Kraton Kraton 6s race setup questions

[PrerunninF150]

Was thinking of taking the Kraton down to the local track and trying out my skills. Just wondering if anyone had some setup suggestions. I know bashing and track setups are different. I was thinking thinner fluid in the diffs 15/500/30 I'm at 30/500/50 at the moment. I might lighten the center but its on a fresh rebuild and don't feel like taking it all apart again. I'm gonna run 4s instead of 6s. Shocks are 80wt with m2c pistons and handle great at my bash spot. I know tires are an important item but I am gonna run the backflips and see if I like track running before I splurge on tires. I haven't seen the current track layout but its a pretty standard So Cal 1/8 track.

 

[Radiocontrolsoul]

Do the two things you don’t want to do, lighten the center waaay up and get small pin tires

 

[PrerunninF150]

Haha yeah I figured that would be the case.

 

[KratonBuilder]

Bring your tools and assess the tables they provide. Organize the tools into a Ziplock before you leave, along with some spare parts, and a set of pinions. As many batteries as possible.

Bring water and a snack or two fr I mean it

As far as setup goes, I mean you can get super into it or not it's up to you. You're going 4s in a hefty ol' boy which means you'll have to gear up around 15t for long straights. Diff fluids are tricky, because your ideal will vary by track condition, tire type, and your driving style. Most guys go with a thick center diff fluid like 100k but if you're hitting a hot dirt track you might want to loosen it up and put thicker fluid up front. Front 10k, center 5k and rear 3k.

You could even align the truck if you're all shimmed up. Bookmarked this not too long ago so here u go

-1 to -1.5 degree tow out front, -1 to -1.5 degree camber front. Best steering and cornering for a race truggy.

+2 degree tow in rear (if that's adjustable) If not most are already +2 degree. -1 to -2 degree camber. Best acceleration and cornering for a race truggy.

 

[Jchammbone]

Gotta remember... slower is faster...
You can't turn the truck in the air, so you have prepare the landing after a jump...
If you get crazy air on a jump before a turn and slam into a tube and need to be marshaled you are losing time.

As far as setup goes... i would imagine you will need to raise the collars of the shock springs to get the suspension arms level to the ground (parallel) .
All i got that hasn't been mentioned.

 

[Johnny b]

Bring this stuff to the track with you. Best to be prepared.

 

[SrC]

It's all about the tires first and foremost with track running.
Best to buy a set of "zero offset" PL (whatever brand) Track Pin or Bar tires of some type and compound, what the other guys are running there. Ask.
Don't waste your time and the whole day with the Stocker or any MT tires on the track.
Trust me on this.
500k at the center diff is also NG. Way too thick. Good to have a spare diff to drop in just for the track. 10-15k center is where I would start.
Bear in mind that most 1/8 truggies and buggies at most tracks are geared to only 30-35mph max. And 4s is the rule and the limit. This is your guide to best lap times. Drop your Punch control down lower if you are having difficulty. Adjust your Steering Dual rate if you tend to Oversteer alot. You probably will. The rest is practice and very fine chassis adjustments. It can take days to dial in to a track to have PB lap times that are well enough to compete. Even track conditions will vary over the course of a day. Finding the best lines to drive is key. But even the Blue groove (best lines) will change. Need to adapt your driving technique.

 

[PrerunninF150]

Thanks for the solid input guys. Looks like I have tires and diff service to look forward to. Any budget tire options out there that are not total trash?

 

[SrC]

Duratrax was a great option, just that recently they are no more a company brand of HH. Proline was bought by HH .
There is Proline, AKA, and JConcepts. They seem to be the top race sponsored brands .
Hard to find good racing tires for cheap. Its a Racing thing. They are all expensive. Much goes into their various compounds, testing and all.
Look for a sale.
I am sure there are other brands that "might" work for you.
I would ask at the track where you plan on going. There are usually one or 2 tires that work best. Favorites on that specific track with those getting best lap times. The Regular guys there.
It sucks to buy new track tires that just don't hook up. Been there. There are so many types of track surfaces. Small and some larger. Some more technical than others etc. Some with larger sweepers etc. A tire can make you are break you on any given track.
Prepping/ trimming the treads with a set of tires is also a thing to make them softer and bite better or less as desired. Its trial and error.