one example. One guy does it so the rest also follow without knowing better.
Like I said, we all do this differently. Just I don't Over Clean or Over Think needing it perfectly clean. If you store these in your living space inside the living room etc. I get it. They can tend to stink of dirt after a while. Make a mess. I get that completely.
Making it very clean like it is New, doesn't make it mechanically sound at all is what I am saying. Can often work against you.
A strong blower and a Nice soft 3 inch paint brush to dust off the whole chassis is fine. Wash the Body in the sink, and you are done. "Wipe" down the Wheels with Simple Green and you are golden. Don't wash the wheels in the sink. Or the inner Foams, getting wet will shred apart, stink and rot with mold, ultimately getting early tire blowouts. Also, never spray down the chassis with cleaner. Spray a Microfiber cloth and wipe everything. Again it doesn't have to be perfectly clean in every nook and cranny. Some guys even rinse off their rig in the sink. With ESC , electrics and all. That is just crazy.

If you're keeping your rig clean routinely, you're more likely to spot problems in the first place - identifying non-routine stuff early.

Fun fact: Soaking drive belts in WD40 softens them, making them more pliable. And faster.

I certainly wouldn't recommend using it on all the plastics for that reason.

PTFE on the other hand helps prevent dirt from sticking and is good on CVDs etc. GT85 is a very useful cleaner and protector, and whilst it doesn't stop dust from getting in, it helps prevent it staying in.

 

[SrC]

If it makes you feel better, I do spray my body with Ceramic Car wax. I like Mothers Brand products myself.
PTFE is a "solid", that works best as a friction modifier in Lubricants, i.e. High temp Oils and Grease. PTFE has become a catch all marketting term, used incorrectly and in such tiny amounts that it makes no difference, does nothing when sprayed as a detailing/cleaning spray. From my exper.
I used "Dupont Chain Saver" Spray on my CVDs and sometimes my squeaky ball ends and Pivot balls. Great for any chains as well. Its specifically for Motorcycle chains. Wax based with PTFE and Moly. A dry Lube. Attracts Zero dirt, by the wax base displacing it. Not for BB's however. It Lasts for 3,000 miles on a motorcycle chain, so you know it is durable and WP.
I use Superlube synthetic Oil and Grease, with PTFE (Teflon). Grease in my BBs and Diff main gears and the Oil in motor BB's. But any Automotive grade grease is fine. Been through all the Expensive RC boutique Oils and greases in tiny quantities. You don't know what you are getting. It's just repurposed Grease, whatever it is, repackaged for RC use. A Waste of coin. Most of it is cheap grade crap in a small fancy bottle that says for RC Use. Like it is Gold or something. Sometimes costing more than gold by weight.

 

[Horatio]

If it makes you feel better, I do spray my body with Ceramic Car wax. I like Mothers Brand products myself.
PTFE is a solid, that works best as a friction modifier in Lubricants, i.e. High temp Oils and Grease. PTFE has become a catch all marketting term, used incorrectly and in tiny amounts that it makes no difference, does nothing when sprayed as a detailing/cleaning spray. From my exper.
I used "Dupont Chain Saver" Spray on my CVDs and sometimes my squeaky ball ends and Pivot balls. Great for any chains as well. Its specifically for Motorcycle chains. Wax based with PTFE and Moly. A dry Lube. Attracts Zero dirt, by the wax base displacing it. Not for BB's however.
I use Superlube synthetic Oil and Grease, with PTFE (Teflon). Grease in my BBs and Diff main gears and the Oil in motor BB's. But any Automotive grade grease is fine.

Dude, it doesn't make me feel any kinda way if people want to keep their rigs dirty.

The gist of this thread was that PTFE is useful for cleaning and for dry lube. The thread that you wrote off in your first post.

Now in your edited more recent post, you express the virtues of PTFE. Copy that!

 

[SrC]

PTFE is a thing. I know. But It is not the holy grail, be all end all. If I missed your point ... I did. Sorry.

