Typhon Is this answerable?

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44Dan44

I'm not superstitious, but I am a little stitious.
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Arrma RC's
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I know most of you build for different type of speed runs such as max mph or 0-40 time (I don't understand that one except for commonality to other forum people) 🤷‍♂️ Why not 0-60?
Typhon
What combo of center diff gearing will be fastest to 132ft exclusively.
Stock center diff is 50T Optional 46T
Spur ________ for 132 feet?
 
I know most of you build for different type of speed runs such as max mph or 0-40 time (I don't understand that one except for commonality to other forum people) 🤷‍♂️ Why not 0-60?
Typhon
What combo of center diff gearing will be fastest to 132ft exclusively.
Stock center diff is 50T Optional 46T
Spur ________ for 132 feet?
This is all going to depend on what tires you are running, if it is asphalt or concrete,what power plant you have. If the diffs are locked or not.
 
Stock Spektrum 4074 2050Kv
GRP GTJ02-S2 Slick XSoft and S1 XXSoft
Asphalt, great condition
Front is currently at 10k, Center at 200k, Rear at 10K I'm currently working on slow mo video with the intent to catch wheel spin and suspension reaction, how the wheelie bar contacts the ground etc and I plan to adjust shocks and start off with going to 100k fluid front and rear and then higher as needed.

Stock center diff with the optional speed pinion they included in box 👇🏼 I need to go much faster but ok for literally it's maiden voyage.

IMG_4990.PNG
 
One interesting thing is that foam tires will perform better.
You could change nothing else and just swap to foams and see a reduced time.

I believe BSR and Sweeps are the go to foams. Foams can also be used with traction compounds to gain some insane acceleration/grip levels.
 
If you're exclusively going to be running 132, ditch the Spektrum ESC and put in something else. A DRK160 or MonsterX both are great for drag and have the tuning options you need to hit the best ET you can...the MonsterX is probably the better solution for a Typhon, the DRK160 is really meant for no-prep 2wd cars. You could also get some significant gains by locking your diffs, but again, ONLY DO THIS if you are running this straight...it'll have negative consequences if you're just bashing around and cornering. As @LibertyMKiii said, foams will also make a pretty significant difference. If you want to maximize your gains, get soft compound. You'll burn through them relatively quickly, but that's the trade-off. Sweeps are the go-to for the guys running 1/8 4wd cars in my area. https://www.sweepracingusa.com/Swee...AM-TIRES-for-GT8-17mm-HEX-2pcs-set_p_873.html
 
One interesting thing is that foam tires will perform better.
You could change nothing else and just swap to foams and see a reduced time.

I believe BSR and Sweeps are the go to foams. Foams can also be used with traction compounds to gain some insane acceleration/grip levels.
Thanks, yes, I follow along with the speed threads and try to soak up what I can and see how I can apply it to 132ft.
I'm going to run through these wheels, massive improvement over Hoons I used on previous Typhon, then dig into the foam world I think. I'm trying to be half way methodical:ROFLMAO: and see what the limiting factors are with each component.

One aspect of scale drag I see getting missed is how it is in the real world, it's not who has the biggest engine, it's who has the engine/suspension combo to get down a lane fastest under control. You cross center you lose. I asked once the RFK crew in DC, they drag weekly but the lanes are as wide as the track is long, if you are truly scale, then scale down the lane width and drive straight while driving fast, they told me to stick to bashing lol, hit a nerve.
So... I do 132ft against anything, run what you brung, 6ft wide lane. It's a different animal entirely and I think more realistic.

The MPH records you guys set, just insane!!! I can't even contemplate the scale version of the speeds ya'll are achieving but I'm betting it's only done in Utah at the Salt Flats. Would be interesting to delve into the land speed records and compare data where it's comparable in a scale fashion.
 
One aspect of scale drag I see getting missed is how it is in the real world, it's not who has the biggest engine, it's who has the engine/suspension combo to get down a lane fastest under control. You cross center you lose.

This is how we race. Suspension tuning is extremely important and often overlooked. But another thing that translates from the real world to the scale world is, you have to tune for the track/surface you're running on. We run no-prep, and the tracks are often parking lots. We do sweep down the track, but the surface is not prepped and it's often not perfectly smooth. Because of that, and because we'll often only run a track for one event, you can't tune your car perfectly unless you're only ever going to run on the same 132 feet every single time. So, a good ESC and/or Transmitter is equally as important here to pick up the slack. Being able to adjust your throttle curve and bring in 100% throttle at the same point consistently without spinning is a huge benefit. This is essentially the same as ignition/fuel tuning in the 1:1 world. Some guys will say "if you're good, you can do it with your finger on any transmitter," but funnily enough, those guys never win races.
 
If you're exclusively going to be running 132, ditch the Spektrum ESC and put in something else. A DRK160 or MonsterX both are great for drag and have the tuning options you need to hit the best ET you can...the MonsterX is probably the better solution for a Typhon, the DRK160 is really meant for no-prep 2wd cars. You could also get some significant gains by locking your diffs, but again, ONLY DO THIS if you are running this straight...it'll have negative consequences if you're just bashing around and cornering. As @LibertyMKiii said, foams will also make a pretty significant difference. If you want to maximize your gains, get soft compound. You'll burn through them relatively quickly, but that's the trade-off. Sweeps are the go-to for the guys running 1/8 4wd cars in my area. https://www.sweepracingusa.com/Swee...AM-TIRES-for-GT8-17mm-HEX-2pcs-set_p_873.html
Long term yes, I can see there are better options but I'm going to get there progressively. Currently I don't hate that all my cars have the same systems, all interchangeable, all the same batteries, all the same connectors etc. Hit the dirt course, hit the asphalt, hit the ramps, makes for a nice day of fun with the neighbors, use all my cars in a day and easy fixes for what's broken while waiting on a warranty claim.
Also there is the cost factor, guys pull em off new, JRC as well of course, plug and play you know what I mean? Spares on the shelf.
On the other hand, getting the most out of what comes with it is a fun challenge.
I appreciate the wheels recommendations.
My next build is already taking shape in my mind, and in my internet orders:LOL:
This is how we race. Suspension tuning is extremely important and often overlooked. But another thing that translates from the real world to the scale world is, you have to tune for the track/surface you're running on. We run no-prep, and the tracks are often parking lots. We do sweep down the track, but the surface is not prepped and it's often not perfectly smooth. Because of that, and because we'll often only run a track for one event, you can't tune your car perfectly unless you're only ever going to run on the same 132 feet every single time. So, a good ESC and/or Transmitter is equally as important here to pick up the slack. Being able to adjust your throttle curve and bring in 100% throttle at the same point consistently without spinning is a huge benefit. This is essentially the same as ignition/fuel tuning in the 1:1 world. Some guys will say "if you're good, you can do it with your finger on any transmitter," but funnily enough, those guys never win races.
Love it! Totally makes sense.
 
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