Kraton Kraton 6S - 4985SL 1650Kv - Major Heat Problems

[SrC]

Tight gear mesh, yeah. Very first thing to look at. If the case, highly suggest a motor tear down and inspect and lube. Preventative maintenance, especially if she was hot
But a larger pinion may be in order as well. If you have one handy test out the temps with it. Does your ESC have Data logging??? check the RPMs if possible. I am not familiar with that ESC. I know my sensored HW XR8+ has data logging.

Found something interesting when I pulled off the 16 Tooth pinion gear. The teeth are like worn and melted after like 30 total minutes of running. Something's gotta be funky with my setup. I've never seen a pinion gear have wear/damage like this.

View attachment 112082

Hard to say if the pinion was too tight by this picture. Perhaps so. Wear does looks deep into the pitch. ?‍ But the pinion was not centered well enough to the Spur. That is clearly visible. The center diff may also need to be shimmed so the spur wont slide left to right under load at the pinion. There may be some backlash in the Diff mounts. (Slop). I sometimes shim mine to the left or right depending, to get good pinion/spur alignment while shimming.
The stock Arrma pinions are not all that BTW. I have had some duds. excessive wear with minimal use. FWIW. I like Tekno Pinions. Saga as well. But I use whatever...the smaller Stock ones seem to get trashed quick IMHO.

 

[powerarrma]

just check my list i write before and you be ok,
chassie bends, shocks bends, and anoterthings is up 2 u.
You know if you have done some serious Crashes before.
If none
Then check my check list.
After this you can run smooth without any problems

Any fail off.
Contact the One you buy these things,
Maybe? there is something else then ?

Before you do this.
Make 100% shure you have 100% good rig and gear mesh please

I got 5 Kratons and 4 Talions with this set up run over 1 year without any problems .
I also got this set up in my new Mojave EXB cars.
Never any problem at all.

Check my checklist.
Do it right
After that ENJOY please

 

[SrC]

If you cant cooldown your motor enough buy 200$ on fans I don't get it. If a high powered fan from yeah racing or two cant make my motor cool enough Well the setup just doesn't work. Try a higher pinion and see how it goes but monitor the motor temps.

Its poop metal what brand this pinion is from?

Probably stock Arrma pinions. I've gotten duds before that looked like that. But usually the smaller ones, that I rarely use anyway.

Yeah throwing money at a problem( $$FANS/HS$$) doesn't always solve the real issue... of a poor setup to begin with. You are just masking the problem with a band-aid approach. Sure fans are a pre req. But not always the answer.

 

[Wraith405]

Tight gear mesh, yeah. Very first thing to look at. If the case, highly suggest a motor tear down and inspect and lube. Preventative maintenance, especially if she was hot
But a larger pinion may be in order as well. If you have one handy test out the temps with it. Does your ESC have Data logging??? check the RPMs if possible. I am not familiar with that ESC. I know my sensored HW XR8+ has data logging.

Hard to say if the pinion was too tight by this picture. Perhaps so. Wear does looks deep into the pitch. ?‍ But the pinion was not centered well enough to the Spur. That is clearly visible. The center diff may also need to be shimmed so the spur wont slide left to right under load at the pinion. There may be some backlash in the Diff mounts. (Slop). I sometimes shim mine to the left or right depending, to get good pinion/spur alignment while shimming.
The stock Arrma pinions are not all that BTW. I have had some duds. excessive wear with minimal use. FWIW. I like Tekno Pinions. Saga as well. But I use whatever...the smaller Stock ones seem to get trashed quick IMHO.

Interesting. I pulled the center diff and checked it and the bearings and it's nice and tight. Fits snug into the center braces. I've got the V4 motor mount with the Hot Racing center diff brace. And then the normal V4 plastic cap to hold everything down.

However, it looks like I can't get the new 18T pinion on quite all the way centered on the center diff. To get the pinion centered on the Spur, the grub screw is too far down into the thing I can't get my screwdriver into it. I tried pulling the pinion off and remounting it backwards, but the motor shaft isn't quite long enough for that work. I'm using a standard ProTek Mod1 18T pinion. Not sure how to get this centered up though, I can't really move the center diff at all.