On a side note. I had 3 DMC covers. They do nothing for dust ingress... still passes through. And much of the dust just builds up on the mesh and makes things hotter. The Mesh only affords 50% of air flow through it when it is clean. It will keep pebbles and some larger debris out. I had one cover flash up in flames while connecting my Mains Lipo connector. The Spark. I'll call that a freak happening, that no one else complained about to date. Once was enough for me.
I put a flame to my one other Cover and found it fires up easily. Completely disintegrates right down up to the Velcro.

 

[Horatio]

PTFE is a thing. I know. But It is not the holy grail, be all end all. If I missed your point ... I did. Sorry.

On a side note. I had 3 DMC covers. They do nothing for dust ingress... still passes through. And much of the dust just builds up on the mesh and makes things hotter. The Mesh only affords 50% of air fow through it when it is clean. It will keep pebbles and some larger debris out. I had one cover flash up in flames while connecting my Mains Lipo connector. The Spark. I'll call that a freak happening, that no one else complained about to date. Once was enough for me.

Strawman is a thing, also. I'm not sure anyone here was suggesting it was the holy grail, be all and end all OR to be used instead of maintenance.

But - it is certainly better than silicone as a helpful dry lube and cleaning aid. Fact.

Unless you're from California, in which case it's probably banned.

As for dusty motors covers - they reduce the amount of debris - especially grass clippings - which in the UK will kill your fans, destroy your ESC and overheat motors quicker than any alleged lack of airflow.

My temps do not match what you claim - that they reduce the airflow by 50%. My data simply doesn't correlate with it. I've never had one spontaneously combust, either.

It's interesting to note that you state 'they do nothing for dust ingress' then totally contradict that statement with 'much of the dust builds up on the mesh'. Which is it? Because it can't be both.

Dusty motors massively reduce the amount of crap getting into my rig - including gravel that can also ruin the alloy center diff if it gets trapped between the diff and the chassis.

Exactly the same reasoning behind using outerwears. I've managed not to set them on fire either.

So, we'll have to agree to differ(ential) on the chassis shrouds as well. People have to use what works for them - etc.

You have to clean the muck, dust, oil off the dusty motors shrouds. Good housekeeping reduces the risk of fire as you've proved!!

All ready for next speed run. 0-60 in 3.79 seconds to beat.

6S Onyx RC Graphene Extreme, 4200 watt 4292 1780KV.

Not bad for such a clean rig, eh?!

 

[Surchaufeur]

Excatly i did this, i blowed it with leaf blower and most of the tiny dust went away and rubbed the remaing dust with soft brush.


Can i use this threadmill silicon spray? And where should i spray this? At wheels joints? Where the jojns move?

Should i brush off the silicon spray after spraying it? Or skeep the silcon oil?

View attachment 331883

View attachment 331884

Dirt magnet
Leaf blower or an air compressor will get the dust off

 

[NewDudeHere]

Dirt magnet
Leaf blower or an air compressor will get the dust off

leaft blower is unable to get rid of dust which is accumulated from silicon spray easily as i need to brush it thoroughly

but with ptfe lube its definitely as you say. blowing it off with leaf blower will get rid of most of it

 

[SrC]

Strawman is a thing, also. I'm not sure anyone here was suggesting it was the holy grail, be all and end all OR to be used instead of maintenance.

But - it is certainly better than silicone as a helpful dry lube and cleaning aid. Fact.

Unless you're from California, in which case it's probably banned.

As for dusty motors covers - they reduce the amount of debris - especially grass clippings - which in the UK will kill your fans, destroy your ESC and overheat motors quicker than any alleged lack of airflow.

My temps do not match what you claim - that they reduce the airflow by 50%. My data simply doesn't correlate with it. I've never had one spontaneously combust, either.

It's interesting to note that you state 'they do nothing for dust ingress' then totally contradict that statement with 'much of the dust builds up on the mesh'. Which is it? Because it can't be both.

Dusty motors massively reduce the amount of crap getting into my rig - including gravel that can also ruin the alloy center diff if it gets trapped between the diff and the chassis.

