Jlwalden21
Active Member
Like pretty much everyone else that has an v5 6s; I've been struggling with crap steering from an ever loosening (non udjustable and never loosening)servo saver!! Lol...
Which, from my crazy spending spree (on upgrades for things that I had no friggin clue what their purpose was, immediately after buying my 6s because of all the needed upgrades YouTube vids and forum posts..lol) that I went on months ago, I still have a new HR ALUMINUM BELLCRANK Steering assembly for the 6s that I had yet to install...mainly because I was intimidated by dealing with disassembling the new servo savers on these trucks, so I had only taken the bearings out to replace the bushings from stock setup with...
Now months later, I've just recently put in a new servo along with another spending spree part, the HR 25t horn with steering arm (installed the HR mount way back when I replaced the bushings) hoping that'd help much more than it did, so I finally decided to tackle the servo saver since it doesn't faze me to think about dealing with anymore, and much much easier than East coast tactics video or another disassembly video on YouTube led me to believe it'd be.
Mine had ZERO...0...NADDA..NONE... absolutely not a drop of loctite on the tube's threads, allowing me to depress the spring far enough by hand, to be able to untwist the servo tube with my bare damn hands....which made complete sense of why my steering was so danggum poop doodie stanky.
..AND TO FINALLY GET TO THE POINT...
Am I better off with keeping the plastic bellcrank and just reassembling with locktite and E clips added to tighten up the spring?
..OR...
Will the HR ALUMINUM bellcrank be the better option and not pretty much be an servo saver eliminator because it's metal and won't give or flex as much as I'm going to need when bashing, so I'm not going to just destroy my servo after my first bad landing with it??? Because after assembling using the HR bellcrank, the exact same measurements are reached in total length of servo saver as the stock as well as spring tension and all other stock specs, which lead me to think that since the stock one was pretty much loose as can be, then the aluminum one would be given enough spring flex to allow some desired servo saver action when called for.
I have no clue how tight I'm trying to gain in a servo saver done right, so I have no way of knowing if it's going to kill my servo fast or what...but I do know that unlike the stock servo saver, I'm unable to get any give or flex with applying tension by hand to the aluminum servo saver assembly.
..BUT I CAN THANKFULLY SAY THAT FOR THE FIRST TIME, I HAVE AMAZINGLY RESPONSIVE STEERING AND CAN FINALLY ENJOY HOW ITS SUPPOSE TO FEEL LIKE WHEN DRIVING IT...
So I'd like to keep the aluminum setup if it's not going to just cost me a new servo every time I land wrong..HAAALLP?!?!
Which, from my crazy spending spree (on upgrades for things that I had no friggin clue what their purpose was, immediately after buying my 6s because of all the needed upgrades YouTube vids and forum posts..lol) that I went on months ago, I still have a new HR ALUMINUM BELLCRANK Steering assembly for the 6s that I had yet to install...mainly because I was intimidated by dealing with disassembling the new servo savers on these trucks, so I had only taken the bearings out to replace the bushings from stock setup with...
Now months later, I've just recently put in a new servo along with another spending spree part, the HR 25t horn with steering arm (installed the HR mount way back when I replaced the bushings) hoping that'd help much more than it did, so I finally decided to tackle the servo saver since it doesn't faze me to think about dealing with anymore, and much much easier than East coast tactics video or another disassembly video on YouTube led me to believe it'd be.
Mine had ZERO...0...NADDA..NONE... absolutely not a drop of loctite on the tube's threads, allowing me to depress the spring far enough by hand, to be able to untwist the servo tube with my bare damn hands....which made complete sense of why my steering was so danggum poop doodie stanky.
..AND TO FINALLY GET TO THE POINT...
Am I better off with keeping the plastic bellcrank and just reassembling with locktite and E clips added to tighten up the spring?
..OR...
Will the HR ALUMINUM bellcrank be the better option and not pretty much be an servo saver eliminator because it's metal and won't give or flex as much as I'm going to need when bashing, so I'm not going to just destroy my servo after my first bad landing with it??? Because after assembling using the HR bellcrank, the exact same measurements are reached in total length of servo saver as the stock as well as spring tension and all other stock specs, which lead me to think that since the stock one was pretty much loose as can be, then the aluminum one would be given enough spring flex to allow some desired servo saver action when called for.
I have no clue how tight I'm trying to gain in a servo saver done right, so I have no way of knowing if it's going to kill my servo fast or what...but I do know that unlike the stock servo saver, I'm unable to get any give or flex with applying tension by hand to the aluminum servo saver assembly.
..BUT I CAN THANKFULLY SAY THAT FOR THE FIRST TIME, I HAVE AMAZINGLY RESPONSIVE STEERING AND CAN FINALLY ENJOY HOW ITS SUPPOSE TO FEEL LIKE WHEN DRIVING IT...
So I'd like to keep the aluminum setup if it's not going to just cost me a new servo every time I land wrong..HAAALLP?!?!
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