 

[SrC]

How far off is the pinion? Are you sure there is no play at the center diff for using a shim?
I see you have covered your bases however.
As long as the pinion can mate across the spur without overlapping (hanging off the spur), Then its as as good as it can get. ?‍ Pinion shanks from different brands and motor shaft lengths vary at times. Sometimes by several mm's.

Edit: sometimes when rebuilding the motor, its easy to replace the armature shims improperly, the armature may not extend enough. Just playing devils advocate here. Been there. Food for thought. BTW is there any motor shaft end play? Just make a quick check. Try pulling/pushing on the shaft. There shouldn't be any.

 

[powerarrma]

You need new chassie

Buy the 7075 one

 

[Stokez]

Interesting. I pulled the center diff and checked it and the bearings and it's nice and tight. Fits snug into the center braces. I've got the V4 motor mount with the Hot Racing center diff brace. And then the normal V4 plastic cap to hold everything down.

However, it looks like I can't get the new 18T pinion on quite all the way centered on the center diff. To get the pinion centered on the Spur, the grub screw is too far down into the thing I can't get my screwdriver into it. I tried pulling the pinion off and remounting it backwards, but the motor shaft isn't quite long enough for that work. I'm using a standard ProTek Mod1 18T pinion. Not sure how to get this centered up though, I can't really move the center diff at all.

None of my kraton pinions are centered on the spur. Should be fine . Just get the pinion butted up against the motor shaft sleeve and tighten it up.

 

[slick2500]

Probably stock Arrma pinions. I've gotten duds before that looked like that. But usually the smaller ones, that I rarely use anyway.

Yeah throwing money at a problem( $$FANS/HS$$) doesn't always solve the real issue... of a poor setup to begin with. You are just masking the problem with a band-aid approach. Sure fans are a pre req. But not always the answer.

Back in the V2 days the Arrma pinions were notorious for doing this. I only run Robinson Racing absolute hardened pinions now.

 

[SrC]

I have done that numerous times, but only to plastic spur gears.

No one has ever complained about anything RRP. I have RRP pinions and spurs that are over 20 years old.

 

[Adawg]

I run the same setup and I’ve tried all pinions from 15-20 and I can tell you that all the pinions create a ton of heat. 20 and 19 was the worst. I run a heat sink and 12v fan. Also my max6 would thermal after 5 minutes but I also added a 12v fan and never had a problem with either ever again. Motor stays between 140-150

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Hey guys,

Just got done with the first 15 minute full throttle run of my Kraton 6S with the Hobbywing Max 6 and 4985SL motor. I don't currently have a heatsink or fan on, but the ambient temp is around 55 F with a nice breeze. The surface was dirt, short dead winter grass, and concrete.

When I got done, I checked the motor and got 176 F degrees. That seems really high to me for this big of a motor and that short of a run. The ESC wasn't anywhere near that, sitting at around 110 F, but the capacitors were pretty hot. Now, I am running a fairly low end gearing and setup for the Kraton and I don't think I should be having these type of problems. I'm running 6S with the 16 Tooth pinion and stock spur gear. Diff oils are at 30k front and back and 300k Center. All the wheel and diff bearings are new, and it rolls really easy and smooth without the motor in it. I'm running the larger dBoots Backflips tires from the Outcast 6S.

The truck is maybe a hair faster than stock, though it certainly much more torque. There does seem be quite a bit of rolling resistance with the motor installed, but as far as I can tell the drag brake is off. I figured it was just the larger magnets in the motor not wanting to spin.

ESC Settings are normal:

Punch is set at 3
Drag Brake is off
Timing is at 0%

Do I really have to have a heatsink with just the 16 Tooth pinion? Could I have bad motor bearings maybe? Should I contact Hobbywing support?

Like the other guys said you are under-geared. I run 22/46 M2C chassis with
Belted proline badlands with that same exact motor and esc in my Kraton. That’s now while it’s cool. I have to go back to a 20 when it’s summer. I do have fans. That motor is strong ? is my point lol??