Exactly the same reasoning behind using outerwears. I've managed not to set them on fire either.

View attachment 333342

So, we'll have to agree to differ(ential) on the chassis shrouds as well. People have to use what works for them - etc.

You have to clean the muck, dust, oil off the dusty motors shrouds. Good housekeeping reduces the risk of fire as you've proved!!
View attachment 333320
All ready for next speed run. 0-60 in 3.79 seconds to beat.

6S Onyx RC Graphene Extreme, 4200 watt 4292 1780KV.

View attachment 333321
Not bad for such a clean rig, eh?!

I agree with much of what you said when I went all in and got 3 Dusty Motor Covers of differet sizes for my MT410, TA SCT and 6s Kraton. like 5 years back, when they were the trending basher thing.. Keeps much gravel and rocks out no doubt. Fans don't get all clogged easily. I did find the motor fans suck the screen into it however, and was a nuisance to change out lipos. I don't feel the trade off was worth it for me.. Many guys run these however, I get that. The reality is that the fine Nylon mesh cover only permits 50% airflow, this is per DMC. Dust does collect and pack into on top of the screen and keeps things warmer. I never overheated directly from this, but it did run warmer. DMC even states this. And yeah, No one ever said theirs burned up like a flash fire., like mine. I admit it. I posted that on AF some years back. You have nice rigs there for sure.
I never silicone spray or anything on my chassis. Just collects even more dust.
Mostly I use a paint brush and a leaf bower. Other times I carefully use a Compressor. A compressor can push dirt and water passing thru the seals and into the BB's making them worse off than leaving those areas dirty/dusty. Especially at the Hubs and Diff bulkhead BB's.

 

[Horatio]

I agree with much of what you said when I went all in and got 3 Dusty Motor Covers of differet sizes for my MT410, TA SCT and 6s Kraton. like 5 years back, when they were the trending basher thing.. Keeps much gravel and rocks out no doubt. Fans don't get all clogged easily. I did find the motor fans suck the screen into it however, and was a nuisance to change out lipos. I don't feel the trade off was worth it for me.. Many guys run these however, I get that. The reality is that the fine Nylon mesh cover only permits 50% airflow, this is per DMC. Dust does collect and pack into on top of the screen and keeps things warmer. I never overheated directly from this, but it did run warmer. DMC even states this. And yeah, No one ever said theirs burned up like a flash fire., like mine. I admit it. I posted that on AF some years back. You have nice rigs there for sure.
I never silicone spray or anything on my chassis. Just collects even more dust.
Mostly I use a paint brush and a leaf bower. Other times I carefully use a Compressor. A compressor can push dirt and water passing thru the seals and into the BB's making them worse off than leaving those areas dirty/dusty. Especially at the Hubs and Diff bulkhead BB's.

Interesting. I read one of your other posts that stated that you had many Dusty Motors shrouds.

My rig has 3 fans. And the problem with grass is this:

In my experience, puny little fans stand no chance unless they're given a chance.

The fans effectively suck in all the crap. Ditto for the dual fans I required after that run. It was evident the motor wasn't going to survive going thermonuclear. 200° ain't healthy.

Again, this largely depends on where you run and what surface you're on.

I decided to act before I destroyed both my ESC and Motor.

As far as 50% airflow is concerned - Dusty Motors actually state:

"The open area of a material is more than 50% of total shroud surface, so it ensures a very good airflow in order to keep the model electronics cool."

It does not state 50% airflow.

Dusty Motors do suggest leaving the shroud un-zipped during hot weather, but I personally have always run with it fully zipped up. Then again, the hottest ambient temperature I've run in is 30°C. (86°F).

When I'm not doing speed runs, I'm blasting around on a Dirt/Grass surface with natural mounds.

Taking batteries in and out, generally I just unzip it and fold it back. Takes 5 seconds. Certainly no worse than unclipping a body.

Horses for courses - for many, the consequences of not running a shroud are appreciably worse than slightly reduced airflow.

People need to apply their own critical thinking to decide what makes sense for them and ignore blatant misrepresentation.