Vorteks Just ordered new diff and input gear, is this enough grease?

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vortekyteky

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Arrma RC's
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Hi everyone,

I just got my new 4s system along with a new servo and diff from Jenny's. Before I put the diff and input gear in, can you confirm there is enough grease on the differential and input gear/ring. I am talking about the stuff on the outside of the gear.

Thanks
Screenshot 2023-07-03 at 2.45.54 PM.png
 
I usually add the grease (plastic safe) to the ring and input gear after its assembled in the yoke. A couple globs should do. :cool:
ok, unfortunately I don't have any on me and 'local' hobby store is 50mins away. ok to run like this do you think?
This is mine I just did. Red-n-tacky. It'll sling off whats not needed?
The majority will get flung off the first time you hit the throttle, and the rest of it will get flung off over time, so I don't think it matters how much. Get some spread on all the gears and call it good.
thanks, I think ill just run as is after spreading
 
Hi everyone,

I just got my new 4s system along with a new servo and diff from Jenny's. Before I put the diff and input gear in, can you confirm there is enough grease on the differential and input gear/ring. I am talking about the stuff on the outside of the gear.

Thanks
View attachment 309133
Fwiw, I'd be more concerned about the input to ring gear mesh being right. Can always shim if needed. Also with 4s power, you might want to considered upgrading to metal yokes as they tend to flex, especially in the rear.
 
Hi everyone,

I just got my new 4s system along with a new servo and diff from Jenny's. Before I put the diff and input gear in, can you confirm there is enough grease on the differential and input gear/ring. I am talking about the stuff on the outside of the gear.

Thanks
View attachment 309133
If that is the grease that came from JennysRC, the OE grease, then wipe it off clean and use any Automotive type grease. The OE grease is very questionable IMHO. And it stinks like Pork fat. Probably what they use anyway. :giggle:

I always use my own grease. Even when my rig is new out the box. Grease is cheap.
I would place a bit more than in your pix. And too much will just sling off anyway. Overkill.
 
Fwiw, I'd be more concerned about the input to ring gear mesh being right. Can always shim if needed. Also with 4s power, you might want to considered upgrading to metal yokes as they tend to flex, especially in the rear.
how do I check the mesh? I think im going to set the punch all the way down to 1 on the esc, hopefully will save the parts. It doesn't really matter to me much, I don't do much jumping with the vorteks, mostly just smooth dirt, gravel and road
 
how do I check the mesh? I think im going to set the punch all the way down to 1 on the esc, hopefully will save the parts. It doesn't really matter to me much, I don't do much jumping with the vorteks, mostly just smooth dirt, gravel and road
Lowering the punch will definitely be easier on your drive train. Regarding the mesh, often the 4s diffs from Jenny's already comes with at least 1 shim, usually on the ring gear side but not always. With the yokes installed, you do not want side to side play where the ring gear moves back and forth against the input gear to tight or loose. EVERY DIFF IS DIFFERENT. You made need 1, 2 shims or none at all. The main thing is that the two gears marry together well without binding or slop. Should be very smooth when turning the gears.
 
Lowering the punch will definitely be easier on your drive train. Regarding the mesh, often the 4s diffs from Jenny's already comes with at least 1 shim, usually on the ring gear side but not always. With the yokes installed, you do not want side to side play where the ring gear moves back and forth against the input gear to tight or loose. EVERY DIFF IS DIFFERENT. You made need 1, 2 shims or none at all. The main thing is that the two gears marry together well without binding or slop. Should be very smooth when turning the gears.
Ok thanks a lot, the 3s diffs I ordered did not come with any shims but ill have a look
 
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